Part II: The Body (grey)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 st then 2 in the next st (30)
6-9) 1 sc in each st for 4 rows
10) 1 sc in the next 4 st then 2 in the next st (36)
11) 1 sc in each st for 1 row
12) 1 sc in the next 5 st then 2 in the next st (42)
13-14) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows
15) 1 sc in the next 6 st then 2 in the next st (48)
16-19) 1 sc in each st for 4 rows
20) 1 sc in the next 6 st then 2 tog (42)
21) 1 sc in the next 5 st then 2 tog (36)
22) 1 sc in the next 4 st then 2 tog (30)
23) 1 sc in the next 3 st then 2 tog (24)
24) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 tog (18)
25) 1 sc in the next st then 2 tog (12)
26) 1 sc in the next 2 st then 2 tog (9)
27) 2 tog then f/o,
weave in and out of the remaining sts and close the gap –leave a really long thread for sewing

Part III. The Feet (start with blue)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5) 1 sc in the next 3 sts then 2 in the next st (30)
6) 1 sc in the next 4 sts then 2 in the next st (36) – change colour on last st (grey)
7) 1 sc in the next 5 sts then 2 in the next st (42)
8-9) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows
10) 1 sc in the next 5 sts, then 2 tog (36)
11) 1 sc in the next 4 sts, then 2 tog (30)
12) 2 tog x 6, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (24)
13) 2 tog x 4, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (20)
14) 2 tog x 2, then 1 sc in each sc in each of the remaining sts (18)
15) 1 sc in the next 4 sts, then 2 tog (15)
16-19) 1 sc in each st for 4  rows  – stuff the foot while making the rows
Crochet the sides of the leg together , f/o, and leave a thread for sewing

Part IV: The Arms (grey)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5-7) 1 sc in each st for 3 rows
8) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 tog (18)
9) 1 sc in each st for 1 row
10) 1 sc in the next 7 sts then 2 tog (16)
11-21) 1 sc in each st for 11 rows  –  stuff hand, and the arm lightly
f/o and leave a long thread for sewing.

Part V: The Ears (grey)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4) 1 sc in the next 2 sts then 2 in the next st (24)
5-8) 1 sc in each st for 4 rows
f/o and leave a long thread for sewing.

Part VI: The Tail (grey)
1) Magic circle (6)
2) 2 sc in each st (12)
3) 1 sc then 2 in the next st (18)
4-5) 1 sc in each st for 2 rows
f/o and leave a long thread for sewing.
Part VII: Assemble the Bedbugbear!
Part VIII:  If you prefer, you can add the details (scars) by sewing them on.
Sleep well!
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

HOCICO
En beige
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 4. a la 6.-Se tejen los (18mp)
Hilera 7.-*2mp,1aum*repetir en todo (24mp)
Hilera 8 a la 10.-Se tejen los (24mp)
Rellenar y dejar una hebra larga para coser

Parte inferior del Hocico
En beige
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (I2mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum*repetir en todo (24mp)
Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum*repetir en todo (30mp)
Doblar a la mitad y coser

Lengua
En rosa
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)

Nariz
En café
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum*repetir (9mp)

Ojos (x2)
En Blanco
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (9mp)
En negro
Aro deslizado de (5mp) y hacer con estambre 2 lineas para darle una bonita expresión

Orejas (x2)
En café
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-*6 aumentos  (12mp)
Picos para simular el pelo

Pico 1
En café (x2)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (4mp)
Hilera 2.-1aum,2mp,1aum (6mp)
Hilera 3 y 4.-Se tejen los (6mp)
Hilera 5.-1aum, 4mp,1aum (8mp)
Hilera 6 y 7.-Se tejen los (8mp)
Aplastar la pieza y hacer 4mp tejiendo las 2 partes

Pico 2
En cafe (x1)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (4mp)
Hilera 2.-1aum, 2mp,1aum (6mp)
Hilera 3  a la 7.-Se tejen los (6mp)
Aplastar la pieza y hacer 3mp tejiendo las 2 partes.

Pico 3
En café (x4)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (4mp)
Hilera 2.-1aum, 2mp,1aum (6mp)
Hilera 3  a la 4-Se tejen los (6mp)
Aplastar la pieza y hacer 3mp tejiendo las 2 partes.

PANZA
En beige
Hacer una cadena de 19 y se trabaja por filas
F1 a la F8.-Se tejen los (19mp)
F9.-2dism, 10mp,2dism (14mp)
F10.-Se tejen los (14mp)
F11.-1dism,10mp,1dism (12mp)
F12 y F13.-Se tejen los (12mp)
F14.-1dism,8mp,1dism (10mp)
F15 y F16.- Se tejen los (10mp)
F17.-1dism,6mp,1dism (8mp)
F18.-1dism,4mp,1dism (6mp)
F19.-1dism,2mp,1dism (4mp)
F20.-2disminuciones
Hacer 1mp en todo alrededor

PATAS TRASERAS (X2)
En café
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir en todo (24mp)
Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir en todo (30mp)
Hilera 6 a la 10.-Se tejen los (30mp)
Hilera 11.-*3mp,1dism*repetir en todo (24mp)
Hilera 12 y 13.-Se tejen los (24mp)
Hilera 14.-*2mp, 1dism*repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 15 y 16.-Se tejen los (18mp)
Hilera 17.-*3mp,1dism*repetir en todo (15mp)Hilera 18 s la 20.-Se tejen los (15mp)

PIES (x2)
En café
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir en todo (24mp)
Hilera 5 a la 8.-Se tejen los (24mp)
Hilera 9.-*2mp,1dism*repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera10 a la 13.-Se tejen los (18mp)
Hilera 14.-*1mp,1dism*repetir en todo (12mp)
Rellenar
Hilera 15.-Se tejen los (12mp)
Hilera 16.-6 disminuciones
Cerrar

GARRAS (X12)
En beige
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (3mp)
Hilera 2.-Se tejen (3mp)
Hilera 3.-3 aumentos (6mp)

COLA
En café
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 4 a la 5.-Se tejen los (18mp)
Hilera 6.-*3mp,1dism*repetir en todo (15mp)
Rellenar y coser al cuerpo

BRAZOS (x2)
En café
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
HIlera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum*repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 4 a la 15.-Se tejen los (18mp)
Hilera 16.-*3mp,1dism* repetir en todo (15mp)
Ir rellenando
Hilera 17 a la 20.-Se tejen los (15mp)
Hilera 21.-*3mp,1dism*repetir (12mp)
Hilera 22.-Se tejen los (12mp)
Hilera 23.-6 disminuciones
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas

Abbreviations
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl-st – slip-stitch
DEC – decrease
inc – increase
double.inc – we knit 3sc in one loop

Feet (2 parts)
We dial 6ch, continue from the second loop
1st row – 4sc, double.inc, continue along the second side of the chain from ch, 3sc, inc -12sc
2nd row – inc, 3sc, 3inc, 4sc, 2inc = 18sc – the beginning of the row will shift to 1sc
3-5 rows – 18sc
6 row – 4sc, 4DEC, 4sc, DEC -13sc
7 row – 5sc, DEC, 6sc -12sc
8-13 rows – 12sc
We begin to fill the part with holofiber – we fill the sock and the heel. Insert the cotter pin between 12 and 13 rows and continue to fill the part – the degree of packing is dense, but without stretching the canvas. For the paws, I use a 20mm T-pin and a 9mm washer (without disc).Filling the parts and inserting the cotter pin, pay attention to the fact that the right and left legs.
14 row – 6dec
Add filler and tighten the hole with a needle, fasten and hide the thread inside the foot.

Pens (2 parts)
1 row – 6sc into magic ring
2 row – 6inc = 12sc
3-5 rows – 12sc
6 row – DEC, 10sc = 11sc
7 row – DEC, 9sc = 10sc
8-16 rows – 10sc
We begin to form a foot – first we stuff a palm (average degree of stuffing). Take fluffy wire dec, cut off the double length of the foot and fold the wire in half. For the paws, I use a 20mm T-pin and a 9mm washer (without disc).We withdraw the cotter pin between the 15th and 16th rows (pay attention to the right and left sides) and insert the wire frame into the foot. If you wish, you can add more holofiber, but I am limited only to stuffing my palms.

Torso (1 piece)
1 row – 6sc into magic ring
2 row – 6inc = 12sc
3 row – (1sc, 1inc) x6 = 18sc
4-7 rows – 18sc
8 row – (2sc, 1inc) x6 = 24sc mark the first and fourth increments with a marker (places for joining the handles to the body)
9-10 rows – 24sc
11 row – (3sc, 1inc) x6 = 30sc
12 row – 30sc
13 row – (4sc, 1inc) x6 = 36sc
Rates 14-17 – 36sc
At this stage of knitting, you need to insert a cotter pin with a disk for attaching the head, removing the tip cotter pin in the middle of the initial ring of amigurumi. I use a 28mm T-pin and 15mm washer (without disc)Now you need to attach the handles to the body in the places noted earlier. From the torso I used a 9mm washer without a disc.Please note that when twisting the cotter pin, the resulting rings must beabut against a washerdec, not a disk (when using it) or a knitted fabric.
18 row – (4sc, 1dec) x6 = 30sc
19th row – 30sc, mark with a marker the places for joining the legs to the body between 6 and 7 sc and 21 and 22 sc.
The photo shows how the marker should be located for attaching the legs. If you have a description it turns out to be biased, correct it according to your detail.
20 row – (3sc, 1dec) x6 = 24sc
21 row – 24sc
22 row – (2sc, 1dec) x6 = 18sc
We fix the legs to the body in the places marked in the 17th row. From the torso side I used
9mm washer without disc.
We fill the part with holofiber, the degree of packing is dense, but without stretching the canvas. Since the animal we get is not of standard proportions, a large head can outweigh, and the toy will fall. To avoid this, you can weight the body and add metal granulate or fishing weights to the belly (just be sure to put them in an embroidered bag or bag).
23 row – (1sc, 1dec) x6 = 12sc
24 row – 6dec = 6sc
Add filler. Cut the thread, tighten the hole, fasten and cut the thread, leaving the end is about 30-50 cm long (we will knit the tail).

Tail
1 row – with the help of a needle we bring the end of the thread between approximately 18 and 19 rows and pick up on the body 6sc (pay attention to the symmetry of its location relative to legs),
1ch, turn
2 row – DEC, 2, DEC, 1ch, turn
3 row – 2DEC, 1ch, turn
4th row – DEC, gently sew the tip of the tail to the torso.
If desired, you can type a small circle on the body and tie the tail in the form of a ball (for a bunny) or make a big fox.

Ears (2 parts)
The part is knitted in rotary rows.
1 row – 6sc into magic ring, 1ch, turn
2 row – (1sc, 1inc) x3, 1ch, turn
3 row – (2sc, 1inc) x3, 1ch, rotation
4 row – (3sc, 1inc) x3, 1ch, turn
5 row – 15sc, 1ch, turn
6 row – 15sl-st
Fasten and cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.

Muzzle (1 piece)
We dial 6ch, continue from the second loop
1 row – 4, double.inc, continue along the second side of the chain of ch, 3, inc = 12sc
2nd row – inc, 3, 3inc, 4, 2inc = 18sc – the beginning of the row will shift to 1sc
3-4 rows – 18sc
5 row – (2sc, 1inc) x6 = 24sc
Fasten and cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.

Head (1 piece)
1 row – 6sc into magic ring
2 row – 6inc = 12sc
3 row – (1sc, 1inc) x6 = 18sc
4 row – (2sc, 1inc) x6 = 24sc
5 row – (3sc, 1inc) x6 = 30sc
6 row – (4sc, 1inc) x6 = 36sc
7 row – (5sc, 1inc) x6 = 42sc
8 row – (6sc, 1inc) x6 = 48sc
9 row – (7sc, 1inc) x6 = 54sc
10 row – (8sc, 1inc) x6 = 60sc
11 row – (9sc, 1inc) x6 = 66sc
12-25 rows – 66sc
Do not be afraid of the size of your head, the photo shows the ratio of the head and body.
26 row – (9sc, 1dec) x6 = 60sc
27 row – (8sc, 1dec) x6 = 54sc
28 row – (7sc, 1dec) x6 = 48sc
29 row – (6sc, 1dec) x6 = 42sc
30 row – (5sc, 1dec) x6 = 36sc
31 row – (4sc, 1dec) x6 = 30sc
We fasten the head to the body. From the side of the head, I use a 9mm washer and a disc with a diameter of 30mm. This is necessary so that the head does not fall over on its side (in the photo I showed the ratio upper torso and disc). Frankly, I did not try to sew such a big head to a small body. You may have to sew the head to the body (like a button) and insert it into the “bottom” of the head a circle cut out of plastic with a diameter of about 30 mm and then fill tightly holofiber.
To those who fasten their heads with a cotter pin, I remind you that the bent ends must abut in the wasdec, not in the drive.
32 row – (3sc, 1dec) x6 = 24sc
33 row – (2sc, 1dec) x6 = 18sc
34 row – (1sc, 1dec) x6 = 12sc
We fill the head with holofiber, the degree of stuffing is average (we will perform the tightening).The last row is not tied to the complete design of all the hooks and sewing the eye.
35 row – 6dec

Muzzle decoration
In the lower part of the head we fasten the muzzle with pins and begin to sew it, adding inside holofiber.
Pay attention, if it is good to stretch the edge of the muzzle during sewing, then the seam will be not very noticeable even when working with smooth yarn.
Now let’s start embroidering the nose. I usually place it on top of the muzzle.After the spout is ready, do not cut the thread, we need it to indicate mouth after performing tightening.

Eye design
1. Pins indicate the location of the eyes.
2. We take a needle and a thread for making tightenings (I usually take a thread 50-60 cm long, so that is enough and for tightening and sewing on the eye). We fix the thread at the mark of one of the eyes, further introducing the needle at the location of one eye, display it at the mark of the other, tighten (fix Utyazhkdec, but without fanaticism), we repeat one more time.
3. Now you need to slightly “drown” the eyes. To do this, insert the needle into the deepening of the eye and withdraw it on the back of the head (make sure that the needle comes out between the loops without grabbing the strings, then the bear will not have a cavity at the back of the head). We return the needle back through the same hole on the back of the head. Repeat the same for the second eye.
4. We designate a mouth. The needle from one eye is displayed in the lower part of the muzzle in the middle under nose and through the upper point of the middle of the muzzle (just under the nose) we return it to another eye. We repeat.
5. We sink the muzzle. The needle from the eye is again inserted into the lower part of the muzzle in the middle and through the upper middle (under the spout) we bring to the back of the head, tighten and return back to eye area. Sew on the eyes.
6. The left thread of black embroider mouth. We bring all the strings to the crown and fix them well there. If the bear on the back of the head at the place of the hooks the filler “fell”; it can be added through the crown. Now we tie the remaining row of the head, tighten the hole with a needle and hide the thread.
Sewing on the ears. Before sewing on the ears, try on them, try different positions (from this depends on the character and mood of the bear).
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Materials
• 4 ply 100% cotton yarn (I used scheepjes catona yarn) – or any yarn of your choice in brown, grey, off white, green and mini green
• You will also need some dark grey yarn for the arrows on the tummy
• 2,20 mm crochet hook (or hook that is appropriate for the yarn you’re sing)
• Black embreidery thread
• Stuffing
• Scissors
• Sew needle and pins
• Stitch markers
• 5 mm safety eyes for totoro beanie (alternatively, you can use felt circles or embroider the eyes)
• Size: Your Totoro bear will be around 13,5 mm tall (including beanie) if using similar materials.

Head (in brown yarn)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3. (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4. (inc, 2 sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5. (inc, 3 sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6. (inc, 4 sc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7. (inc, 5 sc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 8. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 9. (inc, 6 sc) x 6 (48)
Rnd 10-15. 48 sc- 6 rnds (48)
Rnd 16. (dec, 6 sc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 17. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 18. (dec, 5 sc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 19. (dec, 4 sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 20. (dec, 3 sc) x 6 (24)
Begin to stuff head and continue to stuff as you continue
Rnd 21. FLO 24 sc
Change to grey yarn, you can cut brown yarn
We will continue now to work on the body.
Rnd 22. (inc, 3 sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 23. (inc, 4 sc) x 6 (36)
The next few rnds we will be switching between grey and off white colour (as indicated in the respective colours) yarns to make the tummy patch.
Rnd 24. 14 sc, 4 sc, 18 sc (36)
Rnd 25. 12 sc, 8 sc, 16 sc (36)
Rnd 26. 11 sc, 10 sc, 15 sc (36)
You can ambroider on the eyes at this stage (see next for further instruction)
Guide for embroidering the sleep eyes
Sew eyes on rnd 14, using the white belly patch as an indication of where the front of the face should be. Sleepy eyes should be sewn between rnd 14 and 15, 3 sts wide, 4 sts apart. See pictures A-E on the right.
We have completed the head part of the amigurumi bear pattern. Now let’s crochet the body part.

Continuing With Body
Rnd 27. inc, 5 sc, inc, 4 sc,(off white sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 3 sc), 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc (42)
Rnd 28-29. 13 sc,(off white 13 sc), 16 sc- 2 rnds (42)
Rnd 30. inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc,(off white sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc), sc (inc, 6sc) x 2 (48)
Rnd 31. 15 sc, (off white 16 sc), 17 sc (48)
Rnd 32. dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, (off white sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc), sc, (dec, 6 sc) x 2 (42)
Rnd 33. (dec, 5 sc) x 2, (off white dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc), 2 sc, (dec, 5 sc) x 2 (36)
Rnd 34. 12 sc, (off white 10 sc), 14 sc (36)
You can now cut the off white yarn and continue working on the rest of the body in grey yarn.
Rnd 35. (dec, 4 sc) x 6 (30)
Stuff the body firmly and continue to stuff as you continue
Rnd 36. (dec, 3 sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 37. (dec, 2 sc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 38. (dec, sc) x 6 (12)
Rnd 39. dec x 6 (6)
Fasten off and cut yarn leaving a small yarn tail. Close the hole by weaving the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pulling tight. Use dark grey yarn to sew three little arrows on the tummy area (on rnd 27).
Let’s crochet the amigurumi bear scarf. After the scarf is complete, let’s crochet the arms.

Scarf For Totoro Bear
(In mint green colour)
Ch 60. Beginning from the third chain from the hook, hdc 58, fasten off and then weave in the loose ends.

Arms (make 2)
(Start in brown yarn)
Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. (inc, 1 sc) x 2, inc (8)
Rnd 3. 8 sc (8) Change to grey yarn
Rnd 4-8. 8 sc- 5 rnds (8)
Stuff arm slightl. Fold the arm in half and 4 sc through both layers of the opening to close, leave yarn tail to sew.
Let’s crochet the legs and muzzle of the amigurumi totoro bear pattern.

Leg (make 2)
(Start in grey yarn)
Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. (inc) x 5 (10)
Rnd 3. (inc, sc) x 5 (15)
Rnd 4. (inc, 2 sc) x 5 (20)
Rnd 5. 20 sc (20)
Rnd 6. 6 sc, dec, sc, 2 dec, sc, dec, 4 sc (16)
Rnd 7. 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14)
Rnd 8. 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc (12)
Rnd 9. change to brown yarn, BLO 12 sc (12)
Rnd 10-11. 12 sc – 2 rounds (12)
Rnd 12. (dec, 2 sc)x 3 (9)
Rnd 13. (dec, sc) x 3 (6)
Stuff the base of the foot and fasten off. Close the hole by weaving the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pulling tight. leave a long yarn tail for sewing to body.

Bear Muzzle
(In off white yarn)
Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. inc x 5 (10)
Rnd 3. (inc, 4 sc) x 2 (12)
Invisible fasten off, and leave yarn tail to sew to head. Sew a triangular shaped nose patch onto muzzle. The nose should be three sts wide at the top.
Let’s crochet the beanie of the amigurumi totoro bear pattern.

Totoro Beanie
(In grey yarn)
Rnd 1. MR 6 sc (6)
Rnd 2. inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3. (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4. (inc, 2 sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5. (inc, 3 sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6. (inc, 4 sc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7. (inc, 5 sc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 8. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 9. 13 sc, ch 10, skip 7 sts, 5 sc, 10 ch, skip 7 sts, 10 sc (48)
Rnd 10. 13 dc, 10 sc (on the top loops of the ch10), 5dc, 10 sc (on the top loops of the other ch 10), 10 dc (48)
Rnd 11. dc 48, slst to the first st (48)
Rnd 12-13. ch 1, then (fpdc * in the first st, then bpdc* in next st) x 24, slst in first st – 2rnds (48)
Refer to photos on the right to see where to insert hook for the first fpdc.
Fasten off and cut yarn, then weave in the yarn ends (48)

Totoro Ears
(in grey yarn)-make two
Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. (inc, 1 sc) x 2, inc (8)
Rnd 3-4. 8 sc – 2 rnds (8)
Rnd 5. (inc, 3 sc) x 2 (10)
Rnd 6. (dec, 3 sc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 7. (dec, sc) x 2, dec (5)
Rnd 8. 5 sc (5) Stuff ears lightly. Fasten off and leave yarn tail. Sew ears 2 st apart, and between rnds 3-5 (see photo on right)

Eye Patches For Totoro
(In off white yarn) – make two
Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. (inc) x 5 (10)
Invisible fasten off, and leave yarn tail to sew to beanie. Insert safety eyes in the middle of the eye patches and then poke the eyes through at the front of the beanie (the ear holes indicate the front of the beanie), in-between rnd 5-6 of the beanie, 8 sts apart (the eye patches will look around 3 to 4 sts apart). Sew around the eye patches to secure to beanie.

Leaf For Totoro Beanie
(In green yarn)
Ch 6, beginning from second chain from hook: 1 sc, 1 hdc, (1 dc, 1tr), 1 dc, 1 hdc, then continuing on other side of chain, 1 hdc, 1 dc, (1 tr, 1 dc), 1 hdc, 1 sc, slst to first st (12)
Invisible fasten off, cut yarn, leaving a yarn tail. Sew the leaf onto rnd one of the beanie.
Embroider nose between eye patches on rnd 5-6, and a small line for the mouth between rnd 7-8.
Let’s crochet the ears and tail of the amigurumi bear.

Bear Ears
(In brown yarn)-make two
Rnd 1. MR 5 sc (5)
Rnd 2. (inc) x 5 (10)
Rnd 3. (inc, sc) x 5 (15)
Rnd 4. 15 sc (15)
Fasten off and leave yarn tail for sewing to head.
Note: To make sure that the beanie fits on the head, it is recommended to make the beanie before sewing the ears on, so that you can pin the ears onto the head where the ear holes on the beanie are, prior to sewing on.

Bear Tail
(In brown yarn)
Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. (inc, 1 sc) x 2, inc (8)
Rnd 3. 8 sc (8)
Rnd 4. (dec, sc) x 2, dec(5)
Stuff tail lightly, fasten off, and leave a yarn tail for sewing to body. Sew tail in the middle of the back of the body, rnds 8-9 from the bottom.

Assembly
Ears:
Pinch ears together slightly, (not too much or it may not fit into the ear holes on the beanie) before sewing onto head. Put the beanie on the bear pin the ears place where the ear holes are, prior to sewing.

Muzzle:
Sew the muzzle onto the face – the top of the muzzle should be on rnd 14, and be positioned in-between the eyes.
Arms:
Sew arms facing forward, in the middle of the side the body, between rnds 23 and 26.
Leg:
The top of the leg should be between rnds 29-30. Sew the foot behind the tummy patch, the angle of the foot should follow the curve of the white tummy patch.

Scarf:
Tie the scarf once around the neck, and push the sides down around neck.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Abbreviations
Rnd: Round
MR: Magic ring
Ch: Chain
Sc: Single crochet
Inc: Increase
Dec: Decrease
Slst: Slip stitch

Legs and body
Legs (Make 2)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR [6]
Rnd 2. (inc)* [12]
Rnd 3-17. 12 sc [12]
Rnd 18. take the white yarn, 12 sc [12]
Rnd 19. take the yellow yarn, 12 sc [12]
Rnd 20. take the white yarn, 12 sc [12]
Stuff firmly.
Fasten off the first leg.
Crochet the second leg in the same way, but after rnd 20 don’t cut the yarn.
Keep the stitch marker in the same place.

Body
Rnd 21. take the yellow yarn, continue 6 sc on the second leg.
Make a ch 6 and join to the first leg with 1 sc, 11 sc on remaining stitches of the first leg, 6 sc (in ch 6), 6 sc on the second leg [36]
The beginning of the round is on the right side of the body.
Rnd 22. take the white yarn, 6 sc, 6 sc on the other side of the ch, 5 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc [38]
Rnd 23. take the yellow yarn, 6 sc (1sc,inc)*3, 26 sc [41]
Rnd 24. take the white yarn, 41 sc [41]
Rnd 25. take the yellow yarn, 6 sc, (inc,2sc)*3, 26 sc [44]
Rnd 26. take the white yarn, 44 sc [44]
Rnd 27. take the yellow yarn, 44 sc [44]
In Rnd 28, take the white yarn.
Rnd 28. 44 sc [44]
Rnd 29. BLO- 44 sc [44]
Rnd 30. 44 sc [44]
In Rnd 31, take the grey yarn and keep this color.
Rnd 31. (dec,20sc)* [42]
Rnd 32. 42 sc [42]
Rnd 33. 10 sc, (dec,2sc)*2, 24 sc [40]
Rnd 34. (dec,18sc)* [38]
Rnd 35. 38 sc [38]
Stuff firmly and continue to stuff as you go along with your work.
Rnd 36. (dec,17sc)* [36]
Rnd 37. (dec,4sc)* [30]
Rnd 38. 30 sc [30]
Rnd 39. (dec,3sc)* [24]
Rnd 40. 24 sc [24]
Rnd 41. (dec,2sc)* [18]
Rnd 42. 18 sc [18]
Fasten off.
For the belt, take the orange thread and wrap it around the front strand of the sc of rnd 29.

Arms (Make 2)
In grey.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR [6]
Rnd 2. (inc)* [12]
Rnd 3-5. 12 sc [12]
Rnd 6. (4sc,dec)* [10]
Rnd 7-20. 10 sc [10]
Fold and crochet 5 sc through both sides to close.
Fasten off and leave a long thread for assembling.
Sew the arms on the body between rnds 41 and 42.

Head
Start with grey yarn:
Rnd 1. MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2. (inc)* [12]
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)* [18]
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)* [24]
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)* [30]
Rnd 6. (2sc,inc,2sc)* [36]
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)* [42]
Rnd 8. 42 sc [42]
Rnd 9. (3sc,inc,3sc)* [48]
Rnd 10-15. 48 sc [48]
Rnd 16. (7sc,inc)* [54]
In Rnd 17, take with yarn.
Rnd 17-21. 54 sc [54]
Rnd 22. (4sc,dec)* [45]
Rnd 23. (3sc,dec)* [36]
Rnd 24. (2sc,dec,2sc)* [30]
Rnd 25. (3sc,dec)* [24]
Rnd 26. (2sc,dec)* [18]
Fasten off.
Insert the 7 mm safety eyes between Rnds 13 and 14 with 6 stitches apart.
Embroider the eyelashes and eyebrows with black thread.

Ears (Make 2)
In grey:
Rnd 1. MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)* [9]
Rnd 3. (2sc,inc)* [12]
Rnd 4. (3sc,inc)* [15]
Rnd 5. (2sc,inc,2sc)* [18]
Rnd 6. (5sc,inc)* [21]
Fasten off and leave a long thread for sewing. Sew the ears on the top of the head between Rnds 3 and 11 with 6 stitches apart (at the back).

Muzzle
In grey:
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR [6]
Rnd 2. (inc)* [12]
Rnd 3. (3sc,inc)* [15]
Rnd 4-5. 15 sc [15], 1 slst.
Fasten off and leave a long thread for sewing.
Embroider the nose with black thread.

Tail
Start with white yarn:
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR [6]
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)* [9]
Rnd 3. (2sc,inc)* [12]
Rnd 4. (3sc,inc)* [15]
Rnd 5. (2sc,inc,2sc)* [18]
In Rnd 6, take the grey yarn and continue with this color.
Rnd 6-10. 18 sc [18]
Rnd 11. (2sc,dec,2sc)* [15]
Rnd 12. 15 sc [15]
Rnd 13. (3sc,dec)* [12]
Rnd 14. 12 sc [12]
Rnd 15. (dec)* [6]
Rnd 16. 6 sc [6]
Fasten off and leave a long thread for assembling.
Sew the tail to the back of the body between Rnds 31 and 32.

Buoy
In petrol blue.
Make a ch 48 and close with a slst to create a ring.
Continue in round.
Rnd 1. 48 sc [48]
Rnd 2. (5sc,inc)* [56]
Rnd 3. (6sc,inc)* [64]
Rnd 4. (7sc,inc)* [72]
Rnd 5. (8sc,inc)* [80]
Rnd 6-9. 80 sc [80]
Rnd 10. (8sc,inc)* [72]
Rnd 11. (7sc,inc)* [15]
Rnd 12. (6sc,inc)* [15]
Rnd 13. (5sc,inc)* [12], 1 slst.
Fasten off and sew Rnds 1 and 13, stuffing the buoy as you go.
Embroider dots (or other decorations) on the buoy.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas :

Abbreviations
sc– single crochet
ch – Chain
inc – increase
dec – Decrease
sl-st – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tr- triple crochet

Arms (make two)
Beige color
1 – 6sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2 – inc * 6 (12)
3 – (3sc, inc) * 3 (15)
4-5 – 15sc (15) Change the color to blue
6-16 – 15sc (15) 11 rows
17 – (3sc, dec) * 3 (12)
Tightly fill with filler. Do not fill the last 2-4 rows.
Fold in half and knit 6sc on both sides. Fasten the thread and cut off. Leave the long end of the thread if you will sew on hands, not knit.

Legs (make two)
Beige color
1 – 6sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2 – inc * 6 (12)
3 – 5sc, inc * 2, 5sc (14)
4 – 14sc (14)
5 – 6sc, inc * 2, 6sc (16)
6 – 16sc (16)
7 – 7sc, inc * 2, 7sc (18)
8 – 18sc (18)
At the first leg, cut and fasten the thread, at the second leg the thread is not cut off.
We connect the legs and continue to knit the body.
We stuff the part as we knit

Body + Head
9 – 5ch, sl-st in the last column of the row of the first leg, 8sc, inc * 2, 8sc, 5sc on a chain of air loops, 8sc, inc * 2, 8sc, 5sc for the remaining hinges chain of air loops (50)
10 – (4sc, inc) * 10 (60)
11 – 20sc, (inc, 2sc) * 4, inc, 23sc, 3sc (66)
Change color to blue
12 – (10sc, inc) * 6 (72)
13-20 – 72sc (72) 8 rows
We begin to make decreases. Decreases go strictly on each side.
21 – 14sc, dec, 36sc, dec, 18sc (70)
22-23 – 70sc (70)
24 – 14sc, dec, 35sc, dec, 17sc (68)
25-26 – 68sc (68)
27 – in this row we knit hands, it all depends on your density knitting, I have this: 12sc, knit the first hand (2sc, dec, 2sc), 29sc, knit the other hand (2sc, dec, 2sc), 15sc (66)

Change color to beige
28 – for the rear half loops (9sc, dec) * 6 (60)
29-34 – 60sc (60) 6 rows
35 – 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) * 5, 4sc (54)
36-37 – 54sc (54)
38 – (7sc, dec) * 6 (48)
39-42 – 48sc (48) 4 rows
43 – 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5, 3sc (42)
44 – (5sc, dec) * 6 (36)
45 – 2sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, 2sc (30)
46 – (3sc, dec) * 6 (24)
47 – sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, sc (18)
48 – (sc, dec) * 6 (12)
49 – dec * 6 (6)
Fasten thread, cut
Close the remaining loops, hide the thread.

Muzzle
Beige color
1 – 6sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2 – inc * 6 (12)
3 – (sc, inc) * 6 (18)
4 – (2sc, inc) * 6 (24)
5-6 – 24sc (24)
Fasten the thread, cut off, leaving the long end of the thread for sewing on. Sew the muzzle, arrange the lower edge of the muzzle between 27 and 28 nearby (color change)

Ears (make two)
Beige (do not stuff)
1 – 6sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2 – inc * 6 (12)
3 – (sc, inc) * 6 (18)
4-6 – 24sc (24)
Fold the part in half and knit 12sc on both sides.
Fasten the thread, cut off, leaving the long end of the thread for sewing on.

Sweater collar
On knitting needles, dial 68 loops and knit 12 rows with an elastic band (2 faces, 2 lives). Cut the thread and sew the edges of the collar. Sew the gate to the front half loops of the 28th row. You may need to reduce or add quantity loops and rows needed for knitting gates. It all depends on your knitting density.

Heart Pattern
We begin to embroider a pattern from 16 rows (5th row after color change) strictly according to the middle. I have the beginning of embroidery on 33 sc from the start of the row.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas :

Abbreviations
MR- Magic ring
sc- Single crochet
dc- Double crochet
hdc- Half double crochet
ch- Chain
inc- Increase
dec- Decrease
sl st- Slip stitch

Arms (Make 2)
The marker goes exactly in front of the arms, perpendicular to the top.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5-8. 24 sc (24)
We fill the handles as we crochet
Rnd 9. 18 sc, 3 dec (21)
Rnd 10. 3 dec, 9 sc, 3 dec (15)
Rnd 11. 3 dec, 9 sc (12)
Rnd 12-19. 12 sc (12)
When using the joints of the handle, we fill it as tightly as possible
Rnd 20. 6 dec (6)
The joint is inserted between 17-18 rows. The leg of the splint comes out inside of the handle.

Legs (Make 2)
Marker goes in front
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6-8. 30 sc (30)
When using joints, we fill the legs as we knit as tightly as possible.
We insert the joint between 19-20 rows. The leg of the cotter pin comes out the inside of the leg of the toy.
If the legs are knitted, we only stuff the beginning of the legs tightly, after 21 rows we crochet 6 sc for both parts of the crocheting.
Rnd 9. 24 sc, 3 dec (27)
Rnd 10. 3 dec, 21 sc (24)
Rnd 11. 18 sc, 3 dec (21)
Rnd 12. 3 dec, 15 sc (18)
Rnd 13-20. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 21. (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 22. dec 22 (6)
Cut the thread, leaving a long tail. Pull off the remaining loops with a needle and the rest of the thread.

Body
Marker goes straight back, perpendicular to top if needed crochet 1-2 more sc and align the beginning of the row (offset loop)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 9-14. 48 sc (48) – For crocheting legs, see.

We insert the legs between 11 – 12 rows (Check which row will be legs look better on your toy). We fix the joint.
The tip of the joint leg can be melted with a lighter and lightly flatten for a more secure fit.

If the legs are knitted, then make sure that the marker goes on the body exactly behind, in the middle of the back, without displacement. If needed, crochet another 1-2 sc and rearrange the marker.
For the legs in the 11-12th row – 10 sc, 6 sc (we crochet the leg), 16 sc, 6 sc (we crochet a leg), 10sc (48)
Rnd 15. 18 sc, 6 dec, 18 sc (42)
Rnd 16. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 17-18. 36 sc (36)
Rnd 19. (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 20-24. 30 sc (30) For crocheting handles.

We insert the handles between 21 – 22 rows (Check which row will be legs look better on your toy). We fix the joint.
The tip of the leg of the joint can be melted with a lighter and flatten for a more secure fit.
If the handles will be crocheting: In the 21-23rd row we knit 5sc, 6 sc (we crochet a handle), 8ch, 6 sc (we knit a handle), 5sc (24)
Rnd 25. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
If you tie your head. Start after this row. scheme heads from row 5 and further according to the scheme. But then don’t forget that the eyes insert at 14-15. Also (without the use of joints) the head can be sew on
Rnd 26. (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 27. (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
We stuff as tightly as possible, insert the joint. We crochet decreases to the end, until the base of the joint closes.
To tie a bear (In a dress or skirt) after 15 rows change the color of the body to the color of the clothes, crochet:

Rnd 16. 36 sc (36)
Rnd 17. 36 sc in BLO (36)
Further according to the scheme. To crochet a skirt in the 17th row, we crochet for front wall 3 hdc in one loop. Another row of hdc. We tie another row with simple sc.

Head
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 9. (7sc,inc)*6 (54)
We put the head on the leg of the joint, in the very center of crochet, we slam. Stuff as you crochet, tighter.

When using a joint, or crochet, the beginning of the row goes from below the head. The opposite is true when sewing. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor in which row to insert the eyes.
Rnd 10-17. 54 sc (54)
We insert the eyes in the 11-12th row (the distance between the eyes is 1 column). If the head is to be sewn on, insert the eyes approximately in the 14th-15th row (beginning of the row from above)
Rnd 18. (7sc,dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 19. (6sc,dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 20. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 21. (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 22. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 23. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 24. (1sc,dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 25. 6 dec (6)
Cut the thread, leaving a long tail. Pull the remaining loops with a needle and the rest of the thread.

Muzzle
White
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6- inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)

To make the muzzle voluminous, knit another row of 24 sc and stuff with filler when sewing to the head
We embroider a nose on the muzzle with the same yarn as the cap. Regular stitches from bottom to top or vice versa, in several layers for volume.
For convenience, embroider two strips first so you know which size will be your nose. Too big to embroider is not worth it.

Ears & Tail
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3-4. 12 sc (12)
Fold, crochet for both walls crocheting 6 sc.
No need to stuff.

Patches
Rnd 1. 8 sc in MR (8)
We crochet (3 sc in 1 loop, 1 sc)*4, then we crochet a square, crocheting 3 sc into the corners.
Choose the size of the patch according to the size of your toy.

Cap (Blue)
Pompom crochet separately
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3-5. 12 sc (12)
Rnd 6. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 7- 9. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 10. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 11-13. 24 sc (24)
Rnd 14. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 15-17. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 18. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 19-21. 36 sc (36)
Rnd 22. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 23-25. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 26. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 27-29. 48 sc (48)
Rnd 30. (7sc,inc)*6 (54)
Rnd 31-33. 54 sc (54)
Rnd 34. (8sc,inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 35-37. 60 sc (60)
Rnd 38. (9sc,inc)*6 (66)
Rnd 39-41. 66 (66)
Rnd 42. (10sc,inc)*6 (72)
Rnd 43. 72 sc (72)
White
Rnd 44. 72 sc (72)
Blue
Rnd 45. 72 sc

Pompon (White)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6-9. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 7. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 8. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Fill with filler, sew to the tip of the cap.

Scarf
For a scarf, dial a chain of 60 ch, and starting from the second loop from the hook, we crochet several (3-5) rows in turning rows. The next rows start with ch.
Choose the length of the scarf according to the size of your toy. The larger the chain of ch, the longer the scarf.

Assembly
• We sew the muzzle under the very eyes (do not stuff). We sew the ears between 16-22 next to the head (Beginning of the row from the bottom). The tail is sewn approximately between 8-10 next to the body.
• We embroider seams on the forehead, tummy, on the sides of the arms and legs. To do this, we take black sewing threads in 4-6 threads. Too thick threads are not recommended.
 The cap is sewn on the side of the head. Sew a decorative button to the scarf.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Yarn:
#4 / aran / worsted yarn, 8ply, 80% cotton 20% Milk Fiber, in off white, forest green, dark brown for the pom pom (I use a local shop yarn, an equivalent would be Paintbox Cotton Aran but keep the 3.5mm hook to obtain tight stitches and avoid gaps where the fiberfill shows)
DMC Cotton Perle N°8 shade 310 (black) to embroider the nose, mouth and claws
DMC Happy Cotton: shades 776 and 777 for the fishing bag, shade 794 for the scarf, shade 796 for the fishes. This yarn is a #3 /DK-light 100% cotton, and I use the 2.5mm hook.
Tapestry needle
Fiberfill
Stitch marker or a strand of thinner yarn
A pair of 8mm safety eyes
Ball point pins for assembly
A small piece of wood for the fishing rod. 

LEVEL
– Advertisement
Intermediate to advanced.  

GAUGE AND SIZE
With the above material: 5-round circle = 5cm (2″). Find out how to measure gauge for amigurumis in my tutorial here.
With the material mentioned above and when gauge is achieved:
•The bear is 16cm tall (6.3″)

PATTERN NOTES AND SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch into consecutive stitches from the previous round (unless stated otherwise). Ex: 3inc = work one increase into each of the next 3 stitches.
– Advertisement pattern is worked in continuous spiral rounds (i.e. without closing the rounds with a slip stitch) unless stated otherwise (the apron is worked in rows). It may help to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.
For amigurumi in general, I always use an invisible decrease (unless stated otherwise) to minimize the gaps between these stitches so that the fiberfill doesn’t show too much. You can check this simple technique in a video tutorial here, but if it’s too much hassle and you prefer to start right away you can also work with normal decrease, no big deal!
Do spend time to embroider the nose and mouth nicely, these details make a big difference on the final look and expression of your amigurumis! 

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)
st: stitch/es
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
inc: single crochet increase (work 2 sc into the same st)
dec: single crochet decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc inc: half double crochet increase (work 2 hdc into the same st)
[number]: total number of stitches of the round
Rnd: round
(…) x 2: repeat whatever is in between the parenthesis the number of times indicated
in BLO: in the back loop only
in FLO: in the front loop only
FPhdc: front post half double crochet (Work the stitch just like a normal half double crochet, except you insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next stitch in the row below).
BPhdc: back post half double crochet (Work the stitch just like a normal half double crochet, except you insert your hook from front to back around the post of the next stitch in the row below).

THE LEGS AND BODY
With off-white yarn and a 3.5mm hook.
Rnd 1: Work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: in BLO, sc around. [12]
Rnd 4: 4sc, 2dec, 4sc. [10]
Rnd 5: sc around. [10]
Rnd 6: (2sc, inc) x 3, sc in last st. [13]
Fasten off, leave a tail to close the gap between the legs later. This one is leg 1.
Make a second leg, and don’t fasten off after round 6. This one is leg 2.
Rnd 7: now let’s join the two legs together, so that the toes are pointing in the same direction. In leg 2, 11sc. Continue in the 4th stitch of leg 1, sc in all 13 stitches of leg 1. Continue in leg 2, 2sc (work the first sc in the stitch that already has a sc in it, not in the first available stitch). [27]
Rnd 8: sc around. [27]
Rnd 9: (3sc, inc) x 6, 2sc, inc. [34]
Use the tail of leg 1 to sew closed the small gap between the two legs.
Rnd 10: 9sc, (inc, 2sc) x 3, 16sc. [37]
Rnd 11 – 12: sc around. [37]
Stuff the legs with fiberfill.
Rnd 13: (3sc, dec) x 7, 2sc. [30]
Rnd 14: sc, dec, sc around. [29]
Rnd 15: 11sc, dec, 16sc. [28]
Rnd 16 – 17: sc around. [28]
Rnd 18: (2sc, dec) x 7. [21]
Rnd 19: 8sc, dec, 9sc, dec. [19]
Rnd 20: sc around [19]
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew to the head later. Finish stuffing firmly with fiberfill.

THE HEAD
Rnd 1: Work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]
Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x 6. [24]
Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x 6. [30]
Rnd 6: sc in each st around. [30]
Rnd 7: (4sc, inc) x 6. [36]
Rnd 8: sc in each st around. [36]
Rnd 9: (5sc, inc) x 6. [42]
Rnd 10-14: sc in each st around [42]
Insert safety eyes between round 9 and 10, with 7 stitches between the 2 eyes.
Rnd 15: (5sc, dec) x 6. [36]
Rnd 16: (4sc, dec) x 6. [30]
Rnd 17: (3sc, dec) x 6. [24]
Rnd 18: (2sc, dec) x 6. [18]
Stuff firmly with fiberfill.
Rnd 19: (sc, dec) x 6. [12]
Rnd 20: 6dec. [6]
Fasten off and sew closed.

THE ARMS (make 2)
Rnd 1: Work 6sc into a magic ring. [6] 
Rnd 2: (inc, 2sc) x 2. [8]
Rnd 3: sc around. [8]
Rnd 4: (2sc, dec) x 2. [6]
Rnd 5 – 8: sc around. [6]
Don’t fill, flatten and close by crocheting both edges together with 2sc. 
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Make a second one. 

THE NOSE
Rnd 1: work 6sc into a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: sc around. [12]
Rnd 4: (sc, inc) x 6. [18]
Rnd 5: sc around. [18]
Embroider the nose with DMC cotton perle black thread. I strongly advise to embroider the upper part of the nose before stuffing and attaching to the head, it’s much easier, and less messy in case you need to undo and redo. First embroider the edges as guides, then fill inside, vertically.

THE EARS (make 2)
Rnd 1: Work 6sc into a magic ring. [6] 
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (3sc, inc) x 3. [15]
Rnd 4 – 5: sc around. [15]
Rnd 6: (3sc, dec) x 3. [12]
Don’t fill, flatten and close by crocheting both edges together.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Make a second one.

THE FISHES (make 2 or 3…or more!)
With DMC happy cotton shade 796 (light blue) and a 2.5mm hook. 
Rnd 1: Work 5sc into a magic ring. [5]
Rnd 2: 2sc, inc, 2sc. [6]
Rnd 3: (inc, 2sc) x 2. [8]
Rnd 4 – 5: sc around. [8]
Rnd 6: (dec, 2sc) x 2. [6]
Rnd 7: Flatten and close (don’t stuff with fiberfill) by crocheting both edges together with 2sc.[2] 
Rnd 8: chain1, turn, (hdc, 2sc) in the first stitch, (2sc, hdc) in next stitch. [6]
Fasten off, weave in end. 
Embroider an eye with black cotton perle yarn or any other black yarn. 

THE BEANIE 
With forest green yarn and 3.5mm hook.
Rnd 1: Work 6sc into a magic ring. [6] 
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (hdc, hdc inc) x 6. [18]
Rnd 4: (2hdc, hdc inc) x 6. [24]
Rnd 5: 3hdc, hdc inc, 3hdc, chain 4, skip 3 st, hdc, hdc inc, 3hdc, hdc inc, chain 4, skip 3 st, hdc, 3hdc, hdc inc. [30]
Rnd 6: (4hdc, hdc inc) x 6. [36] 
Rnd 7: (5hdc, hdc inc) x 6. [42]
Rnd 8: sl st, chain 1. Starting in the same st (first st of previous round, where you just did the sl st), (FPhdc, BPhdc) x 21. [42] (the sl st and chain don’t count as st)
Rnd 9: repeat round 8. [42]
Fasten off, and make an invisible finish. Weave in ends.
The Pom-Pom : very soon I’ll publish a tutorial to make the pompom yourself. Otherwise you can just buy a pompom from the size and colour of your choice!

THE SCARF
Yarn: DMC happy cotton shade 794 (mustard yellow).
The scarf is worked in rows. The turning chain don’t count as a stitch. 
Make a slip knot. Chain 4. 
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from the hook, 3sc, chain 2, turn. [3]
Row 2: 3dc, chain 1, turn. [3]
Row 3: 3sc, chain 2, turn. [3]
Row 4: 3dc, chain 1, turn. [3] 
Row 5: 3sc, chain 2, turn. [3]
Row 6 – 44 : keep repeating row 4 and 5 alternatively. [3]

THE FISHING BAG
Yarn: DMC happy cotton shade 776 (light brown) and a 2.5mm hook. 
The beginning of the bag is worked around the chain.
Rnd 1: Chain 8. Work 2sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in the next 5 st, work 4sc in the last chain, turn to crochet on the other side of the chain, sc in the next 5 st, inc in last. [18]
Keep working in continuous rounds.
Rnd 2: inc, 7sc, 2inc, 7sc, inc [22]
Rnd 3: in BLO, sc around. [22]
Rnd 4 : sc around [22]
Rnd 5: dec, 8sc, dec, 10sc. [20]
Rnd 6: 4sc, dec, 14sc. [19]
Rnd 7: sc around. [19]
To make the bag flap (in rows):
Rnd 8: chain 1, turn, 8sc. [8]
Rnd 9: chain 1, turn, dec, 4sc, dec. [6]
Rnd 10: chain 1, turn, dec, 2sc, dec. [4]
Rnd 11: chain 1, turn, 2dec. [2]
Fasten off and weave in ends.

To make the bag clasp
With DMC happy cotton shade 777 (brown) and a 2.5mm hook, make a slip knot, leaving a tail for sewing. Chain 4, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. With the tail, make a small loop (to form the buckle) and make a knot around the 4th chain to secure the loop. Hide the tail back along the chain. Sew to the top of the bag flap in the middle, and hide yarn tails inside. 

Take another piece of brown yarn, and with a tapestry needle, insert it in the middle of the bag between round 5 and 6, from inside the bag to outside. Make an embroidery knot point: wrap your yarn 5 times around the tip of your needle, and insert your needle back into the same hole, pull delicately. Secure the yarn tails inside the bag by sewing them inside.

To make the bag strap
With DMC happy cotton shade 777 (brown) and a 2.5mm hook, make a slip knot, leaving a tail for sewing. Chain 40, fasten off, and sew to the sides of the fishing bag, halfway up the sides. When sewing, grab the 2nd or 3rd stitch of the strap so that the straps stick to the sides of the bag.
PS*: This accessory doesn’t need to be attached to the body for assembly, you can just slip it on after assembly, from the feet.
PS**: before fastening off, adjust the number of chains to obtain the length you like if needed.

ASSEMBLY
I strongly recommend to use ball point pins for assembly. This way you are sure your piece won’t move during sewing and you save a lot of time and frustration. 
1) Embroider the upper part of the nose. 
2) Sew the nose to the head (the top of the nose should be sewn between round 9 and 10. 
3) Sew the ears to the head (the top of the ears are sewn between round 4 and 5).
4) Attach the head to the body (with the bear belly on the front).
5) Sew the arms to the body between round 19 and 20.
6) Embroider the claws on the paws, and embroider the end of the nose and mouth (it’s easier to see the global expression of your amigurumi once it’s fully assembled, I usually do the smile last cause it’s really important and can change the whole look!)
7) Find a fine piece of wood to make the rod and attach a string to make the line. 
8) Attach a fish to the end of the line, and put another fish inside Bruno’s bag. Insert the rod through a stitch of the hand (or attach a string of yarn to the rod and sew it to the hand)
9) Put on the beanie, scarf and fishing bag (slip it on from the feet), and here you go, Bruno is gone fishing! 
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bear Ideas:

Cοnventions:
ΚΑ – amіgurumi rіng
νр – air looр
sс – sіngle crochеt
рr – іncrеasе
ub – decrease
(…) хn – reрeаt n tіmes
Descrіptiоn of knittіng amіgυrumі bеаr аngеl wіth а сroсhеt heаrt

Legs and bodу
1- 6 іn КА
2- 6 inc (12)
3- (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4- (2 sс, inc) х 6 (24)
5- (3 sс, іnc) х 6 (30 )
6- 30 sbn behind the bаck wаll of thе lооp
7-12. 30 sc
Αt the first leg, сut thе thread. Simіlarly, tіе thе secоnd one, bυt wе do not cut the thrеad, bυt cοntinυe to knіt fυrther:

13- 3 сh, tаkе thе second leg and knіt 30 sbn аlοng it, 3 sbn аlong thе сhаin from сh, 30 sbn аlong thе first leg, 3 sbn along the chaіn frοm ch (66)
Ιn plaсеs wherе wе conneсt thе legs, knit more tightlу sο that there are nο hоles.
14-22. 14 – 22. 66 sc
23- (9 sc, deс) x 6 (60)
24-27. 60 sc
28- (8 sс, dес) х 6 (54)
29-42. 54 sc
43- (7 sс, dеc) х 6 (48)
44-45. 48 sc
46- (6 sс, dеc) х 6 (42)
47- 42 sc
48- (5 sc, deс) х 6 (36)
49- 36 sc
50- (4 sс, deс) х 6 (30)
51 30 sc
52- (3 sс, dеc ) x 6 (24)
53- (2 sc, dеc) x 6 (18)
54- (1 sc, dеc) х 6 (12)
55- 6 dеc (6)
Сυt thе thread аnd hide the ends.

Hаnds (2 раrts)
1- 5 in СA
2- 5 іnс (10)
3- (1 sс, inс) x 5 (15)
4- (2 sс, inс) х 5 (20)
5-14. 20 sc
Fold in half, do nοt stuff. Knit 10 sbn, leaνе thе thrеad fοr sewіng.

Muzzle
1- Dіal 4 сh. Ιn the 2nd loоp from thе hook, knit 2 sc, knit 3 sс іn thе lаst loор. On thе reνersе sidе we knіt 1 sc, inc (8)
2- іnc, 1 sс, 3 іnc, 1 sc, 2 inc (14)
3- 1 sс, inc, 1 sc, (1 sс, іnc) x 3, 1 sc , (1 sс, inc) x 2 (20)
4- 2 sc, inс, 1 sс, (2 sс, inс) х 3, 1 sс, (2 sс, іnc) х 2 (26)
5-6. 26 sс
Leaνе the thrеаd for sеwing, fіll.

Еаrs (2 pаrts)
1- 6 in ΚA
2- 6 іnс (12)
3- (1 sс, inc) х 6 (18)
4-7. 18 sс
Fоld in hаlf, dо nοt stυff, knit 9 sc. Leaνe thе threаd for sеwіng.

Τaіl
1- 6 in KΑ
2- 6 inc (12)
3-4. 12 sc
Lеaνе thе thread fоr sewing, add a lіttle fіllеr.

Wings
Wе knіt 3 раrts. At thе first twο wе cut the threаd, at the thіrd wе lеaνe.
1 item:
1- 6 іn KА
2- 6 іnс (12)
3-5. 12 sс

2 detаil:
1- 6 in КA
2- 6 inc (12)
3-7. 12 sс

3 detail:
1- 6 in KA
2- 6 іnс (12)
3-9. 12 sс

We сonnect аll 3 pаrts tοgеthеr.
1- We knit 6 sbn, takе the sесоnd рart, wе knіt 12 sbn on it, wе knіt 12 sbn аt thе thіrd pаrt. On thе seсond 6 sbn and on the first wе knіt 6 sbn. That іs: 6 sc, 6 sс, 12 sc, 6 sс, 6 sc (36)
2-3. 36 sc
4-(4 sc, dеc) х 6 (30)
5-6. 30 sс
7- (3 sс, dес) x 6 (24)
8-9. 24 sc
10-(2 sc, dеc) х 6 (18)
11-12. 18 sc
13- (1 sс, dеc) x 6 (12)
Fоld іn hаlf, dο not stuff. Wе knіt 6 sc, lеаvе the thread for sewing.

Hеаrt
We knіt two idеnticаl parts. We cut thе thread frοm the first раrt, leаvе іt frоm the secоnd.
1- 6 sc іn KA
2- 6 іnс (12)
3- (1 sc, іnс) x 6 (18)
4- (5 sc, inс) х 3 (21)
5-6. 21 sс
Wе cоnnеct 2 аnd 1 parts togethеr аnd cоntіnυe tо knit in a сіrсle.
7- 42 sс
8- (5 sс, dес) x 6 (36)
9- (4 sс, dеc) х 6 (30)
10- (3 sс, dec) x 6 (24)
11- (2 sc, dес) ) х 6 (18)
12- (4 sc, deс) x 3 (15)
13- (3 sc, dес) x 3 (12)
Fill wіth fillеr
14- (2 sс, deс) x 3 (9)
15- ( 1 sс, dеc) х 3 (6)
Pυll thе holе, hіdе thе thrеаd.

Assembling the toу
Wе cουnt 11 rows frоm thе сrоwn.
Wе insеrt (gluе) the eyеs, thе interνаl between thе eуеs іs 4-5 lоοрs.
Sew а mυzzlе υnder the eyes.
Thе spout cаn be іnsеrtеd immedіаtеlу befοrе sеwing, οr glυed later.
Wе sew the ears betweеn 7 аnd 13 rοws. Frоm the mυzzlе wе соunt tο thе rіght аnd tо thе lеft 5-6 lоops, аnd dοwn 2-3 rows.
Frоm thе mυzzlе wе сοunt 5-6 looрs to thе right аnd left, and 2-3 rows tο thе bottοm. Sew іn these рlаces thе pаws аt an аnglе.
We sew or glυе a heаrt between thе раws (Ι glυed іt wіth hot glυе).
Wе sеw thе tіps of thе раws tο the heаrt so that οur bеаr hоlds the heart іn іts pаws.
Sеw wings and a taіl on the bасk.
Wіth а blасk thіn threаd or floss wе embroіdеr the eyеbrоws and а strip undеr thе sроυt.
Оptіοnаlly, yоυ cаn tint thе сheеks аnd inside the еаrs.
Congratulations

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Abbreviations
R – row
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 2 ch, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook [7]
R 2-8: 7 sc (7 rows)
Stuff arm 1/2 full.
Fold the top opening flat and 3 sc through both sides.
Fasten off.

Tail
R 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6]
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [9]
R 3: 7 sc, dec [8]
Don’t stuff.
Fasten off.

Muzzle
R 1: 2 ch, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook [8]
R 2: (inc) repeat 8 times [16]
R 3: (6 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [14]
Fasten off.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12], sl st
Fasten off.

Legs, body and head (one piece)
Legs (make 2)
Start with main color:
Stuff as you go.
R 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3-4: 12 sc (2 rows)
Change to pants color:
R 5-6: 12 sc (2 rows)
Fasten off.
Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.
Make additional 2 sc on the second leg and 2 ch, join with the first leg.

Continue crocheting the body in the round:
R 7: 12 sc on the first leg, 2 sc in 2 ch, 12 sc on the second leg, 2 sc in 2 ch (opposite side) [28]
R 8: (13 sc, inc) repeat 2 times [30]
R 9-10: 30 sc (2 rows)
R 11: (4 sc, dec) repeat 5 times [25]

Change to main color:
R 12: BLO: 25 sc
R 13: 25 sc
R 14: (3 sc, dec) repeat 5 times [20]
R 15-16: 20 sc (2 rows)
R 17: attach arms: 4 sc, 3 sc together with sc of the first arm, 6 sc, 3 sc together with sc of the second arm, 4 sc [20]
If the arms are not at the correct position move them on 1-2 sc to the right or to the left.
R 18: (8 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [18]
R 19: (inc) repeat 18 times [36]
R 20-25: 36 sc (6 rows)
R 26: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 27: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Insert safety eyes between R 24 and R 25 at the distance of 4-5 sc from each other.
R 28: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 29: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
R 30: (dec) repeat 6 times [6]
Fasten off.
Sew up the hole with needle through the outer stitches.

Eye tightening
Mark the eye points:
Points #2 and #4 are located under eyes.
Points #1 and #3 – 4-5 rows below points #2 and #4.
Follow the photograph, below, as a guide.

Take a long needle with strong thread or cotton yarn.
Insert the needle from the point #1 and draw it out the point #2. Insert the needle in the left at the distance of 2 sc of the point #2 and draw it out the point #1. Pull slightly. Repeat several times.

Than insert the needle in the point #3 and draw it out the point #4. Insert the needle in the right at the distance of 2 sc of the point #4 and draw it out the point #3. Pull slightly. Repeat several times.
Fasten off. You can use the yarn tail for sewing a muzzle.

Assembly
Fill the muzzle with fiberfill.
Pin the muzzle to the head, forming an oval shape.

Pin the ears on the head left and right 3 stitch rows from the center of the head. Sew the ears onto the head.
Embroider a nose, eyebrow and eyelids.

Front panel of the overalls
Mark 8 sc in the center of the pants with pins.
Attach pants color yarn to the front loop of the R 13.
R 1: FLO: 1 ch, 7 sc [8], turn
R 2: 1 ch, 7 sc
Don’t cut the yarn.
Continue crocheting a strap: 15 ch, 5 sl st on the back (in front loop of the R 13), 15 ch, join to the front panel with sl st.
Fasten off.
Sew the tail to the back side of the pants.

Heart
Stuff as you go.
Make 2 pieces:
R 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: 12 sc
Fastern off.
Don’t cut the yarn when you will finish the second detail.

Join two parts together:
R 4: 12 sc on the first part, 12 sc on the second part [24]
R 5: (10 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [22]
R 6: (9 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [20]
R 7: (8 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [18]
R 8: (4 sc, dec) repeat 3 times [15]
R 9: (3 sc, dec) repeat 3 times [12]
R 10: (2 sc, dec) repeat 3 times [9]
R 11: (1 sc, dec) repeat 3 times [6]
Fasten off.
Sew up the hole with needle.
Sew the heart to the teddy bear.
Congratulations

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