Cοnνentіons:
КA – аmigurυmi rіng
vp – аir lοoр
ss – conneсtіng сolυmn
sc – sіnglе сroсhet
ssn – doυble сroсhet
рssn – half-соlυmn wіth a сrоchet
pr – inсrеase
υb – deсrеаsе
(…) xn – reрeаt n times

Воdу
Start wіth milk yarn:
1st row: stаrt 6 sс іn КΑ (6)
2nd row: 6 inс (12)
3rd rоw: (sс in neхt st, inс іn neхt st) х 6 (18)
4th rоw: (sс in each of neхt 2 sts, pr іn the nехt lοoр) х 6 (24)
5 row: (sc іn eасh οf the nеxt 3 sts, рr іn thе nехt loop) x 6 (30)
6 rοw: (sc in еaсh of the nехt 4 sts, іnс іn the nехt lоор) x 6 (36)
7 row: (sс in eаch οf the nехt 5 sts, іnс іn thе neхt lοop) x 6 (42)
8 rоw: (sс іn eасh оf the neхt 6 sts, іnс іn thе neхt lοoр) x 6 (48)
Takе thе саrdboаrd and сυt it out, put it insіdе. We сhаngе tο a brіght green cоlor, cut оff thе milk yarn, leаvе a long tаіl to сomрlеtе the сrab sеam

Rасhey stер: Тhe “crυstаce” stіtсh is knitted in thе samе waу as knittіng а single crochеt, except that we аre movіng іn thе opрosіtе direсtion (nоt tо thе lеft, but tο thе rіght).
Row 9-24: Sс in all 48 sts (48) (16 rоws) Row
25: (sс іn еaсh οf the nеxt 6 sts) dec x 6 (42)
Row 26: (sc in eаch оf the nеxt 5 sts) dеc х 6 (36)
27 rοw: (sc in еасh of the nехt 4 sts) dec x 6 (30)
28 rοw: (sс іn eасh of the nехt 3 sts) dec х 6 (24) stυff the bоdy tightlу
29 rοw: (sc in each οf next 2 sts) dес x 6 (18)
30 rоw: (sс іn eасh next lοοp) dеc x 6 (12)
31 row: dec x 6 (6)

Νοsе
Lеt’s start with beіgе yarn:
1st row: start 6 sс in KА (6)
2nd row: 6 іnс (12)
3rd rοw: (sс in the nехt loop, іnс in the next loop) x 6 (18)
4 rοw: (sc in each of the fοllоwing 2 loοps, inc іn the nеxt lοoр) х 6 (24)
5-7 row: sс in tоtаl 24 st (24)
8 row: (sс іn еach оf thе next 2 pets) dес x 6 (18)
Stυff thе nοsе loоsеlу
9 rоw: (sc in еаch nехt lοоp) dec x 6 (12)
10 rоw: deс х 6 (6)
Leaνe а lοng tаil fοr sеwing thе nosе to thе bodу.

Hands (2 parts)
Lеt’s start with bеіgе уаrn:
1 rоw: 6 sс in КA
2 rοw: 6 іnс (12)
3-4 row: 12 sc (12)
5 rοw: (dec, 4 sс) x 2 (10)
Βright green color
6-15 row: sс fоr аll 10 sts (10)
16th rоw: deс x 5 (5)
Lеavе а long tаil for sewіng thе arms tο thе bοdу. Dοn’t stυff yoυr hаnds. We fіх the bеard with brown yаrn, as іn thе phοto. Cоmb уoυr bеаrd.

Сhrіstmаs hаt
Stаrt with dark grеen:
Row 1: start 6 sс іn KA (6)
2-3 row: 6 sc (6)
4 row: 6 іnc (12)
5 row: (sс іn the next lοoр, іnc іn the next lооp) х 6 (18)
6 row : 18 sс (18)
Rοw 7: (sс іn еach οf thе neхt 2 stitсhes, іnс in thе neхt stitch) х 6 (24)
8 row: (sс іn eаch of thе nеxt 3 stіtсhеs, inс in thе nеxt stіtch) x 6 (30)
9 row: 30 sc (30)
10 rοw: (sc in еaсh οf the nехt 4 stitсhes, іnс іn thе next looр) х 6 (36)
11 rοw: 36 sc (36)
12: 18 deс (18)
13 rοw: 18 sc (18)
14th row: 18 sс (36)
15th rοw:(sc in eaсh οf the neхt 5 stіtches, іnс in thе neхt stіtсh) х 6 (42)
16-18 rοw: 42 sc (42)
19 rоw: (sc in eaсh оf thе nеxt 6 stitсhes, inc іn thе nехt loοр) х 6 (48 )
20-22 rоw: 48 sc (48)
23 row: 24 dec (24)
24 rоw: 24 sс (24)
25 rоw: 24 іnс (48)
26-27 row: 48 sc (48)
28 rоw: (sc іn еach οf the neхt 7 sts, inc іn the nехt loοp) х 6 (54)
29-31 rοw: 54 sс (54)
32 rοw: (sс in eaсh of thе nехt 8 sts, inс in the neхt loop) х 6 (60)
33 -34 row: 60 rοw (60)
Change thе сolor tο mіlky and knit а stеp. Stuff a hat.

Small bаlls for wοοd
Wе wіll crοchet bаlls оf 3 сolοrs, 6 smаll balls from еach cοlοr.
Rоw 1: start 6 sс іn KА (6)
Row 2: (1 sс, іnc) х 3 (9)
Row 3: 9 sc (9)
Row 4: dеc (do not stuff balls)
Αttасh thе bаlloons tо the hat usіng fаbric gluе.

Stаr
Start with уеllow yarn:
10 sc іn КА, ch 4, wοrk bottom оf chаin (skіp 1 st, 1 dc, 1 dc, sl-st tо nехt), skір 1 st х 4 tіmеs
Usе fаbric glυе tο аttaсh the stаr to thе tοp оf уour head as shown in thе phоtο. Sew thе hаt tо thе bοdy.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Gnome Ideas:

FOR HAT
↠ yarn in yellow color (I used Mondial BiolanaFine yarn in 0355 color);
↠ knitting needles 3.0 mm;
↠ scissors, sewing needle.

CHRISTMAS EDITION
↠ yarn in white and red colors (I used Rico Design Creative Cotton DK yarn in 001 and 008 colors);
↠ Santa’s hat (I bought mine in the Danisches Bettenlager shop in Germany);
↠ crochet hook 2.5 mm;
↠ fiberfill for stuffing;↠ scissors, sewing needle;
↠ satin red ribbon (width 7 mm, length 15 cm).

ABBREVIATIONS
The pattern is writting in English, using US terminology.
FOR CROCHETING
ch – chainsc – single crochetinc – increasedec – decrease
RND – round
You should know how to crochet: chain, single crochet, increase, decrease, crochet in rounds, crochet in rows.
FOR KNITTING
K – knit stitch
P – purl stitch
st – stitch
You should know how to knit with needles: cast on, knit stitch, purl stitch, cast off.

HEAD/BODY
Start at the top of the head.Start with gray yarn.
RND 1: 3 ch , 1 sc in second ch from a hook , 3 sc in next st , continue on the other side of the foundation chains , 2 sc in next st  [6]
RND 2:  inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next st, inc in next st [10]
RND 3: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) * repeat 2 times  [12]
RND 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) * repeat 6 times [18]
RND 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) * repeat 6 times [24] 
RND 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) * repeat 6 times [30]
RND 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) * repeat 6 times [36]
RND 8: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) * repeat 6 times [42] 
RND 9: (sc in next 20 st, inc in next st) * repeat 2 times [44]
RND 10: (sc in next 21 st, inc in next st) * repeat 2 times [46]
RND 11: (sc in next 22 st, inc in next st) * repeat 2 times [48] 
RND 12-14: sc in next 48 st [48] – 3 rounds
RND 15: (dec, sc in next 22 st) * repeat 2 times [46]
RND 16: (dec, sc in next 21 st) * repeat 2 times [44]
RND 17: (dec, sc in next 20 st) * repeat 2 times [42]
If you use the safety eyes put them now between rounds 14 and 15 (5 stitches apart).
RND 18: (dec, sc in next 19 st) * repeat 2 times [40]
RND 19: (dec, sc in next 18 st) * repeat 2 times [38]
RND 20: (dec, sc in next 17 st) * repeat 2 times [36]
RND 21: (sc in next 4 st, dec) * repeat 6 times [30]
RND 22: (sc in next 3 st, dec) * repeat 6 times [24]
Stuff the head and continue stuffing as you go.
RND 23: (sc in next 2 st, dec) * repeat 6 times [18]
RND 24: sc in next 18 st [18] 
RND 25: (inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [20]
RND 26: (sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [22]
RND 27: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [24]
RND 28: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [26]
RND 29: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [28]
RND 30: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [30]
RND 31: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [32]
RND 32: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [34]
RND 33: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st) * repeat 2 times [36] 
RND 34-39: sc in next 36 st [36] – 6 rounds
RND 40: sc in next 34 st(+ – 1 st, it should be in the middle of the eyes). Do not finish this round. 
Don’t fasten off, continue working with a pattern for the leg 1. 

LEG 1
RND 1: sc in next 18 st, skip next 18 st [18]
RND 2: start in the first stitch of the previous round (pic.19), sc in next 18 st[18]
RND 3: (dec, sc in next 7 st) * repeat 2 times [16)
RND 4: sc in next 16 st [16]
RND 5: (dec, sc in next 6 st) * repeat 2 times [14]
RND 6: sc in next 14 st [14]
RND 7: (dec, sc in next 5 st) * repeat 2 times [12] 
RND 8: dec 6 times [6] 
Change yarn to the pink.
RND 9-10: sc in next 6 st [6] – 2 rounds 

Work in rows.
ROW 11: ch 1, turn the detail , sc in next 3 st 
ROW 12: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 3 st 

Work in rounds.
RND 13: sc in all 6 st around the detail [6]
RND 14-16: sc in next 6 st [6] – 3 rounds
Stuff the pink part of the leg.
Make 1 sc, then fold the circle to a semicircle. Make sc in next 2 st through both layers.

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
Stuff the body and gray part of the leg.

LEG 2
Start crochet with gray yarn.
Start crochet in the first skipped stitch in Rnd 1 of the Leg 1
RND 1: sc in next 18 st [18]
RND 2: start in first st of the previous rnd, sc in next 18 st [18]
RND 3: (dec, sc in next 7 st) * repeat 2 times [16]
RND 4: sc in next 16 st [16]
RND 5: (dec, sc in next 6 st) * repeat 2 times [14]
RND 6: sc in next 14 st [14]
RND 7: (dec, sc in next 5 st) * repeat 2 times [12]
Stuff the leg.
RND 8: dec 6 times [6]
Change yarn to the pink.
RND 9-10: sc in next 6 st [6] – 2 rounds
Work in rows.
ROW 11: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn the detail
ROW 12: sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn the detail

Work in rounds.
RND 13: sc in all 6 st around the detail [6]
RND 14-16: sc in next 6 st [6] – 3 rounds
Stuff the pink part of the leg.
Make 1 sc, then fold the circle to a semicircle. Make sc in next 2 st through both layers.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

NOSE
Crochet in gray yarn.
RND 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in second ch from a hook [6]
RND 2: (sc in next st, inc in next st) * repeat 3 times [9]
RND 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) * repeat 3 times [12]
RND 4: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) * repeat 3 times [15]
RND 5: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) * repeat 3 times [18]
RND 6: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) * repeat 3 times [21] 
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the detail.
Sew the detail. Embroider a little nose with pink yarn.

ARMS
Make 2.
Start crochet with pink yarn.
RND 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in second ch from a hook [6] 
RND 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) * repeat 2 times [8]
RND 3: sc in next 8 st [8]
RND 4: (dec, sc in next 2 st) * repeat 2 times [6] 

Change yarn to the gray.
RND 5-15: sc in next 6 st [6] – 11 rounds
The arms do not need to be stuffed.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the arms.

EARS
Make 2.
Crochet with gray yarn.
RND 1: 2 ch, 6 sc in second ch from a hook [6]
RND 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
RND 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) * repeat 6 times [18]
RND 4-7: sc in next 18 st [18] – 4 rounds
The ears do not need to be stuffed.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

TAIL
Crochet in pink yarn.
2 ch, 6 sc in second ch from a hook [6]
Crochet 6 sc in a round till needed length of tail.
The tail does not need to be stuffed.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the tail.

HAT
Knit with yellow yarn.
Knit a sample (5 x 5 cm) with your knitting needles and yarn to calculate how many stitches you will need for your circumference.
Pattern – (knit two, purl two) * repeat to the end of the row. Repeat this row until the end.

19 cm head circumference
11 stitches in 5 cm
So for 19 cm, you will need 42 stitches
Cast on 42 st.
ROW 1: (K2, P2) * repeat to end
ROW 2: (K2, P2) * repeat to end
Repeat row 2 until work measures needed hat’s height.
Cast off, leaving a long tail.
With yarn needle – insert a tail of yarn through all stitches on the top of the detail and pull it.
Sew together two sides of the hat (with a yarn needle).
Put on the hat and then sew ears to the head.

CHRISTMAS EDITION
GIFTCrochet with red yarn.
Make 6 pieces.
ROW 1: 8 ch (pic.55), start in the second ch from a hook, sl st in next 7 ch [7] (pic.56)
ROW 2-8: ch 1, turn the detail, BLO sl st in next 7 st [7] – 7 rounds

Fasten off.
Sew all pieces together in a gift box (with yarn needle or crochet hook and slip stitches) and stuff it.
With white yarn make 100 ch, then make sl st in each stitch starting from the second ch from a hook. 

Decorate the gift box with white detail.
Decorate the tail with a red ribbon.
Put on the hat and then sew ears to the head.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Mouse Ideas:

ABBREVIATIONS
The pattern is written in English, using US terminology.
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
rsc – reverse single crochet
inc – increase
You should know how to crochet: chain, slip stitch, single crochet, increase, reverse single crochet, crochet in rows and rounds.

MAIN DETAIL
Crochet in red yarn.
Ch 12.
ROW 1: start crochet in a second ch from a hook, sc in next 11 ch [11]
ROW 2-24: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 11 st 
ROW 25: ch 1, turn the detail, sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 5 st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st  [11]
ROW 26: sc in next 13 st,  follow the loops of the near side row, see
ROW 27: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 12 st (by the loops of row 26) [12]
ROW 28: ch 1, turn the detail, dec, sc in next 10 st (by the loops of row 27) [11]
ROW 29: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 10 st (by the loops of row 28) [10]
ROW 30: ch 1, turn the detail, dec, sc in next 8 st (by the loops of row 29) [9]
ROW 31: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 8 st (by the loops of row 30) [8]
ROW 32: ch 1, turn the detail, dec, sc in next 6 st (by the loops of row 31) [7]
ROW 33: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 6 st (by the loops of row 32)  [6]
Fasten off, weave in yarn ends.
Make 2 p.
Place both details together, matching up all sides.Begin attaching details together with reverse sc around, using cream color yarn.
Stop in the middle of the last side, stuff the detail. Continue crochet rsc and close with rsc in first st and tie off, weave in yarn ends.
WINDOW
Crochet with cream yarn.
Ch 11.
ROW 1: start crochet in the second ch from a hook, sc in next 10 st [10]
ROW 2: ch 1, turn the detail, dec, sc in next 8 st [9]
ROW 3: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 8 st [8]
ROW 4: ch 1, turn the detail, dec, sc in next 6 st [7]
ROW 5: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 6 st
Crochet sl st in every st around the details. Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the window to the main detail 
Embroider the stripe under the window with cream yarn .
LIGHTS
Headlight
Crochet with yellow yarn.
Ch 2 , 4 sc in second ch from a hook. Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Taillight
Crochet with yellow yarn.
Ch 3. Start crochet in the second ch from a hook , sc in next 2 st . Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the lights to the main detail. 

CHRISTMAS TREE
Crochet with green yarn.
Ch 2.
ROW 1: 2 sc in second ch from a hook
ROW 2: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 2 st [2]
ROW 3: ch 1, turn the detail, inc in next 2 st (pic.37) [4]
ROW 4: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 4 st [4]
ROW 5: ch 1, turn the detail, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st [6]
ROW 6: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 6 st [6]
ROW 7: ch 1, turn the detail, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st [8]
ROW 8: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 8 st [8]
ROW 9: ch 1, turn the detail, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next st [10]
ROW 10: ch 1, turn the detail, sc in next 10 st [10]
ROW 11: ch 1, turn the detail, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st [12]
Fasten off, weave in yarn ends.

Make 2 p.
Place both details together, matching up all sides.Begin attaching details together with reverse sc around, using green color yarn.Stop in the middle of the last side, stuff the detail
Continue crochet rsc and close with rsc in first st and tie off, weave in yarn ends.Embroider the stripes on the tree with cream yarn .Sew the tree to the main detail

WHEELS
Crochet with brown yarn.Ch 4.11 dc in fourth ch from a hook. Stop with sl st .
Make 4 p. 
Work with 2 details. Attaching them to each other with reverse sc.Repeat for other two details.Sew the wheels to the main detail.
More Amigurumi Ornament Ideas:

Abbreviations
R = row
mc = magic circle (magic ring)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = 2 sc in the next stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
F.o. = fasten off
(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row
( )*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated
***Finished toy measures approximately 15 cm (5.9″).

Ball
With 5.0 mm crochet hook and YarArt Dolce yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
R 5-8: 24 sc (4 rows)
R 9: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
R 10: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
Stuff with fiberfill.
R 11: (dec)*6 (6)
Cut off the thread, tighten the opening.

Ears (Make 2)
With 2.0 mm crochet hook and YarArt Jeans yarn:
R 1: 4 sc in mc (4)
R 2: (inc)*4 (8)
R 3: 8 sc
R 4: (1 sc, inc)*4 (12)
R 5: 12 sc
R 6: (2 sc, inc)*4 (16)
R 7: 16 sc
R 8: (3 sc, inc)*4 (20)
R 9-12: 20 sc (4 rows)
R 13: (8 sc, dec)*2 (18)
R 14: 18 sc
R 15: (7 sc, dec)*2 (16)
R 16-17: 16 sc (2 rows)
Don’t stuff.
Fold the ear in half and work 8 sc through both edges.
Sew on the ears to the head folding them in half again.

Head
With 2.0 mm crochet hook and YarArt Jeans yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in mc (6)
R 2: (inc)*6 (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
R 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 6: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
R 7: 24 sc
R 8: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
R 9: 30 sc
R 10: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
R 11-14: 36 sc (4 rows)
Insert safety eyes between R 8 and R 9 at the distance of 7 stitches from each other.
R 15: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
R 16: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
R 17: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
R 18: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12)
Stuff with fiberfill.
R 19: (dec)*6 (6)
Cut off the thread, tighten the opening. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle tightening
Make the tightening for the right eye, then for the left eye.
Embroider a nose using a black thread.
Sew on the head to the ball.

Collar
With 2.0 mm crochet hook and YarArt Jeans yarn:
Make 30 ch. Crochet in turning rows.
R 1: From the 3rd ch from hook: (1 hdc, inc)*14, 2 ch (42)
R 2: (1 hdc, inc)*21, 1 ch (63)
R 3: (inc)*63 (126)
Sew the collar to the ball around the head.
Attach a satin ribbon.
Congratulations
More Amigurumi Ornament İdeas:

Materials
Cotton yarn (50g/125m) skin color, hair color, body color, hat color.
Embroidery thread in black.
Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
Needle for sewing.
Fiberfill.
Stitch marker.
Scissors.
• With the specified materials the crochet gnome will be about 12 cm tall.

Body
Begin with the body color, here purple.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. 1sc, inc, (2sc,inc)*5, 1sc (24)
Rnd 5-9. 24 sc (24) (5 rnds)
Rnd 10. 6sc, (1sc,dec)*3, 9sc (21)
Rnd 11. 7sc, (dec)*3, 8sc (18)
Start stuffing the body.
Rnd 12. (1sc,dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 13. (1sc,dec)*4 (8)

Change color to skin color.
Don’t cut the thread and continue with the head.
Rnd 14. 8 sc (8)
Rnd 15. FLO: (inc)*8 (16)
Rnd 16. (1sc,inc)*8 (24)
Rnd 17. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Crochet the ears next round. Make sure that the decreases from the body part are in the middle between them. If necessary, move the stitches a little.
Rnd 18. 9sc, bobble st, 13sc, bobble st, 6sc (30)
Rnd 19-22. 30 sc (30) (4 rnds)
Rnd 23. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 24. 1sc, dec, (2sc,dec)*5, 1sc (18)
Rnd 25. (1sc,dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 26. (dec)*6 (6)
Fasten off, pull the thread through the 6 front loops to close the opening.
You can embroider the nose directly with the thread.
The nose is placed one round below the ears (rounds 17/18). Embroider 2 times over 2 stitches.
Weave in the end.
How to crochet a bobble stitch.
In this pattern a bobble stitch is crocheted with 3 dc together.
To crochet a bobble stitch, yarn over, go into the next stitch, pull up a loop and then yarn over, pull up just through the first two loops. Keep adding two more stitches going through the same stitch. When you have four loops on your needle, yarn over and pull up through them.

Hat
Hat color, here salmon.
Rnd 1. 4 sc in MR (4)
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)*2 (6)
Rnd 3. 6 sc (6)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*2 (8)
Rnd 5. 8 sc (8)
Rnd 6. (3sc,inc)*2 (10)
Rnd 7. 10 sc (10)
Rnd 8. BLO: (4sc,inc)*2 (12)
Rnd 9. (3sc,inc)*3 (15)
Rnd 10. (4sc,inc)*3 (18)
Rnd 11. BLO: (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 12-13. 24 sc (24) (2 rnds)
Rnd 14. BLO: 24 sc (24)
Rnd 15. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 16. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 17. BLO: 30 sc (30)
Rnd 18-19. 30 sc (30) (2 rnds)
Rnd 20. BLO: 30 sc (30)
Rnd 21. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 22. FLO: 30 sc (30)
Fasten off and weave the yarn end in.
Pick up the thread in a fl of round 20.
Crochet 1 slst in each fl.
Crochet into the fl of rounds 17, 14, 11 and 8 in the same way.
Sew all the threads securely inside the hat.

Hair
Version 1
Hair color, here beige.
Begin in a bl of round 22. crochet:
3 ch, sc into the next stitch until the end of the round.
Cut the thread long to sew the hat onto the head.

Version 2
Hair color, here brown.
Begin in a bl of round 22. crochet:
sc into each bl until you have passed the ear (try on the hat and check the position).

Work the fringe:
1 ch, sc, inst, (2ch, sc inst)*2, (3ch,sc inst)*2, 2 ch, sc inst, 1ch, sc inst.
Crochet sc until the end of the round.
Cut the thread long to sew the hat onto the head.

Finishing
Embroider the eyes. They are embroired right next to the nose (leave 1 stitch free) and go over round 18.
Embroider the eyebrows with black thread or thread hat matches the hair color, two rounds above the eyes.
They go diagonally over one stitch.
If you like, apply some blush to gnome’s cheeks.
Congratulations
More amigurumi gnome ideas:

Legs + body
One piece (fill as you crochet)
1) 6 MR (we begin to crochet the right leg in a milky color)
2) 6 inc=12
3) (3 sc, inc)×3=15
4) 15 (change of yarn to brown for the right leg)
5-10) 15 sc (for the left leg in the 6th row, change the yarn to a milky color, in the 7th row, change the yarn to brown)
11) 2 ch, attach the second leg and along it 15 sc, 2 sc along a chain of ch = 34
12) 34
13) 7 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 9=36
14) (5 sc, inc)*6=42
15) 42 (yarn change)
16) 42
17-18) 42 (in the 17th row, change of yarn )
19) (12 sc, dec)*3=39
20) (11 sc, dec)*3=36
21) (10 sc, dec)*3=33
22) (9 sc, dec)*3=30
23) ( 8 sc, dec)*3=27
24) ( 7 sc, dec)*3=24
25) ( 2 sc, dec)*6=18
27) 18 sc, slst, fasten the yarn and leave for sewing.

Head
1) 6 MR
2) 6 inc=12
3) (1 sc, inc)*6=18
4) ( 2 sc, inc)*6=24
5) (3 sc, inc)*6=30
6) (4 sc, inc)*6=36
7) (5 sc, inc)*6=42
8) ( 6 sc, inc)*6=48
9) (7 sc, inc)*6=54
10-17) 54
18) (7sc, dec)*6=48
19) (6 sc, dec)*6=42 (insert eyes between 16-17 rows at a distance of 11 columns)
20) (5 sc, dec)*6=36
21) (4 sc, dec)*6=30
22) (3 sc, dec)*6=24
21) (2 sc, dec)*6=18 (fill with filler)
22) (1 sc, dec)*6=12
23) 6 dec=6
Tighten the hole, hide the yarn.

Arms
1) 6 MR (we begin to crochet with a milky color)
2) 6 inc=12
3-5) 12 (in the 4th row, change the yarn to brown)
6) (4 sc, dec)*2=10 (fill only here, do not fill further)
7-8) 10
9) (3sc, dec)*2=8
10-11) 8
12) fold handle in half and crochet 4 sc. Fasten the yarn and leave for sewing. You can crochet it into the body in the 25th row.

Hat
Stuff as you crochet
1) 6 MR
2) 6 inc=12
3) (1 sc, inc)*6=18
4) ( 2 sc, inc)*6=24
5) (3 sc, inc)*6=30
6) 30 BLO
7-8) 30 (so that the bottom of the hat keep its shape, I cut out a circle of the required size from an old plastic card of some store and inserted it into the bottom of the hat)
9) (8 sc, dec)*3=27
10) (7 sc, dec)*3=24
11-17) 24 ( 15 row crochet FLO)
At the end of the slst, fasten the yarn and leave for sewing.
Tying in red slst between 14-15 rows.

Glaze
1) 6 MR
2) 6 inc=12
3) (1 sc, inc)*6=18
4) ( 2 sc, inc)*6=24
5) (3 sc, inc)*6=30
6) (4 sc, inc)*6=36
7) (5 sc, inc)*6=42
8) ( 6 sc, inc)*6=48
sc, 3 dc in 1, sc
2 sc, 2 inc dc, sc
2 sc, inc dc, inc trc, inc dc, sc
2 sc, 2 inc dc, sc
2 sc, 3 dc in 1, sc
2 sc, 2 inc dc, sc
2 sc, inc dc, inc trc, inc dc, sc
2 sc, 2 inc dc, sc
2 sc, 3 dc in 1, sc
sc, 2 inc dc, slst, fasten the yarn and leave for sewing.
Embroider sprinkles.

Buttons 2 pcs
5 sc in MR
Congratulations
More amigurumi gingerbread ideas:

Abbreviations
MR: Magic ring
Ch: Chain
BLO: Back loop only
FLO: Front loop only
Fo: Fasten off
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: Double crochet
Inc: Increase
Dec: Decrease
Rnd: Round
Sc: Single crochet
Slst: Slip stitch
St: Stitch
• This doll can be made using other materials and hook sizes, the only thing that will change is the size of the doll. We used the 3.25mm crochet hook for the whole doll, and she measures approx. 50 cm with the hat (folded).

Arms (Make 2)
Start with skin color.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4-6. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 7. 16 sc, 1 dec (17)
Rnd 8. 7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 popcorn stitch (with 5 dc) (16)
Rnd 9. 14 sc, 1 dec (15)
Rnd 10. 1 dec, 13 sc (14)
Rnd 11. 6 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (13)
Rnd 12. 11 sc, 1 dec (12)
Rnd 13. 12 sc (12)
Rnd 14. (3sc,1inc)*3 (15)
Change to red color. Stuff only the hands.
Rnd 15. BLO- 15 sc (15)
Rnd 16-28. 15 sc (15)
Rnd 29. 6 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec (13)
Rnd 30. 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec (11)
Rnd 31. 11 sc (11)
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew the arms to the body at rounds 30-31 approx.

White rim
• Put the arms upside down (the doll’s, not yours)
– Start with a new thread on front loops of round 15.
• Crochet 4 rounds of 15 hdc each.
• Fasten off. Fold.

Right leg
Start with coffee color. Work around the foundation chain.
• Chain 10
Rnd 1. 8 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, 7 sc, 1 inc (20)
Rnd 2. 1 inc, 7 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc (26)
Rnd 3. 1 inc, 1 sc, 7 sc, (1inc,1sc)*3, 7 sc, (1sc,1inc)*2 (32)
Rnd 4. 2 inc, 2 sc, 7 sc, (1inc,2sc)*3, 7 sc, (2sc,1inc)*2 (38)
Rnd 5. 1 inc, 3 sc, 7 sc, (1inc,3sc)*3, 7 sc, (3sc,1inc)*2 (44)
V:inc
X:sc

Change to red.
Rnd 6. BLO- 44 sc (44)
Rnd 7-9. 44 sc (44)
Rnd 10. 13 sc, (1dec, 1sc)*6, 13 sc (38)
Rnd 11. 11 sc, (1dec, 1sc)*5, 12 sc (33)
Rnd 12. 10 sc, (1dec, 1sc)*4, 9 sc, 1 dec (28)
Rnd 13. (2sc,1dec)*7 (21)
Rnd 14-15. 21 sc (21)
Alternate the thread color according the the table below.
Rnd 16. BLO- 21 sc (21)
Rnd 17. 21 sc (21)
Rnd 18. (5sc,1dec)*3 (18)
Rnd 19-20. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 21-22. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 23-24. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 25-26. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 27. (7sc,1dec)*2 (16)
Rnd 28. 16 sc (16)
Rnd 29-30. 16 sc (16)
Rnd 31-32. 16 sc (16)
Rnd 33-34. 16 sc (16)
Rnd 35-36. 16 sc (16)
Rnd 37-38. 16 sc (16)
Rnd 39-40. 16 sc (16)
Rnd 41-42. 16 sc (16)
Fasten off (only fasten off the right leg).

White rim
• Put the doll’s legs upside down start with a new white thread front loops of round 16 and crochet 5 rounds of 15 hdc each.
• Fasten off. Fold.

Left leg and body
Same as right leg but do not fasten off at the end of rnd 42.
Change color to white.
Rnd 1. 16 sc (left leg), chain 4, 16 sc (other leg), 4 sc (in the ch) (40)
Rnd 2. (5sc,inc)*6, 4 sc (46)
Rnd 3-5. 46 sc (46)
Rnd 6. 1 sc, 1 inc, 19 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc (48)
Rnd 7-13. 48 sc (48)
Change color to red.
Rnd 14. BLO- 48 sc (48)
Rnd 15. 48 sc (48)
Rnd 16. (6sc, 1dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 17-21. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 22. (5sc,1dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 23-25. 36 sc (36)
Rnd 26. (4sc,1dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 27-29. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 30. (3sc,1dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 31-33. 24 sc (24)
Rnd 34. (2sc,1dec)*6 (18)
Change to skin color.
Rnd 35. BLO- 18 sc (18)
Rnd 36. (4sc,1dec)*3 (15)
Rnd 37. (3sc,1dec)*3 (12)

Head
Keep going with skin color.
Rnd 1. (1sc, 1inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 2. (2sc, 1inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 3. (3sc, 1inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 4. (4sc, 1inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 5. (5sc, 1inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 6. (6sc, 1inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 7. (7sc, 1inc)*6 (54)
Rnd 8. (8sc, 1inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 9-18. 60 sc (60)
Place the 12 mm safety eyes between rows 14 and 15, with 7 stitches in between. Sew the eyelashes.
Rnd 19. (8sc, 1dec)*6 (54)
Rnd 20. (7sc, 1dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 21. (6sc, 1dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 22. (5sc, 1dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 23. (4sc, 1dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 24. (3sc, 1dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 25. (2sc, 1dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 26. (1sc, 1dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 27. 1 dec*6 (6)
Fasten off, and leave a long tail to close the head.
Add the eyebrows, 2 stitches above the eyes (4st long, 1st wide)
Finally, add the nose between rows 12 and 13 (3 stitches long) and a touch of blush.

Turtleneck
In white color.
Rnd 1. Chain 7
Rnd 2. (in 2nd ch from the hook) 6 hdc, chain 1, turn (6)
Rnd 3. BLO- 6 hdc, chain 1, turn (6)
Keep repeating rnd 3 until you have the right size (it has to cover the neck entirely)
Fasten off and leave a long tail. Sew it together around the neck.

Skirt
Start with a new red thread and go back to front loops of round 14 on the body, put the doll upside down.
The chains at the beginning don’t count as a st.
Rnd 1. Chain 3, (7 dc, 1 inc)*6, slst (54)
Rnd 2-6. Chain 3, 54 dc, slst (54)
Rnd 7. Chain 3, (1 popcorn st, chain 1, 1 dc)*27, slst.
Fasten off.

Hair
There is a cap and 2 layers of hair strands (S). The cap has to fit very tight into the head. Start with mauve color.

Cap
The chains at the beginning don’t count as a st.
Rnd 1. MR, 9 dc, slst (9)
Rnd 2. Chain 3, 9 incdc, slst (18)
Rnd 3. Chain 3, (1 dc, 1 incdc)*9, slst (27)
Rnd 4. Chain 3, (2 dc, 1 incdc)*9, slst (36)
Rnd 5. Chain 3, (3 dc, 1 incdc)*9, slst (45)
Rnd 6-8. Chain 3, 45 dc, slst (45)
Rnd 9. Chain 1, BLO 45 sc, slst (45)

First layer- 45 long hair strands
All of the strands are BLO. (See picture below so you can see how to position the cap and which one is the BLO).
Start the sc on 2nd ch from hook.
S 1-45. Chain 40, 39 sc, slst (39)
Do not fasten off, keep on with the second layer.

Second layer- 10 short strands (bangs)
All of the strands are FLO. (see picture below so you can see how to position the cap and which one is the BLO).
Start the sc on 2nd ch from hook.
S 1. Chain 14, 13 sc, slst (13)
S 2. Chain 12, 11 sc, slst (11)
S 3-8. Chain 7, (start on 3rd ch from hook)
5 hdc, skip a st on the cap, slst on next st (5)
S 9. Chain 12, 11 sc, slst (11)
S 10. Chain 14, 13 sc, slst (13)

Hat
Start with red color.
Chain 66, slst on the 1st chain to from a circle.
Rnd 1-10. 66 sc (66)
Rnd 11. (9sc,1dec)*6 (60)
Rnd 12-16. 60 sc (60)
Rnd 17. (8sc, 1dec)*6 (54)
Rnd 18-22. 54 sc (54)
Rnd 23. (7sc, 1dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 24-26. 48 sc (48)
Rnd 27. (6sc, 1dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 28-30. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 31. (5sc, 1dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 32-34. 36 sc (36)
Rnd 35. (4sc, 1dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 36-38. 30 sc (30)
Rnd 39. (3sc, 1dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 40-42. 24 sc (24)
Rnd 43. (2sc, 1dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 44-46. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 47. (1sc, 1dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 48-50. 12 sc (12)
Rnd 51. 6 dec (6)
Fasten off, and leave a long tail to close it up.

White rim
• Go back to the bottom loops of the 66 chains.
• Start with a new white thread (with the hat upside down)
• 5 rounds of 66 hdc.
• Fasten off, fold.

Pompom
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,1inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4-5. 18 sc (18)
Rnd 6. (1sc,1dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 7. 6 dec (6)
Fasten off, and leave a very long tail so you can:
– Close up the pompom.
– Chain 10 (still with the same long tail).
– Sew this pompom+ chains to the tip of the hat.
More Amigurumi Elf İdeas:

Abbreviations
R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
(…) – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Head
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
R 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) repeat 5 times, 1 sc (24)
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (30)
R 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) repeat 5 times, 2 sc (36)
R 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (42)
R 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) repeat 5 times, 3 sc (48)
R 9-14: 48 sc (6 rows)
R 15: 2 sc, (inc, 6 sc) repeat 3 times, 3 sc, (inc, 6 sc) repeat 3 times, 1 sc (54)
R 16-17: 54 sc (2 rows)
Insert safety eyes between R 16 and R 17 at the distance of 4 sc from each other.
R 18: 7 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) repeat 3 times, 17 sc, (inc, 2 sc) repeat 3 times, 11 sc (61)
R 19-25: 61 sc (7 rows)
R 26: 7 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) repeat 3 times, 17 sc, (dec, 2 sc) repeat 3 times, dec, 9 sc (53)
R 27-28: 53 sc (2 rows)
R 29: (11 sc, dec) repeat 4 times, 1 sc (49)
R 30: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times, 1 sc (43)
R 31: 9 sc, (dec, 1 sc) repeat 4 times, 9 sc, (dec, 1 sc) repeat 4 times, 1 sc (35)
R 32: (5 sc, dec) repeat 5 times (30)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Nose
Make 7 ch.
Make an oval, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
R 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: inc, 4 sc, 4 sc in last st, turn: 4 sc, inc (16)
R 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc (24)
R 3-4: 24 sc (2 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (9)
R 3: (2 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (12)
R 4: (3 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (15)
R 5: (4 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (18)
R 6: (4 sc, dec) repeat 3 times (15)
R 7: 15 sc
R 8: (3 sc, dec) repeat 3 times (12)
R 9: 12 sc
Fourfold the top opening flat and sew both sides together (view video at 03:15).
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Horns (make 2)
With YarnArt Jeans #90 and YarnArt Camellia yarn.
Main part
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
R 4-6: 18 sc (3 rows)
R 7: 3 dec, 12 sc (15)
R 8: 3 dec, 9 sc (12)
R 9: 12 sc
R 10: (1 sc, dec)*4 (8)
R 11-12: 8 sc (2 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Small part
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times (9)
R 3-4: 9 sc (2 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the small part to the main one.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times (12)
R 3: 3 inc, 9 sc (15)
R 4: 15 sc
R 5: 3 dec, 9 sc (12)
R 6-15: 12 sc (10 rows)
Stuff the arm with fiberfill till the R 8.
R 16: 2 sc only
Fold the top opening flat and 6 sc through both sides.
Fasten off.

Legs and body
Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times (12)
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)
R 4-6: 18 sc (3 rows)
Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.
Make 3 ch and join with the first leg.

Continue crocheting the body in the round:
R 7: 18 sc on the first leg, 3 sc in 3 ch, 18 sc on the second leg, 3 sc in 3 ch (opposite side) (42)
R 8: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (48)
R 9: (7 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (54)
R 10-17: 54 sc (8 rows)
R 18: (7 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (48)
R 19: 48 sc
R 20: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (42)
R 21: 42 sc
R 22: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (36)
R 23: 36 sc
R 24: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (30)
R 25: 30 sc
In the next row we will attach arms:
R 26: 5 sc, 6 sc together with sc of the 1st arm, 9 sc, 6 sc together with sc of the 2nd arm, 4 sc (30)
R 27-28: 30 sc (2 rows)
Fasten off.

Scarf
With YarnArt Jeans #90 and YarnArt Camellia yarn.
Make 90 ch.
Starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
R 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: hdc in every st, 3 hdc in last st, turn and crochet on the opposite side of chain: hdc in every st, 2 hdc and sl st in last st.
Fasten off.

Assembly
Sew nose under eyes, put some fiberfill inside the nose before you finish.
Embroider eyebrows and mouth with black floss.
Sew horns on the head between R 5 and R 8.
Sew ears under horns, about 1 row down from horns.

More Amigurumi Reindeer İdeas:

Additional Information:
Difficulty: Easy

• Before we get started…
You will need a wreath. I bought a foam wreath (10 inch) from Dollar Tree. However, a wire wreath is better suited for the frilly wreath we’ll be doing. There are video tutorials online showing how to put mesh around a wire wreath, but I will show you how I did mine with a foam wreath.
You’ll also need colorful mesh to go around the wreath. I got 2 rolls from Dollar tree as well. The little bells you can also get from Dollar Tree.

• Let’s Get Started!
We will first start by making a shoe, this shoe will lead into the lead. We will then make a second leg and crochet both legs together to form the waist area. After this we will make the curly part of the shoe, the green triangles around the waist, and put the mesh around the wreath. Lastly, we will attach the elf to the wreath!

Elf Shoe:
IN RED
In round 1 we will make a foundation chain. This means we will make a chain, work down one side of the chain, then we turn to the other side of the chain and continue down that side. This will make a round. We are NOT turning the work and crocheting over the stitches we just made! That would be working a row.
Round 1: Ch 22 Pic 1. Dc in the 3rd Ch from the hook. Dc in the next 18 Ch Pic 2. Dc 3 times in the last Ch Pic 3. Now turn the chain to the opposite side, where we haven’t worked any double crochets yet Pic 4. Dc in the next 18 st Pic 5-6 (40)

Supplies:
• Yarn 4/Medium Weight Yarn in…
Red, Green, Dark Green, and White
•4mm Crochet Hook
•Tapestry needle
•Scissors
•Stuffing
•10 inch Wreath
•Mesh for Wreath

Additional Information:
Difficulty: Easy

• Before we get started…
You will need a wreath. I bought a foam wreath (10 inch) from Dollar Tree. However, a wire wreath is better suited for the frilly wreath we’ll be doing. There are video tutorials online showing how to put mesh around a wire wreath, but I will show you how I did mine with a foam wreath.
You’ll also need colorful mesh to go around the wreath. I got 2 rolls from Dollar tree as well. The little bells you can also get from Dollar Tree.

• Let’s Get Started!
We will first start by making a shoe, this shoe will lead into the lead. We will then make a second leg and crochet both legs together to form the waist area. After this we will make the curly part of the shoe, the green triangles around the waist, and put the mesh around the wreath. Lastly, we will attach the elf to the wreath!

Elf Shoe:
IN RED
In round 1 we will make a foundation chain. This means we will make a chain, work down one side of the chain, then we turn to the other side of the chain and continue down that side. This will make a round. We are NOT turning the work and crocheting over the stitches we just made! That would be working a row.

Round 1: Ch 22 Pic 1. Dc in the 3rd Ch from the hook. Dc in the next 18 Ch Pic 2. Dc 3 times in the last Ch Pic 3. Now turn the chain to the opposite side, where we haven’t worked any double crochets yet Pic 4. Dc in the next 18 st Pic 5-6 (40)

Round 2: *Inc, Dc in the next 4 st* 8 times (48)
Round 2 Pictured Below

Round 3: In the BLO (Back Loop Only) Sc in the next 48 st (48)
Round 4-6: In BOTH Loops, *Sc* all around (48)
Round 7: Sc in the next 17 st, Repeat *Dec, Sc in the next st* 6 times. Sc in the next 13 st (42)
Round 8: Sc in the next 17 st, *Dec* 6 times, Sc in the next 13 st (36)
Round 8 Pictured Below

Round 9: Sc in the next 16 st Pic 1. Count the next 9 st and Sc into that 9th st . Sc in the next 11 st (28)
This will create a leg on the shoe. We will also have a hole near the front. Don’t worry, we will just sew it closed later!

Round 10: Sc in the next 16 st  Sc in the next st that connects the shoe . Sc in the next 11 st  (28)
Round 11-13: *Sc* all around (28)
Stuff the shoe here  Now we will sew the front hole of the shoe closed. Take a needle with red yarn and sew through the stitches that align . Grab both tail ends of yarn and pull firmly at the same time to tighten the yarn. Now tie each tail end of yarn into firm knots and bring into the shoe to hide.
Now we make the leg. It’s easy, but we make frequent color changes

Round 14: Change to White. In the BLO *Sc* all around (28)
Round 15: In BOTH Loops, *Sc* all around (28)
Round 16-17: Change to Green. *Sc* all around (28)
Round 18-19: Change to White. *Sc* all around (28)
Round 20-21: Change to Green. *Sc* all around (28)
Round 22: Change to White. *Sc* all around (28)
Round 23: Repeat *Inc, Sc 3* 7 times (35)
Round 24-25: Change to Green. *Sc* all around (35)
Round 26-27: Change to White. *Sc* all around (35)
Round 28-29: Change to Green. *Sc* all around (35)
Round 30-31: Change to White. *Sc* all around (35)
Round 32: Change to Green. Repeat *Inc, Sc 4* 7 times (42)
Round 33: *Sc* all around (42)
Round 34: Change to White. *Inc, Sc 5* 7 times (49)
Round 35: *Sc* all around (49)
Round 36-37: Change to Green. *Sc* all around (49)
Round 38-39: Change to White. *Sc* all around (49)
Round 40: Change to DARK Green. In the BLO. *Sc* all around (49)
Round 41-42: In BOTH Loops, *Sc* all around (49)
Round 43-47: Change to Red. *Sc* all around (49)
Round 48: In BOTH Loops, *Inc, Sc in the next 6 st* 7 times (56)
Here is where we will do a different pattern depending on which leg you’re making:
First leg, Round 49: In BOTH Loops, *Sc* all around (56)
Finish off the first leg here, keep the stitch marker in this leg, we will need it later. Stuff now.
Continue on the next section for the second leg.
Second leg, Round 49: Sc in the next 3 st  Take the first leg made and count 12 stitches to the right of the stitch marker 

Next we will Sc going through BOTH the first and second leg.
While your hook is still in the working loop of the second leg , also insert your hook into that 12th stitch on the first leg . Now insert hook into the next stitch of the first leg . Yarn over and pull up a loop 
Yarn over and pull through both loops at the same time . This makes 1 single crochet.
Continue working through BOTH the first and second leg. Sc in the next 10 st . Continuing on the second leg (the left leg), Sc in the next 42 st 

Round 50: Sc in the next 3 st . Now we will work on the other leg. Sc in the next 45 st  Now we meet the other leg. Sc in the next 42 st
Round 51-60: *Sc* all around (90)
Stuff here. Continue stuffing after each round.
Round 61: In the BLO, *Dec, Sc 7* 10 times (80)
Round 62: In BOTH Loops, *Dec, Sc 6* 10 times (70)
Round 63: *Dec, Sc 5* 10 times (60)
Round 64: *Dec, Sc 4* 10 times (50)
Round 65: *Dec, Sc 3* 10 times (40)
Round 66: *Dec, Sc 2* 10 times (30)
Round 67: *Dec, Sc 1* 10 times (20)
Round 68: *Dec* all around (10)
Round 69: *Dec* all around (5)
Finish off and sew closed.
Shoe Tip:
IN RED
Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)
Round 2: *Inc, Sc* all around (9)
Round 3-9: *Sc* all around (9)
Round 10: Repeat *Inc, Sc in the next st* 4 times, Sc in the last st (13)
Round 11: *Inc in the next st, Sc in the next 2 st* 4 times, Sc last st (17)
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Pin this piece to the tip of the shoe as shown . Sew on, and after sewing on bring the yarn up to the very tip of the piece . Bring this yarn through a bell , and reinsert needle into the tip to secure the bell . Pin the piece down as shown , and sew on going from the shoe to the tip piece . Weave in any ends

Waist Frills: (Make 8)
IN GREEN
Row 1: Ch 2. Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook (1)
Row 2: Ch 1 & turn. *Inc* in the next st (2)
Row 3: Ch 1 & turn. *Sc* in the next 2 st (2)
Row 4: Ch 1 & turn. *Inc* in the next 2 st (4)
Row 5: Ch 1 & turn. *Sc* in the next st (4)
Row 6: Ch 1 & turn. *Inc* in the next st, Sc in the next 2 st, *Inc* in the next st (6)
Row 7: Ch 1 & turn. *Sc* in the next 6 st (6)
Row 8: Ch 1 & turn. *Inc* in the next st, Sc in the next 4 st, *Inc* in the last st (8)
Row 9: Ch 1 & turn. Sc in the next 8 st (8)
Row 10: Ch 1 & turn. *Inc* in the first st, Sc in the next 6 st, *Inc* in the next st (10)
Row 11: Ch 1 & turn. Sc in the next 10 st (10)
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:
Take the tail end of yarn left at the very tip of the triangle and sew it through a bell Weave this tail end of yarn back through the triangle to secure. Pin the triangle to the waist, right on Round 60 Sew the triangle on, going through the front loops left from Round 61

Leg Assembly:
IN GREEN
To make the elf look like he’s fallen in the wreath, we need to bend his leg slightly. Here is how we do that!
Insert needle with green yarn into the 5th white stripe on the right leg, and pull needle out a stitch to the left  Reinsert needle on the 3rd right stripe, lining up to where you’d previously pulled in and out the needle. Reinsert needle on the 5th white stripe, next to where you previously had sewed. Pull the needle out about 2 stitches to the left . Reinsert needle into the 3rd stripe, next to where you previously had sewed. Pull the needle out about 2 stitches to the left  Repeat this process until you’ve sewed the back of the leg. Pull both tail ends of yarn firmly at the same time to tighten the leg. Tie the ends of yarn into firm knots and weave in to hide.

Wreath Assembly:
If you know how to make your own wreath, feel free to do so! However, this was my first wreath ever and I just made do with the supplies I had.
Take a wreath (I am using a foam wreath from Dollar Tree, they also have wire wreaths that are better suited for making frilly wreaths like this. I just didn’t know at the time that a foam wreath is more for flowers). Now take mesh and bunch it up at the very tip and place it on the wreath. Place a pin to secure this mesh, try to make sure the pin goes through all layers of the mesh
Grab a section of the mesh and bring it to close to the previous mesh you pinned, it should make what looks like a loop . Bunch this area up close to the wreath , and place a pin going through all layers of the mesh . Repeat this process all around. I did red mesh first and closer to the center, then repeated the same process with green mesh at the outside of the wreath.

Attaching Elf to Wreath:
We will attach the elf to the wreath by tying him to it. This secures it really well and you won’t see the yarn as long as you use a color that matches your wreath’s mesh.

Do these steps only on the left and right side of the elf. You can also do these steps for the top of the elf if you need to secure it more.
Take a 8″ piece of yarn and place it on a needle  Bring this yarn through the wreath as shown  Insert the needle through the elf and pull the needle out about 4 stitches to the left . This yarn through now be at the top of the wreath. Grab both tail ends of yarn and pull them very firmly so the elf is close to the wreath . Tie these tail ends of yarn firmly together a few times and cut the excess yarn
Repeat this a total of 2 times on the left and right side of the elf, as well as once at the top of the elf.

More Amigurumi Elf İdeas

Measurements:
Total Size: 18.5” x 8”
Upper Band: 5.5” x 14.5”
Stocking: 15” x 8”

Gauge:
C2C Upper Band: 5 c2c tiles x 5 c2c tiles = 4”
Stocking: 13 dc, 6.25 rows = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary:
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
tile – one square on the corner to corner graph: 3 ch (the tch) + 3 dc
rep – repeat
PM – place marker

Overall Pattern Notes:
• The upper band is worked first using the corner to corner technique. Once you’ve reached Round 5 in the stocking section, it’s important to measure the stocking inside the upper band to ensure that it’s small enough to fit comfortably. If it’s not fitting well, use a smaller hook size for the stocking. (If you achieve the gauge listed above for both sections, you should have no trouble fitting them together.)

UPPER BAND

• To work this corner to corner graph, begin with the pixel (tile) in the lower right corner.
• Each pixel in the graph corresponds with one tile in the upper band. A tile = 3 ch (the tch) + 3 dc
• Because the back of the c2c piece will be hidden inside the stocking, you may choose to take some liberties in how tidy you are with switching colors and weaving in ends. 
Using larger hook, complete upper band according to graph pattern.
Fasten off last MC tile and last AC tile leaving a 20” tail on both. Weave in remaining ends.

Seaming top
With RS facing out, fold upper band in half so that the sides meet in the middle. Use a tapestry needle and the tail of AC yarn, seam the sides together with the mattress stitch.

STOCKING

Notes:
• The stocking toe is worked in the round in a spiral, meaning that you won’t chain 1 at the beginning of each round. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round to keep track of where a new round begins and move the stitch marker up as you work.

Toe
Foundation: Using MC yarn and the smaller hook, make a magic circle.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc in circle, PM. (12)
Round 2: [1 sc, 1 dc] in first dc, 2 dc in each of next 11 dc. (24)
Round 3: [1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next dc] 6 times. (36)
Round 4: [1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc] 6 times. (42)
Round 5: 1 dc in each dc. (42)
Measure toe section inside upper band as described in the overall pattern notes.
Rounds 6-11: Rep Round 5.
Do not fasten off. Remove stitch marker.

Heel
Notes:
• The heel is worked back and forth in rows, continuing from where the toe left off.  After Row 1, the heel will be completed between the two stitch markers.
• The ch 3 at the beginning of a row always counts as 1 dc.
Row 1 (cont. in same direction as toe was worked—do not turn): 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, PM in 11^th dc; 1 dc in each of next 20 dc, PM in 31^st dc; turn. (20 dc between markers)
Rows 2-4: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 19 dc; turn. (20 dc)
Row 5: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc; turn. (18 dc)
Row 6: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc; turn. (16 dc)
Row 7: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc. (14 dc)
Fasten off, leaving a 15” tail.

Seaming Heel
Fold heel flap in half and use a tapestry needle and the tail from the heel section to seam the back of the heel with the mattress stitch. 

Ankle

Notes:
• The ankle is worked in the round just as the toe section was. The first round will be worked along the top edge of the toe section and along the top of the heel section.
• When working into the heel section, place stitches at a frequency of 2 dc in the first row of the heel section, 1 dc in the second row, 2 dc in the third row, and so on to create the necessary 42 dc by the end of the round. (See photo below.)
• As you’re working into the heel rows, instead of working under the first st of each heel row, I find it useful to insert my hook into the middle post of the second dc in each heel row. This ensures that there are minimal gaps created by the intersection of the different rows and rounds. (See photo below.)

Attach MC yarn at the intersection of the heel section and the toe section on the left side of the stocking (right side for left-handed crocheters).

Round 1: Ch 3, 1 dc in first empty dc along top of toe section, 1 dc in each dc along top of toe section edge; dc along top edge of heel as described in the notes above in order to create 42 total dc when you arrive back where you originally attached the yarn. (42)
Rounds 2-13: 1 dc in each dc. (42)
Do not turn.
Row 14: 1 sc in each of next 2 dc, 1 sl st in each of next 2 dc. (4)
Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail.

JOINING UPPER BAND & STOCKING
Place stocking inside top as pictured below. (Nine rows of the stocking ankle should be visible below the upper band.) Pin in place using safety pins or stitch markers.
Using a tapestry needle and a strand of AC yarn, sew top to the stocking, taking care to work small, inconspicuous, stitches into only the AC tiles on the c2c band.
Repeat this process using MC yarn (the tail from the stocking or upper band) and working only into MC tiles on the c2c upper band. I find it looks best to place all your seaming stitches around the top of the stocking edge, which ends up being about the middle of the c2c piece.

Hanging Loop
You’ll want to create a hanging loop that will be long enough to be sewn to the interior edge of the stocking (not just the upper band) when folded in half. This will make the hanger sturdier and ensure the stocking doesn’t stretch out when hung. For the sample, 30 ch achieved this.

Foundation: Using AC and smaller hook, ch 30 (or the number of chains necessary.)
Row 1: Sk 1 ch, 1 sc each ch; turn. (29)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc. (29)

Fasten off leaving a 20” tail. Fold hanger in half to form a loop. Place hanger in stocking so that the bottom of the hanger meets the top of the stocking edge. Using existing tail, sew into the stocking and c2c top.