Nostrils (make 2):
Ch2, work 8 sc into 1st ch, join round with a ss into the first sc – 8
st.
FO one of them leaving a length of yarn.
Do not FO the second nostril. To join them together sc into the 1st
stitch after the ss on the first nostril, sc into next 7 st. Sc into the
1st stitch after the ss on the second nostril, sc into next 7 st. You
now have the start of the nose with 16 st. Use the length of yarn to
sew up the gap between the two parts.

Body (continue from nose):
Round 1: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 2: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 3: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 4: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 5 – 6: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next
st, sc in next 4 st – 14 st.
Round 8 – 10: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 14 st.
If using safety eyes, fit now between round 8 and 9 on either side
of the head.
Round 11: Sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 12 st.
Round 12: Sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next
3 st – 10 st.
Round 13 – 17: (5 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 18: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 19 – 20: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 21: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 15 st.
Round 22: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times,
sc in next 3 st – 18 st.
Round 23: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 24: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times – 24 st.
Round 25 – 26: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 27: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 28 st.
Round 28 – 31: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 28 st.
Round 32: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 4 times – 24 st.
Round 33: Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 34: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 4 times – 20 st.
Round 35: Sc in each st around – 20 st.
Round 36: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 4 times – 16 st.
Round 37: Sc in each st around – 16 st.
Round 38: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 39: Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 40: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 41 – 50: (10 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 51: Sc2tog, sc in next 10 st – 11 st.
Round 52 – 53: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 11 st.
Round 54: Sc2tog, sc in next 9 st – 10 st.
Round 55 – 56: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 57: Sc2tog, sc in next 8 st – 9 st.
Round 58 – 59: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 60: Sc2tog, sc in next 7 st – 8 st.
Round 61 – 63: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 64: Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st – 7 st.
Round 65 – 73: (9 rounds) Sc in each st around – 7 st.
Round 74: Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st – 6 st.
Round 75 – 76: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 6 st.
FO, finish stuffing and sew up end of tail.

Back Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch – 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 7 – 8: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 9: Sc in next 6 st, [2 sc in next st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 11 – 12: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 3 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 5 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 2 st – 14 st.
Round 14: Sc in next 2 st, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next 3 st,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in next st – 10 st.
Round 15: [Sc2tog] 5 times – 5 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Front Legs (make 2):
Stuff as you go along.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch – 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 3 – 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [sc2tog] 2 times – 8 st.
Round 7 – 12: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around – 8 st.
Round 13: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 2 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top
of leg.
Spikes on back:
Small – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into 3rd ch from hook,
ch1.
Large – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, YOH, hook into next ch, YOH
and pull through st, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, into same st,
YOH and pull through st, YOH and through all loops on hook, ch1.
You make the spikes continuously.
Work 3 small, 10 large, 3 small, ch 2, sc into 2nd ch from hook, ch
1, FO. Leave a length of yarn to sew to the body. Depending on the
length of your dragon you may need to adjust the number of spikes
you make to fit along your dragon’s back from behind the eyes to
the tip of the tail.

Wings (make 2):
Ch 20.
Row 1: Miss 1st ch, sc in next 7 ch, hdc in next 6 ch, dc in next 6
ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 3: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 4: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch (to make claws),
fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 6: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1,
turn.
Row 7: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 8: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 10: Fpdc in next 6 st, fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st, ch
1, turn.
Row 11: Fpsc in next 7 st, hdc in next 6 st, dc in next 6 st, ch 3,
turn.
Row 12: Miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in next ch, fpdc in next 6 st,
fphdc in next 6 st, fpsc in next 7 st.
Sc into every other row along the base of the wing – 6 st.
Ss along the back of the original ch (19 st) until you get to the tip of
the wing. Make claw – ch 3, turn, miss 1st ch, ss in next ch, sc in
next ch. FO leaving a good length of yarn. Use this to secure the
last claw to the rest of the wing, then take yarn through wing to its
base, ready to sew onto body. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2):
Ch 6, turn.
Skip 1st st, sc, dc, sc, ss. Leave the last ch and ss into the back of
the previous 4 st. FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Completing your dragon:
All the body parts ready to be assembled – the wing on the left shows the
top and the wing on the right shows the ridged underside.
Sew the spikes along the back from just behind the ears to the tip
of the tail. Take your time to make sure they are straight and in the
exact middle of the back. This will be helpful when you try to
position the wings and the legs.
If you haven’t used safety eyes, embroider eyes or sew on beads
for eyes. Embroider a roughly diamond shape in a contrasting
colour, then use black for the pupils so they look a bit like cat’s
eyes.
Sew the ears onto head above eyes, going over the last chain
several times to create the brow bone shape. Weave in any ends

Sew the legs on in the positions shown.
Sew on the wings a little distance from either side of the spikes with
the front edge about level with the front legs. The ridged side
should be the underside of the wings.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
inc = increase (2 sc in one st)
dec = decrease (2 sc together)
dc inc = 2 dc in one st
sl st = slip stitch

Head
1 row: we collect a chain of 5 air loops (hereinafter – ch). Next, we begin to tie the chain, starting with the second from the loop hook. 1 increase, 2 single crochet (hereinafter – sc), 2 increments in one loop at the end of the chain. Then we knit on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, 1 increase (12).
2 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 2 sc) 6 times (24).
4-5 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
6 row: we knit 1 sc to align the knitting, then we knit 3 sc, 6 increments, 15 sc (30).
The location of the increase on the dragon’s face is shown in the photo.
7 row: 3 sc, (1 increase, 1 sc) – repeat 6 times, 15 sc (36).
8 row: (5 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 6 times (42).
9 row: (6 sc, 1 increase) – 6 times (48).
10-14 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (48).
15 row: repeat (6 sc, decrease) 6 times (42).
16 row: repeat (5 sc, decrease) 6 times (36).
17 row: repeat (4 sc, decrease) 6 times (30).

We fill the dragon’s head with filler in the area of the muzzle. We fix the cotter pin between 12 and 13 rows.
18 row: repeat (3 sc, decrease) 6 times (24).
19 row: repeat (2 sc, decrease) 6 times (18).
We stuff the connected part of the dragon’s head.
20 row: repeat (1 sc, decrease) 6 times (12).
21 row: decrease until the hole is completely closed.
Knitting the nostrils for the dragon (2 parts).
We type 4 ch and, starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit 3 sc on one side of the chain.

Muzzle
After we have tied the head and nostrils for the dragon, we can proceed to the design of the muzzle of the toy. To begin, let’s choose the position of the eye. This is a very important point when creating a toy. I will use 5 mm diameter sewing eyes with an eyelet. The shape of these eyes resemble mushrooms.
Along with sewing the eye, we will make the muzzle tightening.
Choosing the position of the eye with the needles, it is better to place them a little further apart, since when pulling together they will slightly change the position, become closer.

We fix the thread in the cotter pin area and put the needle in the place where the eye will be located. It is better for this purpose to use a long needle for sewing soft toys.
We put the eye on the needle, then again insert the needle into the head and bring it to the area of attachment of the second eye.
We put our eyes on the needle and pierce the head of the toy again, returning to the first eye. We are tightening. Repeat this operation several times.

Arms
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (15).
4-5 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (15).
6 row: 3 decreases, 9 sc (12).
7-8 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (12).
9 row: 1 sc, 2 decreases, 7 sc (10).
10-11 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (10).
After knitting 11 rows, we fill the lower part of the dragon’s paw. We will not stuff the upper part of the foot.
12 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (10).
We fix the cotter pin between 11 and 12 rows. Note that where we knitted the decreases – this is the front of the knitted dragon’s paw.
13 row: we knit decreases until the hole is completely closed.

Legs
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
4 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (18).
5 row: 7 sc, 2 decrease, 7 sc (16).
6 row: 6 sc, 2 decreases, 6 sc (14).
7-8 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (14).
9 row: 6 sc, 2 increments, 6 sc (16).
10 row: 7 sc, 2 increments, 7 sc (18).
11-13 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (18).
Stuff the connected part of the foot.
14 row: (1 sc, 1 decrease) – repeat 6 times (12).
We stuff the part, fix the cotter pin between 13 and 14 rows.
15 row: decrease until the hole is completely closed.

Torso
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
4th row: repeat (1 increase, 2 sc) 6 times (24).
5-9 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
10 row: repeat (1 increase, 3 sc) 6 times (30).
11 row: repeat (1 increase, 4 sc) 6 times (36).
We fix the upper legs of the dragon between the 7th and 8th rows.
12 row: 12 sc, (1 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 6 times, 12 sc (42).
13-14 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (42).
15 row: repeat (1 increase, 4 sc) 6 times (48).
16-20 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (48).
21 row: repeat (6 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (42).
22 row: repeat (5 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (36).
23 row: repeat (4 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (30).
24 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (24).
We fix the legs of a knitted dragon between 22 and 23 rows.
25 row: repeat (2 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (18).
26 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (12).
27 row: we crochet a decrease until the hole is completely closed.

Tail
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (9).
3 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (9).
4th row: repeat (2 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (12).
5 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (12).
6 row: 4 sc, 4 increases, 4 sc (16).
7 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (16).
8 row: 4 sc, (1 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 4 times, 4 sc (20).
9-10 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (20).
11 row: 4 sc, (2 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 4 times, 4 sc (24).
12 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
We knit the connecting column in the last loop and finish knitting the tail for the dragon.

Horns
We will knit horns (or growths on the dragon’s head) from bobbin velor (it is thinner than plush yarn) using a hook No. 1.25.
The very first horn on the dragon’s head, which is located on the forehead, is slightly smaller than the rest. Such a small horn, we need to tie only one. It fits in this way:
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (9).
3 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (9).
4th row: repeat (2 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (12).

Big horns 6 pieces. In order to connect them, it is necessary to tie a small horn (all 4 rows), and then, without tearing off the working thread, proceed to knitting the 5th row:
5 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (15).
Sewing horns to the dragon’s head, I advise this: firstly, the horns must be secured with a pin so that the part of the toy does not accidentally shift during sewing. And secondly, for sewing on these small parts it is better to use a regular thread in tone yarn horns and a needle for sewing. Sewing details with plush or velor yarn is extremely difficult.

Wings and Ears
The wings and ears for the dragon fit in one pattern.
1 row: we collect 6 ch Starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit: 2 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 2 sc (7). Expand knitting.
2 row: 3 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 3 sc (9). Expand knitting.
3 row: 4 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 4 sc (11). Finish knitting parts.
Claws on paws, stripes on the tummy, eyebrows and eyes of the dragon are made using the technique of dry felting.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas

Materials Needed:
Yarn: worsted weight #4, Color A: Green, Color B: Cream, Color C: Pink
Hook Size: D Hook or 3.25 mm
12 mm safety eyes
Scissors, sewing needle, stitch marker, fiberfill stuffing

Abbreviations:
mr= magic ring- crochet single crochet stitches in to the adjustable loop
ch= chain stitch
sc= single crochet stitch
sl= slip stitch
dc= double crochet stitch
inc= increase- make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch
dec=decrease- crochet two stitches together using the decrease method
BLO= back loops only
inc3= 3 sc in the same stitch
F/O= Fasten off
FLO= Front Loops Only
bob st= bobble stitch
(4 sc, inc) x 6= repeat the pattern between parentheses 6 times

Notes:
• Do not join rounds unless stated, work in a continuous spiral
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round
• All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise in the pattern

Head:
Crocheted from front of nose to back of head
Starting with Color B:
1- Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2- Increase in each st around= 12
3- (sc, inc) x 6= 18
4- (2 sc, inc) x 6= 24
5- (3 sc, inc) x 6= 30
6- FLO 4 sc, bob st, 8 sc, bob st, 16 sc= 30
7-9. sc in each st around
Change to Color A:
10- sc in each st around
11- (4 sc, inc) x 6= 36
12- (5 sc, inc) x 6= 42
13- (6 sc, inc) x 6= 48
Place eyes between rows 12 and 13, leaving 10 holes between them.
14-19. sc in each st around
20- (7 sc, dec) x 6= 42
21- sc in each st around
22- (5 sc, dec) x 6= 36
Start stuffing the head
23- (4 sc, dec) x 6= 30
24- (3 sc, dec) x 6= 24
25- (2 sc, dec) x 6= 18
26- (sc, dec) x 6= 12
27- dec x 6= 6
F/O and sew the hole closed

Body:
With Color A:
1- Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2- Increase in each st around= 12
3- (sc, inc) x 6= 18
4- (2 sc, inc) x 6= 24
5- (3 sc, inc) x 6= 30
6- (4 sc, inc) x 6= 36
7- (5 sc, inc) x 6= 42
8- (6 sc, inc) x 6= 48
9-12. sc in each st around
13- (6 sc, dec) x 6= 42
14-15. sc in each st around
16- (5 sc, dec) x 6= 36
17-18. sc in each st around
Start stuffing the body
19- (4 sc, dec) x 6= 30
20-22. sc in each st around
23- (3 sc, dec) x 6= 24
24-25. sc in each st around
26- (2 sc, dec) x 6= 18
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Arms(Make 2):
With Color A:
1- Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2- Increase in each st around= 12
3- (sc, inc) x 6= 18
4- 2 sc, change to Color B: bob st, change to color a: 2 sc, change to color B: bob st, change to color A: 2 sc, change to color B: bob st, Change to color A: 9 sc= 18
5-6. Sc in each st around
7- Dec, 16 sc= 17
8-9. Sc in each st around
10- Dec, 15 sc= 16
Start stuffing the legs
11- Dec, 14 sc= 15
12-13. Sc in each st around
14- Dec, 13 sc= 14
15-16. Sc in each st around
Stop stuffing the arms
17- Dec, 12 sc= 13
18-19. Sc in each st around
20- Dec, 11 sc= 12
21- sc in each st around
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Ears(Make 2 of each color):
Starting with Color B:
1- Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2- Increase in each st around= 12
3- (sc, inc) x 6= 18
Do not fasten off green ears. Continue by single crocheting the edges of the ears together.
Place the back sides of each ear together and single crochet around the edges with green yarn.

Legs (Make 2):
With Color A:
1- Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2- Increase in each st around= 12
3- (sc, inc) x 6= 18
4- (2 sc, inc) x 6= 24
5- 2 sc, Change to Color B: bob st, Change to color A: 2 sc, Change to color B: bob st, Change to
Color A: 2 sc, Change to Color B: bob st, Change to Color A: 15 sc
6- sc in each st around
7- (6 sc, dec) x 3= 21
8- sc in each st around
9- (5 sc, dec) x 3= 18
10-11. sc in each st around
Start stuffing the legs
12- Dec, 16 sc= 17
13-14. sc in each st around
15- Dec, 15 sc= 16
16-17. sc in each st around
Stop stuffing the legs
18- (2 sc, dec) x 4= 12
19- sc in each st around
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Tail:
With Color A:
1- Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6
2- (inc, 2 sc) x 2= 8
3- sc in each st around
4- (inc, 3 sc) x 2= 10
5- sc in each st around
6- (inc, 4 sc) x 2= 12
7. Sc in each st around
8. (inc, 5 sc) x 2= 14
9. Sc in each st around
10. (inc, 6 sc) x 2= 16
11. Sc in each st around
Stuff the tail as you work

Tail Continued:
12- (inc, 7 sc) x 2= 18
13- sc in each st around
14- (inc, 8 sc) x 2= 20
15- sc in each st around
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Spikes (Make 5):
With color C:
1- Make 4 sc into a magic ring= 4
2- (inc, sc) x 2= 6
3- (inc, 2 sc) x 2= 9
4-5. sc in each st around
Do not stuff the spikes. Sew the spike
Closed, F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Horns(Make 2):
with Color B:
1. Make 4 sc into a magic ring= 4
2. (inc, sc) x 2= 6
3. (inc, 2 sc) x 2= 9
4. Sc in each st around
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Belly:
With Color B:
Ch 6
1- sc in 2nd chain from hook, 3 sc, inc3 in last chain, working on the opposite side of the chain, 3 sc, inc= 12
2- inc, 3 sc, inc x 3, 3 sc, inc x 2= 18
3- sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc= 24
4- 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc= 30
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Wings (Make 2):
Ch 5
1- sc in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sc, sl st, ch 1, turn= 4
2- sc, inc, 2 sc, ch 2, turn
3- sc in 2nd chain from hook, 3 sc, inc, sl st, ch 1, turn
4- 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, ch 3, turn
5- sc in 2nd chain from hook, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, sl st, ch 1, turn
6- 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, ch 3, turn
7- sc in 2nd chain from hook, 8 sc, inc, 3 sc, sl st
F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Assembly
Head and Body:
1- Pin the head onto the body for extra support. You may need to add more stuffing as you sew.
2- sew the head onto the body.

Belly:
1- Pin the belly onto the body and sew into place.

Arms:
1- Pin the arm in a forward facing angle. There are no particular rows I place them on as it depends on how you stuff, shape, etc. its just better to judge how you want them.
2- Sew the arm onto the body.

Legs:
1- Turn the body upside down with the nose facing away from you.
2- Pin the legs onto the bottom of the body.
There are no special rows for this, just depends on the look you would like. I don’t place mine in between any special rows. I just judge based on how the individual doll looks.
3- Sew the legs onto the body.

Tail:
1- Pin the tail onto the back of the body. There are no particular rows I place these on. I try to judge how it looks after pinned.
2- Sew the tail onto the body

Ears:
1- Pinch the ears at the bottom and sew about 3 stitches together to give it a closed look.
2- Pin the ears onto the head and sew them into place. There are no particular rows I sew these on. I try to judge them based on look.

Horns:
1- Pin the horns onto the top of the head right near the ears.
2- Sew the horns into place.

Spikes:
1- Pin the spikes onto the back of the body going down to the tail.
2- Sew them into place.

Wings:
1- Pin the wings onto the back of the body.
2- Sew them into place.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas:

Abbreviations
MR: Magic ring
• C: Chain
• RND: Round
• SC: Single crochet
• INC : Increase of single crochet
• DEC: Decrease of single crochet
• BLO: Back loop only
• DC: double crochet
• SL ST: slip stitch

Head
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6-12 : 30 sc
Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 15: (1 Sc, dec) x 6 ( 12) Fill the head
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the body

Nose
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4-6: 18 sc
Fill the nose
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the head

Arms (make 2)
Body
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6-8 : 30 sc
Rnd 9: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 10-11: 24 sc
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 13: 18 sc
Rnd 14: (1 sc, dec) x 6 ( 12)
Rnd 15: 12 sc
Fill the body and fasten
Rnd 1: 5 sc in a mr (5)
Rnd 2: inc x 5 (10)
Rnd 3-12: 18 sc
Fill the arm
Rnd 13: dec x 5 (5)
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the body

Legs (make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: 18 sc in BLO
Rnd 5: 6 sc, (dec x 3), 6 sc (15)
Rnd 6: 5 sc, (dec x 3), 4 sc (12)
Rnd 7-16: 12 sc
Fill the legs
Rnd 17: dec x 6 (6)
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the body

Tail
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: 6 sc
Rnd 3: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 4-6: 12 sc
Rnd 7: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 8-10: 18 sc
Rnd 11: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 12-14: 24 sc
Fill the tail
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the body

Horns (make 3)
Rnd 1: 4 sc in mr (4)
Rnd 2: 4 sc
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 2 (6)
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the head and nose

Back spikes
45Ch, turn, and start in the 3 ch from the needle ( 4 dc, skip 1 ch, 1 sl st in the next ch) repeat for the whole chain.
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the body

Wings (make 2)
Make the wings in rows.
Rnd 1: 4 ch
Rnd 2: 3 sc, 1 ch
Rnd 3: 3 sc, 4 ch
Rnd 4: 6 sc, 1 ch
Rnd 5: 3 sc, 5 ch
Rnd 6: 7 sc, 1 ch
Rnd 7: 3 sc, 6 ch
Rnd 8: 8 sc, 2 ch, 6 dc down towards the start
Leave a long yarn thread for sewing on the body
Assemble all parts.
Embroider the eyes and eyebrows.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Dragon Ideas

Other materials:
• Crochet hook size 2, 2.5 mm
• Knitting needles size 3.5- 4 mm
• 1 pair of safety eyes 6mm
• 1 wooden button
• Black and pink thread
• Tapestry needles, pins, stitch markers, scissors.
• The size of the finished amigurumi toy is approximately 13 cm when the specified materials are used.

Abbreviations
Ch– Chain
Sc– Single crochet
Inc– Increase
Dec– Decrease
Hdc– Half double crochet
Sl st– Slip stitch
MR– Magic ring
Dc– Double crochet
Tr– Treble crochet
Bobble– Bobble stitch (4 hdcs in the same st)
BLO– Back loop only
FLO– Front loop only
Rnd– Round
Sts– Stitches
k-knit
p-purl

Legs (Make 2)
(Yarn A)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 3. (2sc,inc)*3 (12)
Rnd 4. (3sc,inc)*3 (15)
Break the yarn, make the second leg in the same way, but don’t the yarn this time. Connect 2 legs together: sc 15 (leg 1)+ sc 15 (leg 2)= 30. Move to the body part.

Body
(Yarn A)
Rnd 1. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 2-7. sc 36 (6 rnds) (36)
Rnd 8. (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 9. sc 30 (30)
Rnd 10. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 11. sc 24 (24)
Rnd 12. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 13-16. sc 18 (4 rnds) (18)
Break the yarn with a long rest. Stuff.

Tail
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. sc 2, inc 2, sc 2 (8)
Rnd 3. sc 3, inc 2, sc 3 (10)
Rnd 4. sc 4, inc 2, sc 4 (12)
Rnd 5. sc 5, inc 2, sc 5 (14)
Rnd 6. sc 6, inc 2, sc 6 (16)
Break the yarn with a long rest to sew later, stuff.

Arms (Make 2)
(Yarn A)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2-7. (1sc,inc)*3 (9)
Break the yarn with a long rest. Stuff slightly. Sew 2 edges together.

Head
(Yarn A)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 9. (7sc,inc)*6 (54)
Rnd 10. sc 54 (54)
Rnd 11. (8sc,inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 12-19. sc 60 (8 rnds) (60)
Rnd 20. (8sc,dec)*6 (54)
Rnd 21. sc 54 (54)
Rnd 22. (7sc,dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 23. (6sc,dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 24. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 25. (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 26. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 27. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Break the yarn with a long rest to sew later. Stuff.

Eyes (Make 2)
(Yarn D)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 3. (2sc,inc)*3 (12)
Rnd 4. (3sc,inc)*3 (15)
Rnd 5. (3sc,dec)*3 (12)
Break the yarn with a long rest, attach safety eyes, stuff.

Eyelids (Make 2)
(Yarn A)
Rnd 1. ch 8, start on the 2nd stitch from the hook.
Rnd 2. sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, (dc 2), dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1.
Break the yarn with a long rest to sew later.

Nose
(Yarn A)
Use yarn B, sc 4 into a magic ring (x2)
Use yarn A, sc 6 into a magic ring (x2)
Attach 2 pieces of color A and color B together.

Wing (Make 2)
(Yarn D)
Rnd 1. ch 15 start in the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 14 turn (14)
Rnd 2. ch 1, BLO, sc 14, turn (14)
Rnd 3-4. ch 1, BLO, sc 12, turn (2 rnds) (12)
Rnd 5-6. ch 1, BLO, sc 10, turn (2 rnds) (10)
Rnd 7-8. ch 1, BLO, sc 8, turn (2 rnds) (8)
Break the yarn, use the yarn A to crochet sc across the wings, use the tapestry needle to sew 2 wings into the back of the body.

Thorn
(Yarn B)
Crochet round 1 with single crochet from tail up to the first half of the head.

Rnd 2. (skip 2, dc 5 in the same stitch, skip 2), repeat to the end.

Scarf
(Yarn C, using knitting needles)
Rnd 1. cast on 6 st (6)
Rnd 2. K6 (6)
Rnd 3. P6 (6)
Repeat Rnd 2 and 3 till you reach 13 cm then cast off, break the yarn, hide the remaining yarn.
Use the tapestry needle to attach the wooden button
to the scarf. That’s it, congratulations!
• Use black thread to embroider the mouth.
• Use pink thread to embroider the cheeks.

Crochet materials and tools for dragon:
Yarn. I knitted the main parts of the toy from plush yarn “Plush Light” with a very unusual color name “overflow of petroleum”. For knitting horns on my head (unfortunately, I don’t know what these growths on a dragon’s head are called correctly) I used a thin bobbin velor.
Crochet hook. For knitting with Plush Light yarn, I used hook No. 2, for velor – No. 1.25.
Filler for soft toys.
Cotter pins, if you decide to attach the parts of the toy using cotter pins.
Eyes. I used eyes for toys with a diameter of 5 mm.
Wool for felting beige and white.
Needle for felting thin twisted No. 40.
Threads in tone yarn for sewing details.,
A long needle for sewing soft toys.

Knitting dragon head.
1 row: we collect a chain of 5 air loops (hereinafter – ch). Next, we begin to tie the chain, starting with the second from the loop hook. 1 increase, 2 single crochet (hereinafter – sc), 2 increments in one loop at the end of the chain. Then we knit on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, 1 increase (12).
2 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 2 sc) 6 times (24).
4-5 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
6 row: we knit 1 sc to align the knitting, then we knit 3 sc, 6 increments, 15 sc (30).
The location of the increase on the dragon’s face is shown in the photo.
7 row: 3 sc, (1 increase, 1 sc) – repeat 6 times, 15 sc (36).
8 row: (5 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 6 times (42).
9 row: (6 sc, 1 increase) – 6 times (48).
10-14 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (48).
15 row: repeat (6 sc, decrease) 6 times (42).
16 row: repeat (5 sc, decrease) 6 times (36).
17 row: repeat (4 sc, decrease) 6 times (30).
We fill the dragon’s head with filler in the area of ​​the muzzle. We fix the cotter pin between 12 and 13 rows.
18 row: repeat (3 sc, decrease) 6 times (24).
19 row: repeat (2 sc, decrease) 6 times (18).
We stuff the connected part of the dragon’s head.
20 row: repeat (1 sc, decrease) 6 times (12).
21 row: decrease until the hole is completely closed.
Knitting the nostrils for the dragon (2 parts).
We type 4 ch and, starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit 3 sc on one side of the chain.

The design of the muzzle.
After we have tied the head and nostrils for the dragon, we can proceed to the design of the muzzle of the toy. To begin, let’s choose the position of the eye. This is a very important point when creating a toy. I will use 5 mm diameter sewing eyes with an eyelet. The shape of these eyes resemble mushrooms.

Along with sewing the eye, we will make the muzzle tightening.
Choosing the position of the eye with the needles, it is better to place them a little further apart, since when pulling together they will slightly change the position, become closer.
We fix the thread in the cotter pin area and put the needle in the place where the eye will be located. It is better for this purpose to use a long needle for sewing soft toys.
We put the eye on the needle, then again insert the needle into the head and bring it to the area of ​​attachment of the second eye.
We put our eyes on the needle and pierce the head of the toy again, returning to the first eye. We are tightening. Repeat this operation several times.

Upper foot-handles (2 parts).
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (15).
4-5 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (15).
6 row: 3 decreases, 9 sc (12).
7-8 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (12).
9 row: 1 sc, 2 decreases, 7 sc (10).
10-11 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (10).
After knitting 11 rows, we fill the lower part of the dragon’s paw. We will not stuff the upper part of the foot.
12 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (10).
We fix the cotter pin between 11 and 12 rows. Note that where we knitted the decreases – this is the front of the knitted dragon’s paw.
13 row: we knit decreases until the hole is completely closed.

Dragon Feet (2 parts).
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
4 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (18).
5 row: 7 sc, 2 decrease, 7 sc (16).
6 row: 6 sc, 2 decreases, 6 sc (14).
7-8 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (14).
9 row: 6 sc, 2 increments, 6 sc (16).
10 row: 7 sc, 2 increments, 7 sc (18).
11-13 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (18).
Stuff the connected part of the foot.
14 row: (1 sc, 1 decrease) – repeat 6 times (12).
We stuff the part, fix the cotter pin between 13 and 14 rows.
15 row: decrease until the hole is completely closed.

Knitting the torso of a dragon.
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 increase) 6 times (12).
3 row: repeat (1 increase, 1 sc) 6 times (18).
4th row: repeat (1 increase, 2 sc) 6 times (24).
5-9 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
10 row: repeat (1 increase, 3 sc) 6 times (30).
11 row: repeat (1 increase, 4 sc) 6 times (36).
We fix the upper legs of the dragon between the 7th and 8th rows.
12 row: 12 sc, (1 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 6 times, 12 sc (42).
13-14 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (42).
15 row: repeat (1 increase, 4 sc) 6 times (48).
16-20 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (48).
21 row: repeat (6 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (42).
22 row: repeat (5 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (36).
23 row: repeat (4 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (30).
24 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (24).
We fix the legs of a knitted dragon between 22 and 23 rows.
25 row: repeat (2 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (18).
26 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times (12).
27 row: we crochet a decrease until the hole is completely closed.

Tail of a plush dragon.
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (9).
3 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (9).
4th row: repeat (2 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (12).
5 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (12).
6 row: 4 sc, 4 increases, 4 sc (16).
7 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (16).
8 row: 4 sc, (1 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 4 times, 4 sc (20).
9-10 rows: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (20).
11 row: 4 sc, (2 sc, 1 increase) – repeat 4 times, 4 sc (24).
12 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (24).
We knit the connecting column in the last loop and finish knitting the tail for the dragon.

Knitting dragon horns.
We will knit horns (or growths on the dragon’s head) from bobbin velor (it is thinner than plush yarn) using a hook No. 1.25.
The very first horn on the dragon’s head, which is located on the forehead, is slightly smaller than the rest. Such a small horn, we need to tie only one. It fits in this way:
1st row: dial 2 ch and knit 6 sc into the second loop from the hook (6).
2 row: repeat (1 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (9).
3 row: we knit 1 sc in each loop of the previous row (9).
4th row: repeat (2 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (12).
Big horns 6 pieces. In order to connect them, it is necessary to tie a small horn (all 4 rows), and then, without tearing off the working thread, proceed to knitting the 5th row:
5 row: repeat (3 sc, 1 increase) 3 times (15).
Sewing horns to the dragon’s head, I advise this: firstly, the horns must be secured with a pin so that the part of the toy does not accidentally shift during sewing. And secondly, for sewing on these small parts it is better to use a regular thread in tone yarn horns and a needle for sewing. Sewing details with plush or velor yarn is extremely difficult.

Wings and ears for the dragon.
The wings and ears for the dragon fit in one pattern.
1 row: we collect 6 ch Starting from the second loop from the hook, we knit: 2 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 2 sc (7). Expand knitting.
2 row: 3 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 3 sc (9). Expand knitting.
3 row: 4 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 4 sc (11). Finish knitting parts.
Claws on paws, stripes on the tummy, eyebrows and eyes of the dragon are made using the technique of dry felting.

Muzzle:
1 row 6 sc
2 row 12 sc
3 row 18 sc
4 row 24sc
5 row 30 sc
6 row 36 sc
7 row 42 sc
8 row 48 sc
9 row (dec + 6 sc) * 6 times (42 sc)
10 row (dec + 5 sc) * 6 times (36 sc)
11 row 36 sc
12 row (dec + 4 sc) * 6 times (30 sc)
13 row 30 sc
14 row (dec + 3 sc) (24 sc)

Legs (2 pieces):
(A thread of a different color)
1 row 6 sc (Thread in a different color)
2 row 6 inc (12 sc)
3 row (inc + 1sc) * 6 times (18sc)
4 row 18 sc
5 row 18 sc (Change the thread to the main color)
6,7,8,9 row 18 sc + sl-st

Pens (2 pieces):
1: 6 sc
2: 6 inc (12 sc)
3: (inc + 2sc) * 4 times (16 sc)
4,5,6,7: 16 sc
8: (dec + 6 sc) * 2 times (14 sc)
9-19: 14 sc + sl-st

Spikes (7 pieces):
1 row 6 sc
2 row (inc + 1sc) * 3 times (9sc)
3 row 9 sc
4 row (inc + 2 sc) * 3 times (12 sc)
5 row 12 sc (sl-st)

Tail:
1 row 6 sc
2 row inc * 6 times (12sc)
3 row 12 sc
4 row 12 sc
5 row (inc + 1sc) * 6 times (18sc)
6 row 18 sc
7 row 18 sc
8 row (inc + 2sc) * 6 times (24sc)
9 row 24sc
10 row 24 sc
11 row (inc + 3sc) * 6 times (30sc)
12 row 30 sc
13 row 30 sc
14 row (inc + 4 sc) * 6 times (36 sc)
15 row 36 sc
16 row 36 sc
17 row (inc + 5 sc) * 6 times (42sc)
18 row 42 sc
19 row 42 sc, sl-st.

I like the next stage most of all when we select a textile insert for the belly. Of course, I select the colors in advance with the yarn.
The dragons are so cozy

slst – slip stitch

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

inc – increase

dec – decrease

Materials of the author:
3mm hook
– eyes 12 mm
-filler
Yarn of blue color – 135 g, yellow – 23 g, green – 15 g
The height of the finished toy is 37.5 cm

Muzzle
1. dial 8 ch + 2 ch lift. From the 3rd loop 7 sc, inc to the last, on the other side 7 sc and 2 sc to the last (18 sc)
2.inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6, 2 inc (24)
3. inc, 8, 4 inc, 8, 3 inc (32)
4. inc, 10, inc, 4, inc, 10, inc, 4 (36)
5-6. (36)
7. (5, inc) x6 (42)
8. (42)
9. (6, inc) x6 (48)
10. (7, inc) x6 (54)
11. (54)
12. (7, dec) x6 (48)
13. (6, dec) x6 (42)

Note: if you find the muzzle too large, you can only knit up to 48 loops, then the 10th row (48), 11-12 (42)

 Body-head
1.6 sc per ring
2. incx6 (12)
3. (1, inc) x6 (18)
4. (2, inc) x6 (24)
5. (3, inc) x6 (30)
6. (4, inc) x6 (36)
7. (5, inc) x6 (42)
8. (6, inc) x6 (48)
9. (7, inc) x6 (54)
10. (8, inc) x6 (60)
11. (9, inc) x6 (66)
12. (21, inc) x3 (69)
13-20. (69)
21. (21, dec) x3 (66)
22-27. (66)
28. (9, dec) x6 (60)
29-32. (60)
33. (8, dec) x6 (54)
34. (54)
35. (7, dec) x6 (48)
36-37. (48)
38. (6, dec) x6 (42)
39-40. (42)
41. (5, dec) x6 (36)
42. (36)
43. (4, dec) x6 (30)
44-61. (thirty)
62. (4, inc) x6 (36)
63. (5, inc) x6 (42)
64. (6, inc) x6 (48)
65. (7, inc) x6 (54)
66-79. (54)
80. (7, dec) x6 (48)
81-82. (48)
83. (6, dec) x6 (42)
84. (5, dec) x6 (36)
Insert eyes
85. (4, dec) x6 (30)
86. (3, dec) x6 (24)
87. (2, dec) x6 (18)
88. (1, dec) x6 (12)
89. decx6 (6)

 Tail
1.6 sc per ring
2. (1, inc) x3 (9)
3. (2, inc) x3 (12)
4. (3, inc) x3 (15)
5. (4, inc) x3 (18)
6. (5, inc) x3 (21)
7. (6, inc) x3 (24)
8. (7, inc) x3 (27)
9. (8, inc) x3 (30)
10. (9, inc) x3 (33)
11. (10, inc) x3 (36)
12. (11, inc) x3 (39)
13. (12, inc) x3 (42)
14. (13, inc) x3 (45)
15. (14, inc) x3 (48)
16. (15, inc) x3 (51)
17. (16, inc) x3 (54)
18. (17, inc) x3 (57)
19. (18, inc) x3 (60)
20. (19, inc) x3 (63)
21. (20, inc) x3 (66)
22. (21, inc) x3 (69)
23. (22, inc) x3 (72)
24. (23, inc) x3 (75)
25. (24, inc) x3 (78)
26-27. (78)

 Spikes
Small 3 pcs
1.4 sc to the ring
2. incx (8)
3. (3, inc) x2 (10)
Large 9 pcs
1.4 sc to the ring
2. incx (8)
3. (3, inc) x2 (10)
4. (4, inc) x2 (12)

Hands.
Fingers (3 pcs)
1.6 in the ring
2-3. (6)
Connect them.
4.3 sc on the first, 3 on the second, 6 sc on the third, 3 on the second and 3 sc on the first finger (18)
5-8. (eighteen)
9. (4, dec) x3 (15)
10. (3, dec) x3 (12)
11. (4, dec) x2 (10)
12-30. (10)
Insert the wire, fill.
31.5xdec (5)
32. tighten the hole

 Feet
Knit 3 fingers:
1.6 in the ring
2. incx6 (12)
3-7. (12)
8. Connect: 6 on the first, 6 on the 2nd, 12 on the 3rd, again 6 on the 2nd and 6 sc on the first finger (36)
9. (36)
10. (4, dec) x6 (30)
11-14. (thirty)
15. (8, dec) x3 (27)
16-18. (27)
19. (7, dec) x3 (24)
20. (24)
21. (6, dec) x3 (21)
22. (21)
23. (5, dec) x3 (18)
24. (1, dec) x6 (12)
25. decx6 (6)
26. tighten the hole

 Feet
1. dial 18 ch and close in a ring
2-8. (18 sc)
9. (5, inc) x3 (21)
10. (21)
11. (6, inc) x3 (24)
12. (3, inc) x6 (30)
13. (4, inc) x6 (36)
14. (36)
15. (5, inc) x6 (42)
16. dec, 33 sc, dec. Leave 5 sc untied (35)

Now we knit in rotary rows, at the beginning of each we do ch
17. dec, 31, dec (33)
18. dec, 29, dec (31)
19. dec, 27, dec (29)
20. dec, 25, dec (27)
21. dec, 23, dec (25)
22. dec, 21, dec (23)
23. dec, 19, dec (21)
24. dec, 17, dec (19)
25. dec, 15, dec (17)
26. dec, 13, dec (15),
27. dec, 11, dec (13)
28. dec, 9, dec (11)
29. dec, 8, dec (9)

Wings
Outer part
1.6 sc per ring
2-11. (6)
12.5, inc (7)
13-31. (7)

Inner part, knit in rotary rows and at the beginning of each 1 ch
1. dial 3 sc
2.From the 2nd to 2nd inc (4)
3.1.2 inc, 1 (6)
4. (6)
5.2.2 inc, 2 (8)
6. (8)
7.3, 2 inc, 3 (10)
8. (10)
9.4, 2 inc, 4 (12)
10. (12)
11.5, 2 inc, 5 (14)
12. (14)
13. sl-st, sc, 2 dc in one loop, sc, sl-st, sc, 2 dc in one loop, sc, sl-st, sc, 2 dc in one loop, sc

 puzo
Knit in rotary rows, at the beginning of each dial 1 ch. In blue, rows 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45
1. Dial 7 + 1 ch
2. (7)
3. inc, 5, inc (9)
4-5. (9)
6. inc, 7, inc (11)
7-9. (eleven)
10. inc, 9, inc (13)
11-12. (thirteen)
13. inc, 11, inc (15)
14. (15)
15. inc, 13, inc (17)
16. (17)
17. inc, 15, inc (19)
18. inc, 17, inc (21)
19. inc, 19, inc (23)
20-28. (23)
29. dec, 19, dec (21)
30-31. (21)
32. dec, 17, dec (19)
33-34. (nineteen)
35. dec, 15, dec (17)
36. (17)
37. dec, 13, dec (15)
38. dec, 11, dec (13)
39. dec, 9, dec (11)
40-42. (eleven)
43. dec, 7, dec (9)
44. (9)
45. dec, 5, dec (7)
46-47. (7)
48. dec, 3, dec (5)
49. dec, 1, dec (3)

HEAD – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring = 6
Rnd 2. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x6 = 18
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, inc x6 = 24
Rnd 5. sc in next 3st, inc x6 = 30
Rnd 6. sc in next 4st, inc x6 = 36
Rnd 7. sc in next 5st, inc x6 = 42
Rnd 8. sc in next 6st, inc x6 = 48
Rnd 9. sc in next 7st, inc x6 = 54
Rnd 10. sc in next 8st, inc x6 = 60
Rnd 11. sc in next 9st, inc x6 = 66
Rnd 12-20. 66sc
Rnd 21. sc in next 9st, dec x6 = 60
Rnd 22. sc in next 8st, dec x6 =54
Rnd 23. sc in next 7st, dec x6 = 48
Rnd 24. sc in next 6st, dec x6 = 42
Rnd 25. sc in next 5st, dec x6 = 36
Rnd 26. sc in next 4st, dec x6 = 30
Rnd 27. sc in next 3st, dec x6 = 24
Rnd 28. sc in next 2st, dec x6 = 18
Cut yarn and fasten off

NOSE – green
Rnd 1. ch4, join together with a sl st, ch1, 2sc, ch4, 2sc x4, sl st
Rnd 2. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 1sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain, 2sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain x3, sl st
Rnd 3. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 2sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain, 4sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain x3, 1sc, sl st
Rnd 4. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 3sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain, 6sc, 1sc ch2 1sc in chain x3, 2sc, sl st
Rnd 5. ch1, sc in the same st as sl st, 4sc, 2sc in chain, 8sc, 2sc in chain x3, 3sc, sl st.
Rnd 6-11. ch1, sc in same st as sl st, 39sc, sl st = 40sc
Cut yarn but leave a tail to attach the nose to the head

EARS – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. 6sc
Rnd 3. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 4. 12sc
Rnd 5. 12sc
Rnd 6. sc in next st, inc x6 = 18
Rnd 7. 18sc
Rnd 8. 18sc
Rnd 9. sc in next 2st, inc x6 = 24
Rnd 10. 24sc
Cut yarn but leave a tail to attach the ears to the head

BODY – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring = 6
Rnd 2. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x6 = 18
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, inc x6 = 24
Rnd 5. sc in next 3st, inc x6 = 30
Rnd 6. sc in next 4st, inc x6 = 36
Rnd 7. sc in next 5st, inc x6 = 42
Rnd 8. sc in next 6st, inc x6 = 48
Rnd 9. sc in next 7st, inc x6 = 54
Rnd 10-16. 54sc
Rnd 17. sc in next 7st, dec x6 = 48
Rnd 18. 48sc
Rnd 19. 48sc
Rnd 20. sc in next 6st, dec x6 = 42
Rnd 21. 42sc
Rnd 22. 42sc
Rnd 23. sc in next 5st, dec x6 = 36
Rnd 24. 36sc
Rnd 25. 36sc
Rnd 26. sc in next 4st, dec x6 =30
Rnd 27. 30sc
Rnd 28. 30sc
Rnd 29. sc in next 3st, dec x6 = 24
Rnd 30. 24sc
Rnd 31. 24sc
Rnd 32. sc in next 2st, dec x6 = 18
Rnd 33. 18sc
Rnd 34. 18sc
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the body and the head together.

STOMAGE – blue
Rnd 1. ch4, sc in second st from needle, 2sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 2. 3sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 3. 3sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 4. Inc, 1sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 5. 5sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 6. 5sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 7. Inc, 3sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 8. 7sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 9. 7sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 10. 7sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 11. Inc, 5sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 12. 9sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 13. 9sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 14. Inc, 7sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 15. 11sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 16. 11sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 17. Inc, 9sc, inc, ch1, turn
Rnd 18-22. 13sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 23. Dec, 9sc, dec, ch1, turn
Rnd 24. 11sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 25. Dec, 7sc, dec, ch1, turn
Rnd 26. 9sc, ch1, turn
Rnd 27. Dec, 5sc, dec, ch1, turn
Rnd 28. Crochet a row with sc around the stomage.
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the stomage on the body.

TAIL – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. sc I next st, inc x3 = 9
Rnd 3. 9sc
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, inc x3 = 12
Rnd 5. 12sc
Rnd 6. sc in next 3st, inc x3 = 15
Rnd 7. 15sc
Rnd 8. sc in next 4st, inc x3 = 18
Rnd 9. 18sc
Rnd 10. sc in next 5st, inc x3 = 21
Rnd 11. 21sc
Rnd 12. sc in next 6st, inc x3 = 24
Rnd 13. 24sc
Rnd 14. sc in next 3st, inc x6 = 30
Rnd 15. 30sc
Rnd 16. sc in next 4st, inc x6 = 36
Rnd 17. 36sc
Rnd 18. sc in next 5st, inc x6 = 42
Rnd 19. 42sc
Rnd 20. 42sc
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the tail on the body.

LEGS
Rnd 1. Start off with blue, 6sc in a magic ring, join with sl st, ch1
Rnd 2. inc x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 3. sc in next st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 4. sc in next 2st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 5. Switch color to green, sc in next 3st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 6. sc in next 4st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 7. 36sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 8. 36sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 9. sc in next 4st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 10. 30sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 11. 30sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 12. sc in next 3st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 13. 24sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 14. 24sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 15. sc in next 2st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 16. 18sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 17. 18sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 18. sc in next st, dec x6, sl st, ch1
Rnd 19. 12sc, sl st, ch1
Rnd 20. 12sc, sl st
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the legs on the body.

ARMS – green
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. inc x6 = 12
Rnd 3-6. 12sc
Rnd 7. 2sc, 1bo, 9sc = 12
Rnd 8-17. 12sc, slst
Cut off yarn but leave a long tail to attach the arms on the body.

SPIKES 7 pieces blue
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. 6sc
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x3 = 9
Rnd 4. sc in next 2sc, inc x3 = 12
Rnd 5. 12sc
Rnd 6. sc in next 3st, inc x3 = 15
Cut off yarn and attach the spikes on the head and body.

SPIKES 2 pieces blue
Rnd 1. 6sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. 6sc
Rnd 3. sc in next st, inc x3 = 9
Rnd 4. sc in next 2sc, inc x3 = 12
Cut off yarn and attach the spikes on the head and body.

INFO
The opening of the body and the head are sewn together.
The 2 small spikes are mounted as the first on the head and the last on the tail.
The arms are padded in the hands alone.

Bobble stitch – thumb

1.Make a wrap around the needle, pick up yarn through the stitch, you now have 3 loops on the
needle

2.Make a wrap around the needle and pull through 2 of the loops on the needle, becoming like a
unfinished dc, and you should have 2 loops left on the needle

3.Make a wrap on the needle, pick up yarn through the stitch

4.Make a wrap, pull through 2 loops, then you have 3 loops on the needle, and now you have 2
unfinished dc.

5.Then you will make row 1-4 two times more. And now you will have done 4 unfinished dc and will
have 5 loops in the needle.

6.Crochet sc in next stitches.

If this is too complicated then Poof will be just as nice if you replace bo with sc