Abbreviations
R – row
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Head
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
R 8: 42 sc
R 9: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [48]
R 10: (7 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [54]
R 11-14: 54 sc (4 rows)
R 15: 8 sc, inc, 8 sc, 19 inc, (8 sc, inc) repeat 2 times [76]
R 16: 9 sc, inc, 55 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc [79]
R 17-19: 79 sc (3 rows)
R 20: (9 sc, dec) repeat 2 times, 33 sc, dec, (9 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [74]
R 21: (8 sc, dec) repeat 2 times, 32 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [69]
R 22: (7 sc, dec) repeat 2 times, 31 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [64]
R 23: (6 sc, dec) repeat 8 times [56]
R 24: (5 sc, dec) repeat 2 times, 14 dec, (5 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [38]
R 25: 34 sc, 2 dec [36]
R 26: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 27: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Fasten off.
Legs and body are crocheted as a single part.
Legs (make two)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (5 sc, inc) repeat 2 times [14]
R 4: (6 sc, inc) repeat 2 times [16]
R 5: (7 sc, inc) repeat 2 times [18]
R 6: 18 sc
Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.
Continue crocheting the body in the round:

Body
R 1: 18 sc on the first leg, 18 sc on the second leg [36]
R 2: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
R 3: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [48]
R 4: 48 sc
R 5: (7 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [54]
R 6: 54 sc
R 7: (8 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [60]
R 8-12: 60 sc (5 rows)
R 13: (8 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [54]
R 14-16: 54 sc (3 rows)
R 17: (7 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
R 18: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 19: 42 sc
R 20: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 21: 36 sc
R 22: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 23: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make two)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (5 sc, inc) repeat 2 times [14]
R 4-5: 14 sc (2 rows)
R 6: (5 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [12]
R 7-8: 12 sc (2 rows)
R 9: (4 sc, dec) repeat 2 times [10]
R 10-13: 10 sc (4 rows)
Fold the top opening flat and 5 sc through both sides.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Ears (make two)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
R 6: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Fold the top opening flat and 6 sc through both sides.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Collar
Make 30 ch.
R 1: From the 3rd ch from hook: (2 dc in one stitch) repeat 28 times [57]
R 2: 2 sc in every stitch to the end of row [114]
Sew ears to the head.
Sew head and arms to the body.
Embroider nostrils and navel.
Sew eyes on the head.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Hippo Ideas:

Body
1.6 sc into magic ring
2. inc. = 12
3.1sc, inc = 18
4.2sc, inc = 24
5.3sc, inc = 30
6.4sc, inc = 36
7.5sc, inc. = 42
8. 6sc, inc = 48
9.7sc, inc = 54
10.8sc, inc = 60
11.9sc, inc = 66
12.10sc, inc. = 72
13.11sc, inc = 78
14.12sc, inc = 84
15.13sc, inc = 90
16.14sc, inc = 96
17.15sc, inc. = 102
18.16sc, inc = 108
19.17sc, inc = 114
20. 18sc, inc = 120
21.19sc, inc = 126
22.20sc, inc. = 132
23.21sc, inc = 138
23-43. 138sc = 138
44.21sc, dec = 132
45.132sc = 132
46.20sc, dec = 126
47. 126sc = 126
48.19sc, dec = 120
49. 18sc, dec = 114
50.114sc = 114
51.17sc, dec = 108
52.108sc = 108
53.16sc, dec = 102
54. 102sc = 102
55.15sc, dec = 96
56.96scsc = 96
57.14sc, dec = 90
58. 90sc = 90
59. 13sc, dec = 84
60.84scsc = 84
61.12sc, dec = 78
62. 78sc = 78
63. 11sc, dec = 72
64. 72sc = 72
65.10sc, dec = 66
66. 66sc = 66
67. 9sc, dec. = 60
68. 60sc = 60
69. 8sc, dec = 54
70. 54sc = 54 Fill the body with filler. By desire. can be placed in the center of the weighting compound (on choice: granulant, rice, peas, etc. For loose
filler I use stocking)
71.7sc, dec = 48
72.6sc, dec = 42
73.5sc, dec. = 36
74.4sc, dec = 30
75.3sc, dec = 24
76.2sc, dec = 18
77.1sc, dec = 12
78. dec = 6
Close the loop

Head
1.6 sc into magic ring
2. inc. = 12
3.1sc, inc = 18
4.2sc, inc = 24
5.3sc, inc = 30
6.4sc, inc = 36
7.5sc, inc. = 42
8. 6sc, inc = 48
9.7sc, inc = 54
10.8sc, inc = 60
11.9sc, inc = 66
12.10sc, inc. = 72
13.11sc, inc = 78
14.12sc, inc = 84
15.13sc, inc = 90
16.14sc, inc = 96
17.15sc, inc. = 102
18.16sc, inc = 108
19.17sc, inc = 114
20-25.114sc = 114
26.17sc, dec = 108
27.16sc, dec = 102
28.15sc, dec = 96
29.14sc, dec = 90
30. 13sc, dec = 84
31.12sc, dec = 78
32.11sc, dec = 72
33.10sc, dec = 66
34-38. 66sc = 66
39.10sc, inc. = 72
40. 11sc, inc = 78
41.12sc, inc = 84
42. 13sc, inc = 90
43. 14sc, inc = 96
44.15sc, inc. = 102
45-49. 102sc = 102
50.15sc, dec = 96
51.14sc, dec = 90
52. 13sc, dec = 84
53.12sc, dec = 78
54.11sc, dec = 72
55.10sc, dec = 66
56.9sc, dec. = 60
57.8sc, dec = 54
58.7sc, dec = 48
59.6sc, dec = 42
60.5sc, dec. = 36
61.4sc, dec = 30
62.3sc, dec = 24
63.2sc, dec = 18
64.1sc, dec = 12
65. dec = 6
Close the loop. Sew your head to torso.

Ears and Nostrils
1.6 sc into magic ring
2. inc. = 12
3.1sc, inc = 18
4.2sc, inc = 24
5.3sc, inc = 30
6.4sc, inc = 36
7.5sc, inc. = 42
8. 6sc, inc = 48
9.7sc, inc = 54
Twist one side of the circle into a tourniquet and secure it with a thread. Leave long thread to sew the eye with it. Twist one ear clockwise, and another in the opposite direction.

Sew ears to the head.
1.6 sc into magic ring
2. inc. = 12
3.1sc, inc = 18
4.2sc, inc = 24
5.3sc, inc = 30
6.4sc, inc = 36
7.5sc, inc. = 42
Fold the circle in half and knit together on the outside of the circle. Leave long tip of thread to sew nostrils with it. Bend slightly into an arc and sew to the muzzle.

Legs and Tail
1.6 sc into magic ring
2. inc. = 12
3.1sc, inc = 18
4.2sc, inc = 24
5.3sc, inc = 30
6.4sc, inc = 36
7.5sc, inc. = 42
8. 6sc, inc = 48
9.7sc, inc = 54
10-14. 54sc = 54
15.7sc, dec = 48
16.6sc, dec = 42
17-21. 42sc = 42
Leave the long end of the thread for sewing on the legs. Fill with filler and sew to the torso.
For the tail, we cut 30 threads of 40 cm. We pass the threads through a loop of 23 rows of the hippo’s body (where the decrease started). It turns out 60 thread. Weave a pigtail. At the end we tie it with a knot and cut it so that you get a brush. Number of threads and tail length can be changed as desired.
We make a face
It remains to sew / glue the eyes and make weights.
To form a mouth, we stretch the thread from the center of the mouth to the right nostril, return to the mouth, stretch into the left nostril, again return to the mouth, to the center of the upper lip, to the center of the lower lip, to the center mouth and there we fix the thread.
For the navel, we stretch the thread from the front of the neck (where sewn on the head), to the navel and return back to the neck. Fasten a thread.

Teeth
1.6 sc into magic ring
2. inc. = 12
3-5. 1sc, inc = 18
Leave the long end of the thread and sew the teeth on her lower lip.
Enjoy your work!
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Hippo Ideas:

Yarn (acrylic, weight 4) – 265 total yards
– Medium Teal – 213 yards (I used Red Heart Super Saver – Jade)
– Aqua – 47 yards (I used Red Heart Super Saver – Aruba Sea)
– Dark Teal – 1 yard (I used Red Heart Super Saver – Real Teal)
– White – 4 yards (I used Red Heart Super Saver – White)

Abbreviations
ch – chain
slst – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – complete two single crochets within the same stitch
dec – combine two stitches into one with an invisible decrease
2hdc – Complete two half double crochets in the same stitch. Also known as a double crochet increase. You do not need to chain before completing the 2hdc.
BLO – crochet in the back loop only
*sc x* – repeat the instructions between asterisks(*) the indicated number of times. If the pattern doesn’t tell you how many times to repeat, then repeat the sequence until you reach the end of the round.

General Instructions
Work all stitches in both loops unless the pattern instructs otherwise.
This pattern is worked in one continuous spiral. Do not join rounds unless the pattern indicates otherwise (in other words, do not slip stitch and chain to start a new round).
Use a stitch marker to keep track of where one round ends and the next begins. I prefer to place my stitch marker in the last stitch of the round.

Recommended Sequence
Here are the steps to create your hippo, in order:
1. Crochet the Snout & Head
2. Crochet the Ears
3. Attach the Ears to the Head
4. Crochet the Teeth
5. Crochet the Body
6. Crochet the Belly
7. Crochet the Arms
8. Crochet the Legs
9. Crochet the Tail
10. Attach the Head to the Body
11. Attach the Legs to the Body
12. Attach the Arms to the Body
13. Attach the Tail to the Body
14. Attach the Belly to the Body
15. Add the Nostrils
16. Attach the Teeth
Snout & Head: Round 11 – Marking Stitches for the Teeth
Between rounds 10 and 11, you are going to insert 2 markers, showing you where to attach the teeth at a later step.Center them above the chain 5 start with 11 stitches in between (counted on row 10), as shown in the photo.You will leave the stitch markers in place as you crochet the remaining rounds of the head, so I recommend using strands of yarn to mark these stitches, ensuring they’re easy to crochet around.Use a yarn needle to insert each strand to mark your stitches.
Snout & Head: Round 16 – Additional Stitches
At the end of round 15, continue to single crochet until your most recent stitch is centered above your teeth markers, as pictured. This ensures your color join will be on the bottom of the head.These additional stitches are not included in the stitch count for round 15 nor for round 16.Move your stitch marker to the last stitch you made and continue on with round 16 as normal.
Snout & Head: Round 20 – Marking Stitches for the Eyes
Between rounds 19 and 20, you are going to insert 2 markers, showing you where to insert the eyes at a later step.Center the markers above the snout with 18 stitches in between (counted on row 19), as shown in the photo.Note that the eye markers should be centered above the snout, and the teeth markers added in a previous step should be centered on the bottom of the snout.You will leave the eye markers in place as you crochet rounds 21 – 35, so I recommend using strands of yarn to mark these stitches, ensuring they’re easy to crochet around.Use a yarn needle to insert each strand to mark your stitches.
Snout & Head: Round 29 – Marking Stitches for the Ears

Between rounds 28 and 29, you are going to insert 2 markers, showing you where to attach the ears at a later step.Center the ear markers above the eye markers with 13 stitches in between (counted on row 28), as shown in the photo.You will leave the stitch markers in place as you crochet the remaining rounds of the head, so I recommend using strands of yarn to mark these stitches, ensuring they’re easy to crochet around.Use a yarn needle to insert each strand to mark your stitches.

Snout & Head
With aqua yarn:
01. Chain 5 start: ch5, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, 5sc in the last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain base, sc 2, 3sc in the last ch [14]
02. inc, sc 4, *inc* 3 times, sc 4, *inc* 2 times [20]
03. inc, sc 6, *inc* 2 times, sc, inc, sc 6, *inc* 2 times, sc [26]
04. inc, sc 8, *inc, sc* 2 times, inc, sc 8, *inc, sc* 2 times [32]
05. inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc [38]
06. inc, sc 12, *inc, sc 2* 2 times, inc, sc 12, *inc, sc 2* 2 times [44]
07. inc, sc 14, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2 [50]
08. inc, sc 16, *inc, sc 3* 2 times, inc, sc 16, *inc, sc 3* 2 times [56]
09. *sc 26, dec* [54]
10. sc in each st around [54]
11. *sc 7, dec* [48]
12. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
13. sc in each st around [42]
14. *sc 5, dec* [36]
15. sc in each st around [36]
Now sc until your most recent stitch is centered perpendicular to your Chain 5 Start. See “Snout & Head: Round 16 – Additional Stitches” in the Notes section for more details.

Switch to Medium Teal Yarn:
16. BLO: slst in each st around [36]
17. BLO: *sc 5, inc* [42]
18. sc 3, inc, *sc 6, inc* 5 times, sc 3 [48]
19. *sc 7, inc* [54]
20. sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4 [60]
Between rounds 19 and 20 (the last two rounds you completed), you are going to insert 2 markers. Center them above the snout with 18 stitches in between. See “Snout & Head: Round 20 – Marking Stitches for the Eyes” in the Notes section for more details.
21 – 29. sc in each st around [60]
Between rounds 28 and 29 (the last two rounds you completed), you are going to insert 2 markers. Center them above the eye markers with 13 stitches in between. See “Snout & Head: Round 29 – Marking Stitches for the Ears” in the Notes section for more details.
30. sc in each st around [60]
31. sc 4, dec, *sc 8, dec* 5 times, sc 4 [54]
32. *sc 7, dec* [48]
33. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
34. *sc 5, dec* [36]
35. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2 [30]
Stuff head ¾ full and create indents for the eyes. See “How to indent the eyes” in the notes section. Insert your safety eyes and secure the backings.
36. *sc 3, dec* [24]
37. sc, dec, *sc 2, dec* 5 times, sc [18]
38. *sc, dec* [12]
Finish stuffing.
39. *dec* [6]
Cut working yarn and close with an ultimate finish.

Ears (make 2)
With medium teal yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. *sc, inc* [9]
03. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 2 times, sc [12]
04. *sc 3, inc* [15]
05. sc in each st around [15]
06. *sc 3, dec* [12]
07 – 09. sc in each st around [12]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

Teeth (make 2)
With white yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. BLO: sc in each st around [12]
04. sc in each st around [12]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. When attaching the teeth, I recommend sewing them 3/4 around, stuffing, then sewing the remaining 1/4.

Body
With medium teal yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05. *sc 3, inc* [30]
06. sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* 5 times, sc 2 [36]
07. *sc 5, inc* [42]
08. sc 3, inc, *sc 6, inc* 5 times, sc 3 [48]
09. *sc 7, inc* [54]
10. sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4 [60]
11 – 17. sc in each st around [60]
18. sc 4, dec, *sc 8, dec* 5 times, sc 4 [54]
19. sc in each st around [54]
20. *sc 7, dec* [48]
21. sc in each st around [48]
22. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
23 – 24. sc in each st around [42]
25. *sc 5, dec* [36]
26 – 27. sc in each st around [36]
28. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2 [30]
29 – 30. sc in each st around [30]
31. *sc 3, dec* [24]
Fasten off and create an invisible finish. Leave an 24″ tail for sewing. Stuff firmly with fiber fill.

Belly
With aqua yarn:
01. Chain 5 start: ch5, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, 5sc in the last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain base, sc 2, 3sc in the last ch [14]
02. inc, sc 4, *inc* 3 times, sc 4, *inc* 2 times [20]
03. inc, sc 6, *inc* 2 times, sc, inc, sc 6, *inc* 2 times, sc [26]
04. inc, sc 8, *inc, sc* 2 times, inc, sc 8, *inc, sc* 2 times [32]
05. inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc [38]
06. inc, sc 12, *inc, sc 2* 2 times, inc, sc 12, *inc, sc 2* 2 times [44]
07. inc, sc 14, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2 [50]
Fasten off and create an invisible finish. Leave a 24″ tail for sewing.
Optional: Rather than sewing the belly on with the yarn tail, I chose to weave the tail into the back of the work and trim it short, then sew the belly on to the body with matching thread and a sewing needle. Either way works!

Arms (make 2)
Tip: Follow my Perfect Arm Base tutorial for seamless color transitions.
With aqua yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* [18]
Switch to medium teal yarn:
04. BLO: slst in each st around [18]
05. BLO: sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
06. BLO: sc in each st around [24]
07 – 09. sc in each st around [24]
10. sc 11, dec, sc 11 [23]
11. sc in each st around [23]
12. sc 21, dec [22]
13. sc in each st around [22]
14. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]
15. sc in each st around [21]
16. sc 19, dec [20]
17. sc in each st around [20]
18. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]
19. sc in each st around [19]
20. sc 17, dec [18]
21. sc in each st around [18]
22. sc 8, dec, sc 8 [17]
23. sc in each st around [17]
24. sc 15, dec [16]
25 – 26. sc in each st around [16]
27. *sc 2, dec* [12]
Fasten off and leave a 24″ tail for sewing. Stuff with fiber fill, then fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

Legs (make 2)
Tip:Follow my Perfect Leg Base tutorial for seamless color transitions.
With aqua yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
Switch to medium teal yarn:
05. BLO: slst in each st around [24]
06. BLO: *sc 3, inc* [30]
07. BLO: sc in each st around [30]
08 – 10. sc in each st around [30]
11. sc 14, dec, sc 14 [29]
12. sc 27, dec [28]
13. sc 13, dec, sc 13 [27]
14. sc 25, dec [26]
15. sc 12, dec, sc 12 [25]
16. sc 23, dec [24]
17. sc 11, dec, sc 11 [23]
18. sc 21, dec [22]
19. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]
20. sc 19, dec [20]
21. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]
22. sc 17, dec [18]
23. *sc 7, dec* [16]
24. *sc 2, dec* [12]
Fasten off and leave a 24″ tail for sewing. Stuff with fiber fill, then fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

Tail
With medium teal yarn:01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]02 – 08. sc around [6]
Fasten off and leave a 18″ for sewing. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed. Thread the yarn tail into the work and out the magic ring with a yarn needle (use it to sew the tail to the body at a later step).
You are now going to add a tuft of fur to the slip-stitched end of the tail. With dark teal yarn, create a sip knot on your hook.
01. *slst, ch 6, slst into the same st*
Congratulations
More Amigurumi Hippo Ideas:

Head:
1st row: 6 sc INTO MAGIC RING
2nd row (6inc) (12)
3rd row (inc, 1sc) (18)
4th row (inc, 2sc) (24)
5th row (inc, 3sc) (30)
6th row (inc, 4sc) (36)
7th row (inc, 5sc) (42)
8th row (inc, 6sc) (48)
9th row (inc, 7sc) (54)
10th row (inc, 8sc) (60)
11th row (inc, 9sc) (66)
12-19 row (66sc)
20 row (dec, 9sc) (60)
21 row (dec, 8sc) (54)
22 row (dec, 7sc) (48)
23rd row (dec, 6sc) (42)
24th row (dec, 5sc) (36)
25th row (dec, 4sc) (30)
26 row (dec, 3sc) (24)
Fasten the thread and leave it for sewing.

Muzzle:
Row 1: Cast on 20ch in the second loop from the hook do inc, 17sc, 4inc in one loop, 17sc, inc (42)
2nd row İnc, 18sc, (inc) x3 one increment per loop, 18sc, (inc) x2, (48)
3-4 row (48 sc)
5 row 10sc, dec, 36sc (47)
6 row 9sc, dec, 22sc, dec, 12sc (45)
7 row 8sc, dec, 21sc, dec, 12sc (43)
8-11 row (43sc)
12 row dec, 17sc, dec, 22sc (41) Secure the thread. Leave for sewing

Body:
1st row 6 sc INTO MAGIC RING
2nd row (6inc) (12)
3rd row (inc, 1sc) (18)
4th row (inc, 2sc) (24)
5th row (inc, 3sc) (30)
6th row (inc, 4sc) (36)
7th row (inc, 5sc) (42)
8th row (inc, 6sc) (48)
9th row (inc, 7sc) (54)
10th row (inc, 8sc) (60)
11th row (İnc, 9sc) (66)
12th row (inc, 10sc) (72)
13-19 row (72sc)
20 row (dec, 10sc) (66)
21 row (66sc)
22 row (dec, 9sc) (60)
23rd row (60sc)
24 (dec, 8sc) (54)
25th row (54sc)
26th row (dec, 7sc) (48)
27th row (dec, 6sc) (42)
28 row (dec, 5sc) (36)
29th row (dec, 4sc) (30)
30th row (dec, 3sc) (24)
31st row (24sc)
Fasten the thread. Hide.

Ears (2 parts)
1st row 6 sc INTO MAGIC RING
2nd row (inc 6) (12)
3rd row (inc, 1sc) (18)
4-10 row (18sc)
Knit eyelet on both 8sc loops, fold over the sides and knit together again
3sc.Fasten thread, leave for sewing. We knit the second ear in the same way.

Nostrils (2 parts)
(blue yarn)
1 row 5 sc INTO MAGIC RING tighten, secure. Leave the thread for sewing. We knit the second part also.
Patch (small for the head) (1 piece with gray yarn)
We crochet 1.75, I used a thinner yarn of a suitable color.
We cast on 8ch in 2 loop from the hook, we knit 7sc to the end, and so we knit with rotary rows, not forgetting about ch 7 sc (6 rows). We fasten the sl-st thread. We leave the thread for sewing.
Patch (large for a belly) (1 piece with gray yarn)
We also take a hook 1.75 and thinner yarn.
Cast on 10ch in 2 sts from the hook, knit 9 sc to the end, make ch and so knit in turning rows we knit in 9 sc not forgetting about ch (8 rows). sl-st fix the thread. leave the thread for sewing.

Arms (2 parts)
(gray yarn)
1st row 6 sc INTO MAGIC RING
2nd row (6İNC) (12)
3rd row (inc, 1sc) (18)
4th row (inc, 2sc) (24)
Row 5-19, knit (24 sc)
Knit 11 sc handle, secure thread, leave for sewing. We knit the second handle in the same way.

Legs (2 parts)
(We start knitting with pink yarn)
1st row 6 sc INTO MAGIC RING
2nd row (6inc) (12)
3rd row (inc, 1sc) (18)
4th row (inc, 2sc) (24)
5th row (inc, 3sc) (30)
6th row (inc, 4sc) (36)
7th row (inc, 5sc) (42)
Change to gray yarn.
8th row (42sc)
9 row 42 sc knit behind the back wall of the loop.
10 row 15sc, 7dec, 13sc,
11 row 11sc, 6dec, 13sc
12 row 10sc, 5dec, 10sc (25)
13-23 row (25sc)
Knit the leg to secure the thread. Leave the thread for sewing. We knit the second leg similarly.

Assembly:
1. Sew the muzzle to the head. Sew on closer to the hole. (see photo).
2. Sew the nostrils to the face.
3. Next, I sew on the eyes, I have black semi beads.
4. I shape the eyebrows and smile.
5. I sew a patch (small) to the head after sewing I make two seams with each side with blue yarn
6. Sew on the ears, sew on the 10th row, count from the amigurumi ring.
7. Formed the head now we sew the head to the body.
8. Sew on handles. I did not sew on the upper loops from the inner side
9. Sew on the legs, I sew at the level of (handles approximately) (you can sew further it’s up to you. sewed on the upper loops and on the inside.
10. I sew a patch to the belly in the same way as on the head I make two seams with each sides with blue yarn.
11. Made a seam on the pope) with blue yarn (this is at your discretion).
More amigurumi hippo ideas:

Abbreviations
MR: Magic ring
Sc: Single crochet
Ch: Chain
Slst: Slip stitch
Inc: Increase
Dec: Decrease
Dc: Double crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet
Rnd: Round

Head
Rnd 1. 7 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 7 inc (14)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*7 (21)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*7 (28)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*7 (35)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*7 (42)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*7 (49)
Rnd 8-18. 49 sc
Rnd 19. (5sc,dec)*7 (42)
Rnd 20. (4sc,dec)*7 (35)
Rnd 21. (3sc,dec)*7 (28)
Rnd 22. (2sc,dec)*7 (21)
Rnd 23. 3 dec (18)
Eyes between rnd 14-15.
We start crocheting the sweater from the 4th row.
On the arms as well from the 4th row.
Or crochet in one color.

Legs and body
We crochet a leg.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (sc,inc)*3, 6sc (15)
Rnd 4-7. 15 sc
Fasten the thread, cut off.
• Similarly, we crochet the 2nd leg. The thread is no longer cut.
We continue to crochet:
Rnd 1. We crochet 4 ch, connect the sc, the second leg.
According to it turns out (38 sc).
Rnd 2. 4sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 16sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 10sc (42)
Rnd 3-8. 42 sc
Rnd 9. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 10. 36 sc (fill)
Rnd 11. (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 12-13. 30 sc
Rnd 14. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 15. 24 sc
Rnd 16. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 17. 18 sc
Rnd 18. 18 sc
Leave a piece for sewing on the head.

Arms (Make 2)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3-4. 12 sc
Rnd 5. 2dec, 8sc (10)
Rnd 6-14. 10 sc
Fill the arm in half.

Muzzle
Make 9 ch.
Rnd 1. We crochet in 8 loops: inc, 6 sc, 4 sc (in one loop) unfolded crocheting, 6 sc, inc (20)
Rnd 2. 2 inc, 6 sc, 4 inc, 6 sc (26)
We put a marker.
Rnd 3. inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 5sc (30)
Rnd 4. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 5-6. 36 sc
Rnd 7. (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 8-10. 30 sc

Ears (Make 2)
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3-5. 12 sc
Rnd 6. 6 dec (6)
Fasten the thread.
Congratulations!
More Amigurumi Hippo İdeas:

Legend:
KA – amigurumi ring
vp – air loop
p – loop
sc – single
crochet psn – half crochet
CCH – double crochet
ss – connecting post
pr – increase
ub – decrease

Head
1.6 sc in KA (6)
2. pr * 6 (12)
3. (1 sc, pr) * 6 (18)
4. (2 sc, pr) * 6 (24)
5. (3 sc, pr) * 6 (30)
6. (4 sbn, pr) * 6 (36)
7. (5 sbn, pr) * 6 (42)
8-10. 3 rows (42)
11. (6 sbn, pr) * 6 (48)
12-14. 3 rows (48)
15. (7 sc, pr) * 6 (54)
16-18. 3 rows (54)
19. (7 s6n, ub) * 6 (48)
20.48 sbn
21. (6 sbn, ub) * 6 (42)
22.42 sbn
23. (5 sbn, ub) * 6 ( 36)
24. (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)
25. (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
26. (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)
Stuff our head tightly.
27. (1 sbn, ub) * 6 (12)
We fix the thread. We cut it off.

Muzzle for a dinosaur
1. We collect a chain of 5 VP, from the 2nd loop from the hook: pr, 2 sbn, 4 sbn in the last loop, then on the other side of the chain: 2 sbn, pr (12)
2. pr * 2, 2 sc, pr * 4, 2 sc, pr * 2 (20)
3. (1 sc, pr) * 2, 2 sc, (1 sc, pr) * 4, 2 sc, (1 sc, pr) * 2 ( 28)
4. (1 sbn, pr) * 3, 3 sbn, (1 sbn, pr) * 5, 5 sbn, (1 sbn, pr) * 2 (38)
5-7. 3 rows (38)
Sew to the head, stuffing the muzzle a little.
We embroider nostrils, a smile.

Muzzle for a hippopotamus
1.6 sc in KA (6)
2. pr * 6 (12)
3. (1 sc, pr) * 6 (18)
4. (2 sc, pr) * 6 (24)
5. (3 sc, pr) * 6 (30)
6. (4 sc, pr) * 6 (36)
7. (5 sc, pr) * 6 (42)
8-10. 3 rows (42)
Sew to the head, stuffing the muzzle a little.
We embroider nostrils and a smile.

Ears for a hippopotamus
1.6 sc in KA (6)
2. (2 sc, pr) * 2 (8)
3. (3 sc, pr) * 2 (10)
4. (4 sc, pr) * 2 (12 )
5. (5 sc, pr) * 2 (14)
6. (6 sc, pr) * 2 (16)
7.16 sc
Fold the ear in half, knit ss, grabbing both walls.
Sew to the head.
Legs and body
We begin to knit from the legs, do not cut the thread on the second leg.
Knit with body color.

Legs (2 parts)
1.6 sc in KA (6)
2. pr * 6 (12)
3. (1 sc, pr) * 6 (18)
4-6. 3 rows (18)
Change the thread to the color of the jumpsuit / pants.
7.18 sbn behind the back wall of the hinges
8.18 sbn
9. (2 sbn, pr) * 6 (24)
10-14. 5 rows (24)

We start to connect the legs. We knit 6 sbn along the 2nd leg, 2 cp, attach to the 1st leg, knitting sbn, – this will be the 1st loop of the next row, then we knit 23 sbn, 2 sbn along the chain from cp, 24 cbn by 2- th leg + 2 sbn along the chain from VP (52)
16-19. 4 rows (52)
Next, we make decreases on the sides of the body, see that the decrease is exactly in the middle of the side on both sides. I got it like this:
20. 10 sc, dec, 24 sc, dec, 14 sc (50)
For the hippopotamus in the 21st row, change the thread to the color of the T-shirt and knit 50 sc for the back wall. For a dinosaur, we knit the 21st row, as usual, for both walls and do not change the thread.
21.50 PRS
We begin to fill, then we fill in the course of knitting.
22.10 sc, dec, 23 sc, dec, 13 sc (48)
23-24. 2 rows (48)
25.10 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 12 sc (46)
26-27. 2 rows (46)
28.10 sc, dec, 21 sc, dec, 11 sc (44)
29-31. 3 rows (44)
32.10 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 10 sc (42)
33-34. 2 rows (42)
35. (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36)
36.36 sc
37. (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)
38.30 sc
39. (3 sc, dec) * 6 ( 24)
40.24
sb We fill to the end. Sew on the head.

Sleeves (for hippo)
Knit with the color of the T-shirt.
We collect 10 VP + 3 lifting loops.
From the 4th loop from the hook we knit 3 CCHs, then to the end of the chain we knit 4 CCHs in each loop.
Sew to the body. We sew it so that in the middle of the sleeve we sew the hand of the hippopotamus, and it is exactly in the middle.

Hands (2 parts)
1.5 sc in CA (5)
2. pr * 5 (10)
3. (4 sc, pr) * 2 (12)
4-13. 10 rows (12)
14.6 ss, 6 sbn (12)
15-22. 8 rows (12)
23.5 ub
Close knitting. We attach the hands to the body with a thread fastener.

Tail for dinosaur
1.4 sc in CA (4)
2. pr * 4 (8)
3.8 sc
4. (1 sc, pr) * 4 (12)
5-6. 2 rows (12)
7. (1 sbn, pr) * 8 (18)
8-9. 2 rows (18)

Scallop for dinosaur
20 VP + 1 p, in the 2nd loop from the hook we knit a report from sbn, psn, 3 ccn, psn, sbn, then 2 cc and repeat the report to the end of the chain.
At the end, we fix the thread, but do not cut it.
Sew the comb to the head.

More Amigurumi Dinosaur And Hippo İdeas:

• 250g Purple Cotton Aran/Worsted Weight Yarn 
• 3mm Crochet Hook (I use Clover Amour Crochet Hooks)
• Blunt End Yarn Needle
• 9mm Safety Eyes
• Polyester Toy Stuffing
• Scissors
• Stitch Markers

Difficulty: Moderate difficulty – Beginners may struggle with crocheting around a chain, the bobble toes and the large size of this amigurumi.
Must know how to work in the round, increase, invisible decrease, & chain..

This pattern uses the following U.S stitches & abbreviations:

• st = stitch
• sc = single crochet (double crochet for UK)
• dc = double crochet (treble crochet for UK)
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• 2tog = 2 stitches together (decrease) 
• bobble stitch (also known as the popcorn stitch or double crochet cluster – explained below)

How To: Bobble Stitch
The bobble stitch is used to create the hippo’s toes in this pattern. Also known as the popcorn stitch or double crochet cluster! When the pattern says “bobble” you do one of these special stitches.
1. Wrap yarn around hook
2. Insert hook into stitch
3. Yarn over, pull through
4. Yarn over, pull through first 2 loops on your hook.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 another four times until you have 6 loops on your hook.
6. Yarn over, pull through all 6 loops to create a little bobble!
The bobble will probably puff towards the inside of your work as opposed to outside. Simply finish the entire round then go back and use the blunt end of your hook or a pen to push the bobbles the right way out.

Not:
Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral unless stated otherwise. It is a good idea to use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round (You can use a bent paper clip or hair grip!) My notes, tips and further instructions are in italics.

Head:
Crocheting around a chain can be daunting at first, but it’s great for making an oval shaped piece instead of a typical, perfectly round amigurumi. To avoid holes in the front of your work I recommend working into the “back bumps” of your chain instead of the top (back) loop as you would usually do. Check out this link (courtesy of My Hobby Is Crochet) for a great tutorial about working in the back bumps of a chain.Starting from end of the snout and working to the back of the head:
Round 1) Ch 6               
Skip first chain
Put a stitch marker in the first sc you make. This will make sure you will work into the correct first stitch of the next round and do not try to work into the skipped chain.
                1sc in the next 4 chs               
3sc in last ch
Now turn your work and start crocheting in the other side of the chain. For this side, you will see you now have both loops of the chain to work in like a normal stitch! Start working in the stitch left from the slip knot.
               1sc in the next 3 sts               
2sc in last st. (12)
Put a stitch marker in the last stitch you just did. You should now have 12 sts around. Now we start crocheting in the round as normal. Make sure you don’t try to crochet into the skipped first chain of round 1! Skip that entirely.
Round 2) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (18)
Round 3) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (24)
Round 4) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (30)
Round 5) 4sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (36)
Round 6) 5sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (42)
Round 7) 6sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (48)
Round 8-16) 1sc in each st; for 9 rows total (48)
Round 17) 6sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (42)
Round 18) 5sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (36)
Round 19) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (54)
Round 20) 8sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (60)
Round 21) 9sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (66)
Round 22-30) 1sc in each st; for 9 rows total (66)

Attach 10mm black safety eyes to your piece. Mine are attached between rounds 19 and 20 and roughly 5 stitches apart for your reference. Make sure the starting oval at the end of your snout is positioned horizontally when you attach the eyes otherwise your snout will look oddly shaped! Make sure the backs of your safety eyes are “snapped” all the way down to the bottom of the stock. If your hippo is for a small child it may be safer to embroider your eyes using black embroidery thread – safety eyes are not always safe, despite the name!

Round 31) 9sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (60)
Round 32) 8sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (54)
Round 33) 7sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (48)
Round 34) 6sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (42)
Round 35) 5sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (36)
Round 36) 4sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (30)
Start stuffing the head. 

Round 37) 3sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (24)
Round 38) 2sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (18)
Round 39) 1sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (12)
Add in any more stuffing you need at this point – now we close our head piece!
Round 40) 2tog all the way around (6)
Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long yarn tail. Weave yarn tail in and out of the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close the hole. Knot yarn and hide the yarn tail inside the head.

Ears (Make 2):
Round 1) Magic circle with 6sc (6)
Round 2) 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (18)
Round 4-9) 1sc in each st; for 6 rounds total (18)
Slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff ears. Push both corners of the open end of the ear together to form a cute little hippo ear and sew to the head in this position.

Nostrils (Make 2):
Each nostril is just 2 magic circles (that have not been fully closed) sewn together. 
1. Simply make 2 separate magic circles with 6sc but do not pull the circle tightly closed. Leave a hole in the middle so our hippo can breathe!
2. Fasten each off leaving a long tail for sewing and sew them one on top of the other.
Sew the nostrils to the head. My nostrils are sewn roughly between rounds 8 and 9 of the head for your reference.

Body:
Round 1) Magic Circle with 6sc (6)
Round 2) 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (18)
Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (24)
Round 5) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (30)
Round 6) 4sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (36)
Round 7) 5sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (42)
Round 8) 6sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (48)
Round 9) 7sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (54)
Round 10) 8sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (60)
Round 11) 9sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (66)
Round 12) 10sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (72)
Round 13-27) 1sc in each st; for 15 rounds total (72)
Round 28) 10sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (66)
Round 29) 1sc in each st (66)
Round 30) 9sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (60)
Round 31) 1sc in each st (60)
Round 32) 8sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (54)
Round 33) 1sc in each st (54)
Round 34) 7sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (48)
Round 35) 1sc in each st (48)
Round 36) 6sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (42)
Round 37) 1sc in each st (42)
Round 38) 5sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (36)
Round 39) 1sc in each st (36)
Round 40) 4sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (30)
Round 41-42) 1sc in each st; for 2 rounds total (30)
Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly but please don’t over stuff!

Leg (Make 2):
Starting from the sole of the foot and working to the top of the leg:
Round 1) Magic Circle with 6sc (6)
Round 2) 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (18)
Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (24)
Round 5) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (30)
Round 6) 4sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (36)

Important please read: Round 7 is where we make the hippos cute little toes using the bobble stitch! There are instructions on how to do the bobble stitch at the beginning of the pattern. This entire round is back loop only except for the first sc after each bobble stitch. Each bobble needs an sc after it to “pull” it down and make it puff out – this sc should be done through both loops. If you don’t go through both loops you may end up with a horrid looking hole where one loop has too much stress on it. Every bobble should be done in the back loop only.

Round 7) Back loop only: 1sc in the next 13 sts
               1 bobble in the next st
               1sc in the next 2 stitches (first sc should be both loops, second should be back loop only!)
               1 bobble in the next st,
               1sc in the next st, (both loops)
               1 bobble in the next st
               1sc in the next 2 stitches (first sc should be both loops, second should be back loop only!)
               1 bobble in the next st
               1sc in the next st, (both loops)
Back loop only: 1sc in each of the remaining 13 sts (36)The bobbles will probably puff towards the inside of your work as opposed to outside. Simply finish the entire round then go back and use the blunt end of your hook or a pen to push the bobbles the right way out.Back to working in both loops now!

Round 8-10) 1sc in each st; for 3 rounds total (36)
Round 11) 4sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (30)
Round 12) 1sc in each st (30)
Round 13) 3sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (24)
Round 14-28) 1sc in each st; for 15 rounds total (24)
Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the leg making sure not to overstuff so the palm of the hippo stays flat.

Arms (Make 2):
Starting from the sole of the hand and working to the top of the arm:
Round 1) Magic Circle with 6sc (6)
Round 2) 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (18)
Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (24)
Round 5) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until the end of the round (30)

Important please read: Round 6 is where the bobbles come in again! This round is nearly the exact same as the bobble round on the feet. There are instructions on how to do the bobble stitch at the beginning of the pattern. This entire round is back loop only except for the first sc after each bobble stitch. Each bobble needs an sc after it to “pull” it down and make it puff out – this sc should be done through both loops. If you don’t go through both loops you may end up with a horrid looking hole where one loop has too much stress on it. Every bobble should be done in the back loop only.

Round 6) Back loop only: 1sc in the next 10 sts
               1 bobble in the next st
               1sc in the next 2 stitches (first sc should be both loops, second should be back loop only!)
               1 bobble in the next st,
               1sc in the next st, (both loops)
               1 bobble in the next st
               1sc in the next 2 stitches (first sc should be both loops, second should be back loop only!)
               1 bobble in the next st
               1sc in the next st, (both loops)
Back loop only: 1sc in each of the remaining 10 sts (30)The bobbles will probably puff towards the inside of your work as opposed to outside. Simply finish the entire round then go back and use the blunt end of your hook or a pen to push the bobbles the right way out.
Back to working in both loops now!
Round 7-9) 1sc in each st; for 3 rounds total (30)
Round 10) 3sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (24)
Round 11) 1sc in each st (24)
Round 12) 2sc then 2tog, repeat until the end of the round (18)
Round 13-30) 1sc in each st; for 18 rounds total (18)

Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the arm making sure not to overstuff so the palm of the hippo stays flat.
I know most people hate the sewing part of amigurumi. The following is the easiest order I have found for assembling your hippo:
1. Sew the nostrils to the head (if you haven’t already)
2. Sew the ears to the head
3. Sew the head to the body.
4. Sew the arms to the body, they go directly under the head at either side.
5. Sew the legs to the body.

• YarnArt Jeans yarn
• 1.5 mm crochet hook
• Plastic eyes
• Two buttons
• Yarn needle and scissors
• Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R – row
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
tr – treble crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4-10 : 18 sc (7 rows)
R 11: we connect the legs in the center with 3 sc (side by side), then we crochet 15 sc on the 1st leg, 15 sc on the 2nd leg

Continue crocheting in the round:
R 12: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 13: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
Stuff with fiberfill.
R 14-20: 42 sc (7 rows)
R 21: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 22: 36 sc [36]
R 23: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 24-25: 30 sc (2 rows)
R 26: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 27: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Finish stuffing.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Head
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7-11: 36 sc (5 rows)
R 12: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
R 13: 42 sc [42]
R 14: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [48]
Sew eyes on the R 14.
R 15-16: 48 sc (2 rows)
R 17: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 18: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 19: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 20: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 21: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Stuff with fiberfill.
Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3-6: 12 sc (4 rows)
R 7-8: 6 hdc, 6 sc [12]
R 9-13: 12 sc (5 rows)
R 14: (dec) repeat 6 times [6]
Stuff 1/3 full.
Fasten off. (pic 7)

Muzzle
R 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5]
R 2: From the 2nd ch from hook: 3 sc, 3 sc in one st, turn and continue crocheting on the opposite side of chain: 3 sc, 3 sc in one st [12]
R 3: 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc [18]
R 4: 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [24]
R 5: 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) repeat 3 times, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [30]
R 6: 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) repeat 3 times, 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [36]
R 7-9: 36 sc (3 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
(pic 8)
Sew muzzle to the head. Put some stuffing inside the muzzle before you finish.
Sew buttons for nostrils on the muzzle.

Ears (make 2)
Make 2 ch.
In the 2nd ch from hook: 2 sc, dc, 2 tr, dc, 2 sc [8]
Pull off.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew ears on the head.

Bib
Make 8 ch.
R 1: In the 2nd ch from hook: 6 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn: 6 sc (on the opposite side) [15]
R 2: 1 ch, turn, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc [18]
R 3: 1 ch, turn, 4 DC, 1 ch, skip the next st, sl st, 1 ch, skip the next st, 4 DC, 1 ch, skip the next st, sl st, 1 ch, skip the next st, 4 DC, 1 ch, skip the next st, sl st, 1 ch, skip the next st, 4 DC, 1 ch, skip the next st, sl st, 1 ch, skip the next st, 4 DC, sl st
Strings (make 2)
Make 40 ch.

• Yarn YarnArt Jeans
• 2.25 mm crochet hook
• 8 mm safety eyes
• Yarn needle
• Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
BLO – back loop only
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Muzzle
With grey yarn:
Make 7 ch.
Make an oval, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
R 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: inc, 4 sc, 3 sc in last st, on the other side: 5 sc [14]
R 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, inc [20]
R 3: inc, 1 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 1 sc [26]
R 4: inc, 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 2 sc [32]
R 5: 32 sc
R 6: 6 sc, puff stitch, 8 sc, puff stitch, 16 sc [32]
R 7-8: 32 sc (2 rows)
R 9: (6 sc, dec) repeat 4 times (28)
R 10: 28 sc

Ears (make 2)
With grey yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3-6: 12 sc (4 rows)

Head
With grey yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3:(1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
R 8: (6 sc, inc ) repeat 6 times [48]
R 9 – 17: 48 sc (9 rows)
R 18: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 19: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 20: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 21: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 22: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 23: 18 sc

Arms (make 2)
With grey yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (3 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [15]
R 4-6. : 15 sc (3 rows)
With black yarn:
R 7 – 8: 15 sc (2 rows)
With white yarn:
R 9: (3 sc, dec) repeat 3 times [12]
R 10: 12 sc
With black yarn:
R 11 – 12: 12 sc
With white yarn:
R 13: (2 sc, dec) repeat 3 times [9]
R 14: 9 sc
With black yarn:
R 15 – 16: 9 sc (2 rows)
With white yarn:
R 17 – 18: 9 sc (2 rows)
With black yarn:
R 19 – 20: 9 sc (2 rows)
With white yarn:
R 21 – 22: 9 sc (2 rows)
With black yarn:
R 23 – 24: 9 sc (2 rows)

Tail
With grey yarn:
Make 7 ch.
From the 2nd chain from hook: 6 sl st.

Legs (make 2)
With grey yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4 – 6: 18 sc (3 rows)
With red yarn:
R 7 – 13: 18 sc (7 rows)
Don’t cut the yarn on the second leg!

Body
From second leg: 5 ch, join the first leg.
Continue crocheting in the round:
R 1: 18 sc on the first leg, sc in 5 ch, 18 sc on the second leg, sc in 5 ch (opposite side) [46]
R 2: 18 sc on the first leg, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 18 sc on the second leg, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc [52]
R 3 – 8: 52 sc (6 rows)
R 9: (11 sc, dec) repeat 4 times  [48]
R 10: 48 sc
R 11: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 12: 42 sc, joining a tail [42] (view video 13:20)
With black yarn:
R 13: BLO 42 sc
R 14: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
With white yarn:
R 15 – 16: 36 sc (2 rows)
With black yarn:
R 17 – 18: 36 sc (2 rows)
With white yarn:
R 19 – 20: 36 sc
With black yarn:
R 21: 36 sc
R 22: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
With white yarn:
R 23: 30 sc
R 24: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
With black yarn:
R 25-26: 24 sc, joining arms
With white yarn:
R 27: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]

Strap 
With red yarn:
Make 30 + 4 ch (4 ch for a button loop).
In the 5th ch from hook: 30 sl st.

Legs – body – head (fit in one piece)

Legs (2 parts)
1: 6 PRS per ka (6)
2:PR* 6 times (12)
5: (1 PRS, PR) * 6 times (18)
4-7: No changes 4 rows (18)
Fasten and cut the thread.

Similarly, we knit the second leg, but we do not cut the thread, but we do 1 VP, then we knit: 
8: 18 sbn on the 1st leg, 1 sbn in the VP, 18 sbn on the 2nd leg, 1 sbn in the VP (38)

Body
9: (8 sbn, pr) * 4, 2 sbn (42)
10: (6 sbn, pr) * 6 times (48)
11: No change (48)
12: (7 sbn, pr) * 6 times ( 54)
13-14: No change 2 rows (54)
15: (8 SBN, D) * 6 times (60)
16-18: No change 3 rows (60)
19: (8 SBN, UB) * 6 times ( 54)
20: No change (54)
21: (7 SBN, UB) * 6 times (48)
22: No change (48)
23: (6 SBN, UB) * 6 times (42)
24: (5 SBN, UB) * 6 times (36)
25: No change (36)
26: (4 SBN, UB) * 6 times (30)
27: No change (30)
28: (3 SBN, UB) * 6 times (24)
29: UB * 12 times (12)

Head
30: pr * 12 times (24)
31: (3 prs, pr) * 6 times (30)
32: (4 prs, pr) * 6 times (36)
33: (5 prs, pr) * 6 times ( 42)
34: (6 sbn, pr) * 6 times (48)
35: (7 sbn, pr) * 6 times (54)
36: (8 sbn, pr) * 6 times (60)
37: (9 sbn, pr) * 6 times (66)
38-42: No change 5 rows (66)
43: (9 SBN, UB) * 6 times (60)
44: (8 SBN, UB) * 6 times (54)
45: ( 7 SBN, UB) * 6 times (48)
46: (6 SBN, UB) * 6 times (42)
47: No change (42)
48: (5 SBN, UB) * 6 times (36)
49: (4 SBN, UB) * 6 times (30)
50: (3 SBN, UB) * 6 times (24)
51: (2 SBN, UB) * 6 times (18)
52: (1 SBN, UB) * 6 times ( 12)
53: UB * 6 times (6)
 Pens(2 parts) 
1: 6 PRS per ka (6) 
2: PR * 6 times (12) 
3: (1 PRS, PR) * 6 times (18) 
4-5: No change 2 rows (18) 
6: UB * 2 times, 14 SBN (16) 
7: UB * 2 times, 12 SBN (14) 
8-14: No change 7 rows (14) 
15: UB * 7 times (7)

Insert the joints (if you are moving hands) and tighten the hole. 
Or fold in half and knit 7 sc (if the pens are sewn), in this case we do not knit the 15th row.

Ears (2 parts)
1: 6 sc in ka (6)
2: pr * 6 times (12)
ss, fasten and cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing.

Tail
Dial a chain of 10 VP. 
Starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, in each knit 2 sc. 
Cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing.

Muzzle
Collect a chain of 6 VP. We knit on both sides of the chain, forming an oval. 
1: pr in the 2nd loop from the hook, 3 sbn, 3 sbn in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 3 sbn, pr
2: pr, 2 sbn, pr * 3 times, 3 sbn, pr * 2 times
3: pr, 4 sbn, pr, 2 sbn, pr, 5 sbn, pr
4: pr * 2 times, 8 sbn, pr * 2 times, 9 sbn
5: pr, 2 sbn, pr, 9 sbn, pr, 2 sbn, pr
6-8: Put the marker, knit unchanged 3 rows. 
9: UB, 5 SBN, UB, 4 SBN, UB, 3 SBN, UB, 3 SBN, UB, ss
Trim and leave the tip for sewing.

We
close a life ring 12 VP in a circle and knit in a circle without changes to the desired length. 
Then we fix the thread, leave the tip for sewing. 
We sew the beginning and the end with a needle.

The author knitted the circle so that it did not fall from the waist, so she sewed the edges, putting the circle on a hippo.

Hat
1: 6 sbn in ka (6)
2: pr * 6 times (12)
3: (1 sbn, pr) * 6 times (18)
4. (2 sbn, pr) * 6 times (24)
5. ( 3 sbn, pr) * 6 times (30)
6. (4 sbn, pr) * 6 times (36)
7. (5 sbn, pr) * 6 times (42)
8-13. Unchanged 6 rows (42)
14. pr in each loop
15. (1 sbn, pr) – in a circle
16-17. No change 2 rows

To make the hat fields wider, you can knit a few more row without changes.