Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

Magic ring:
Many parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

EYES: Placements are up to you since it’s personal preference. I put this puppy’s eyes in between the 11th and 12th row with 5 visible stitch holes between them.

Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
11) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
12-16) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
Now is the time to put in the safety eyes if you’re using them.
17)1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
If you start to see gaps while you decrease then try the inv dec
18) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
19) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
20) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
Stuff majority of head. Push the stuffing to the top of the head then make sure to get stuffing all around the sides of the face and neck area. Shape as you stuff. It will take lots of stuffing. You will stuff more in a few more rows.
22-24) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
25) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
26) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
27) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
28-31) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
32) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
33) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
34) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
35) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
Stuff the body.. make sure to fill in any gaps in the neck area. Also be sure to get all around the bottom of the belly. The belly should be nice and fat.
36) 1sc then 2tog (12)
37) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches. Add more stuffing as needed then pull yarn tail tight to close gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail in the body.

Muzzle:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6) No need to pull the center hole too tight as you will go through this hole when you whip stitch the nose in.
2) 2sc in each st around (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 2st, then 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 10st then 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 8st (28)
6-7) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
8) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)
9) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
10) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
How to stitch the nose in is on the assembly page.

Ears:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (18)
4) 1sc in each st for 1 row
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (21)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (18)
8) 1sc in each st for 1 row
9) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
10-11) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
12) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
13-14) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
15) Do not stuff ear. fold ear flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
4-5) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
8-14) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
Stuff hand after 1 or 2 rows. Lightly stuff arm when you’re done leaving the last 2 or 3 rows unstuffed.
15) fold top of arm flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5-7) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
9) 1sc then 2tog (12)
10-15) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
Stuff foot after 2 rows. At the end of row 15, stuff more into the foot, pushing stuffing into what will be the “heel” of the foot.
If you want a puppy that sits then leave the last 3 rows of the legs unstuffed and then continue onto row 16. If you want a puppy that is in a permanent standing position, then stuff the entire leg and f/o now leaving a long tail for sewing.
16) Look at where your last stitch landed then look at the shape of the foot, you might have to put 1sc in a couple more stitches to get to the side of the leg. Fold leg flat and sc through both sides across, closing up the top of the leg. ch1 and turn
17) 1sc in each st across
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Eye lids:  Optional
1) ch6 *starting tail should be long enough to sew into head.
2) starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in next st, 2dc in next 2st, 1hdc in next st, sl st last st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Tail:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc in each st for 1 row
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
4-10) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
*stuff as you go, leaving the last 2 or 3 rows unstuffed.
11) fold top of tail flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Dog Ideas:

Optional Materials – 
If you would like your puppy to be weighted (this helps in balancing/stability in a sitting position) you will also want the following materials:
– Poly-pellets – approx. 1/2 – 1 cup
– Knee-high nylon (I found a package at Wal-Mart for 50 cents; if you are choosing a light colored yarn for your puppy you may want to also use a light colored nylon for your weight)
– Funnel (a rolled up piece of paper will also do the trick, this helps in filling the nylon with the small poly-pellets)

Abbreviations (US terminology)
SC- Single crochet
SC INC- Single crochet increase
INV DEC- Invisible decrease
Rep – Repeat
St(s) – Stitch(es)

Magic Circle
A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi.
1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below.
2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail.
3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1.
4. You’re magic circle is complete and ready to begin as pattern instructs (ex: if round says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop).
5. Pull your tail tight to close.

Invisible Decrease
This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the ‘bump’ of a regular SC decrease.
An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the next stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook.
You’re invisible decrease is done!

Notes –
· Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in a continuous round; I recommend using a stitch marker at the beginning or end of each round.
· For this pattern the body and head will be made as one piece.
You can find more tips for stuffing your amigurumi here!

Nose –
With accent color
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Rounds 5-7: SC around (24)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert your safety nose just above the middle point. I placed mine between rounds 2 and 3.

Body-
With body color
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 6: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)
Round 7: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)
Round 8: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)
Rounds 9-15: SC around (48)
Round 16: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)
Round 17-18: SC around (42)
Round 19: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)
Rounds 20-21: SC around (36)
Round 22: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)
Rounds 23-24: SC around (30)
Round 25: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)
Rounds 26-27: SC around (24)
Round 28: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)
Rounds 29-30: SC around (18)

*We will now start the head*
Round 31: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 32: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 33: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)
Round 34: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)
Round 35: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)
Round 36: SC in the first 7 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (54)
Rounds 37-45: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 42 and 43, 8 stitches apart. Optional: Add eyelashes/eyebrows to your liking.
Lastly, sew your nose centered between the eyes slowly stuffing as you go.
Round 46: SC in the first 7 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48)
Round 47: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)
Round 48: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)
Round 49: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 50: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)

*Continue to stuff the head firmly
Round 51: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 52: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)
Round 53: INV DEC around (6)
Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.

Arms-
Make 2 starting with your accent color and stuffing lightly.
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Rounds 5-7: SC around (24)
Round 8: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 9: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Change to body color
Rounds 10-23: SC around (12)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.

Legs –
Make 2 starting with your accent color and stuffing lightly.
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)
Rounds 6-8: SC around (30)
Round 9: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 10: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Change to body color
Rounds 11-21: SC around (18)
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Ears –
Make 2 with accent color. Do not stuff.
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 6: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)
Rounds 7-9: SC around (36)
Round 10: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)
Rounds 11-12: SC around (30)
Round 13: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)
Rounds 14-15: SC around (24)
Round 16: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)
Rounds 17-18: SC around (18)
At the end of round 18 pinch the ear flat and make 9 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Tail –
With accent color
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 3-4: SC around (12)
Round 5: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 6: SC around (18)

Change to body color
Rounds 7-9: SC around (18)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.

Assembly
Optional: Use pins to hold each piece, this will help in finding the desired placement. Use your facial features as your centered point.
1. Sew the ears onto either side of the head at round 5.
2. Next, sew on the arms covering a span of 4 rounds angled down.
3. Third, attach the legs covering a span of about 5 rounds angled straight (forward).
4. Lastly, sew the tail onto the bottom center of the back, stuffing as you go.

More Amigurumi Dog Ideas:

Legend:
KA – amigurumi ring
Sbn – single crochet
Pssn – half-crochet
Ssn – double
crochet Ss2n – double crochet
Bp – air loop
Cc – connecting post
Pr – increase
Ub – decrease
When publishing your toy according to this description, please include the name of the author.

Upper legs (2 parts)
1p. 8 sbn in spacecraft
2p.-8p. 8 SBN
Fold and knit 4 SBN, VP, leave the thread for sewing. Embroider the claws with three stitches.
Paw pads
1p. 8 in CA, ss
Sew to the inner side of the paw.

Lower legs (2 parts)
1p. We collect 10 Vp, with the 2nd 8 Sbn, in the last 3 Sbn, on the other side 7 Sbn, pr = 20
2p. Pr, 7 Sbn, 3 Ave, 9 Sbn = 24
3p. For the back wall 24 SBN
4p. 24 SBN
5p. Ub, 6 Sbn, 4 Kb, 6 Sbn, Kb = 18
6 rubles. Kb, 4 Sbn, 3 Kb, 4 Sbn, Kb = 13
7p. 2 Sbn, 2 Kb, 1 Sbn, 2 Kb, 2 Sbn = 9
8p. 9 SBN
Fill.
9 rubles-10 rubles 9 Sbn
At the end of ss, leave the thread for sewing.
Embroider the claws with three stitches.

Body
1p. 8 sbn in spacecraft
2p. Pr x 8 times = 16
3p. Pr x 16 times = 32
4p. 2 Sbn, pr x 10 times, 2 Sbn = 42
5r. 6 SBN, pr x 6 times = 48
6 rubles-17 rubles. 48 SBN
Next, weknit theupper legs.
18 rub. 34 sbn, 4 sbn on the paw, 10 sbn = 48
19 rubles. 8 sbn, 4 sbn on the paw, 36 sbn = 48
20 rubles. 48 SBN
Next, we continue to knit the head.
21 rub. 7 SBN, pr x 6 times = 54
22r. 8 SBN, pr x 6 times = 60
23r. 9 SBN, pr x 6 times = 66
24 rubles-26rubles. 66 SBN
27 rubles. 9 SBN, UB x 6 times = 60
28r. 8 SBN, UB x 6 times = 54
29 rubles-32rubles. 54 SBN
33 rub. 7 SBN, UB x 6 times = 48
34 rubles. 6 SBN, UB x 6 times = 42
Between 30r. and 31r. insert eyes. Where the beginning of the row (seam) is the back.
35 rub. 5 Sbn, Kb x 6 times = 36
36 rubles. 4 SBN, UB x 6 times = 30
37r. 3 Sbn, Kb x 6 times = 24
38r. 2 SBN, UB x 6 times = 18
39r. 1 SBN, UB x 6 times = 12
40r. Ub x 6 times = 6
Close the hole, hide the thread.

Spots on the eyes
First:
1p. 6 in the spacecraft.
2p. Pr x 6 times = 12
SS, leave thread for sewing.

Second:
1p. Cast on 6 VP, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 4 SBN, in the last 3 SBN, on the other side of the chain: 3 SBN, pr = 12
2p. 12 Sbn

Nose
1p. We collect 8 VP, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 6 SBN, in the last 3 SBN, on the other side of the chain: 5 SBN, pr = 16
2p. 16 Sb
Ss, leave the thread for sewing.

We embroider the white of the eyes in white. Sew on the nose, embroider the eyebrows, the navel with a cross.

Ears (2 parts)
1p. 6 sbn in spacecraft
2p. Pr x 6 times = 12
3p. 1 sbn, pr x 6 times = 18
4r. 2 SBN, pr x 6 times = 24
5r. 2 SBN, UB x 6 times = 18
6r. 1 SBN, UB x 6 times = 12
7 rubles-10rubles. 12 Sat
11 rubles. 2 SBN, UB x 3 times = 9
12r. 9 Sat.
13r. 1 Sbn, Kb x 3 times = 6
Fold and knit 3 Sbn, Bn, leave the thread for sewing.

Hat in
Green:
1p. 6 sc in the spacecraft
Change the color to orange:
2p. Pr x 6 times = 12
3p. 1 sbn, pr x 6 times = 18
4r. 2 SBN, pr x 6 times = 24
5 rubles – 7 rubles. 24 SBN
8p. 3 SBN, pr x 6 times = 30
9 rubles-10rubles. 30 Sat
11 rubles. 4 SBN, pr x 6 times = 36
12 rubles-13 rubles. 36 Sb
Ss at the end, leave the thread for sewing. Fill.
Leaf We collect
7 Bn, with the 2nd Sbn, pssn, Ssn, Pssn, Sbn, in the last 3 Sbn, on the other side Sbn, Pssn, Ssn, Pssn, Sbn, ss.
Leave the thread for sewing.

Scarf We
collect 72 VP, we begin to knit in the third from the hook along the chain 70 Сс2н.
First we sew the end of the scarf near the left paw, wrap it around the neck, sew the other end near the right paw.

Sew on a button for decoration.
Tail
1p. 6 sbn in spacecraft
2p. Pr x 6 times = 12
3p-4p. 12 sbn 5r. 
Kb x 6 times = 6
SS, leave thread for sewing. Fill.

More Amigurumi Puppy İdeas:

Legend:
sbn – single crochet
to a – amigurumi ring
pr – increase
ub – decrease
in n – air loop

Handles (2 parts)
We start knitting with red yarn:
1 row: 6sc in an amigurumi ring (6)
2 row: 6pr (12)
3 row: (1sc, pr) x 6 times (18)
4-6 row: 18sc (18 )
7 row: (1sbn, ub) x 6 times (12)

Leave the long end of the red thread on the outside. Later we will tighten the foot with this thread. Change the color of the yarn to yellow: Stuff the piece by 2/3 as you knit. 
8-22 row: we knit 18 rows of 12sc (12) 
Fold the part in half, knit 6 sc. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Legs (2 parts)
We start knitting with purple yarn:
1 row: a chain of 7 VP (7)
2 row: 5sc from the second loop 4from the hook, 3sc in the last loop of the chain, 4sc, pr (14)
3 row: pr, 4sc, 3pr, 4sbn, 2pr (20) 
4th row: pr, 5sbn, (pr, 1sbn) x 2 times, pr, 5sc, (pr, 1sbn) x 2 times (26)
5 row: pr, 2sbn, pr, 4sbn , (pr, 2sbn) x 2 times, pr, 6sbn, pr, 3sc (32)
6 row: we knit 32 sc for the back wall andloops (32)
7 row: 32sc for both walls of the loop (32) 
8 row: 10sc, ( ub, 2sbn) x 3 times, ub, 8sbn (28)
9 row: 8sbn, (ub, 1sbn) x 4 times, ub, 6sbn (23)
10 row: 6sbn, (ub, 1sbn) x 3 times, ub, 4sbn, ub (18)
Cut thepurple thread, leaving a long end for tightening the legs.

Change the color of the yarn to yellow:
We fill the leg in the course of knitting for 2/3 of the part. 
Row 11-31: knit 20 rows 18sc (18) 
Fold the part in half, knit 10sc. 
Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Tightening

Next, we tighten the handles and legs, as shown in the photo below. We make two stitches from the center to the periphery with the corresponding color of the yarn and tighten them. The colored tips of the feet are embossed.

Body
We knit with yellow yarn: 
1 row: 6 sc in the amigurumi ring (6) 
2 row: 6 pr (12) 
3 row: (1sc, pr) x 6 times (18) 
4 row: (2sc, pr) x 6 times ( 24) 
5 row: (3sc, pr) x 6 times (30) 
6 row: (4sc, pr) x 6 times (36) 
7 row: (5sc, pr) x 6 times (42)
8 row: (6sc, pr) x 6 times (48) 
9 row: (7sc, pr) x 6 times (54) 
10 row: (8sc, pr) x 6 times (60) 
11-21 row: 10 rows by 60 sc (60) 
22 row: (10sc, ub) x 5 times (55) 
23-24 row: 55 sc (55)
We fill the body tightly along the knitting. 
25 row: (9sc, ub) x 5 times (50) 
26 row: 50 sc (50) 
27 row: (8sc, ub) x 5 times (45) 
28 row: 45 sc (45) 
29 row: (7sc, dec) x 5 times (40) 
30 row: 40 sc (40) 
31 row: (6sc, dec) x 5 times (35) 
32 row: 35 sc (35) 
33 row: (5sc, dec) x 5 times ( 30) 
34 row: 30 sc (30) 
35 row: (4sc, ub) x 5 times (25) 
36 row: 25 sc (25)
Cut the thread, leaving the long end for sewing on the head.

Tail
We knit with yellow yarn: 
1 row: 5 sbn in a (5) 
2 row: 5 sbn (5) 
3 row: 4 sbn, pr (6) 
4 row: 6 sbn (6) 
5 row: 5sc, pr (7 ) 
6 row: 7 sc (7) 
7 row: 6 sc, pr (8) 
8 row: 7 sc, pr (9) 
9 row: 8 sc, pr (10) 
10-11 row: 10 sc
Trim the thread, leaving end for sewing. 
Do not stuff the tail. 

Spot
We knit with green yarn: 
1 row: a chain of 4 ch 
2 row: 2 sbn, 3 sbn in the last loop of the chain, 1 sbn, pr (8) 
3 row: pr, 1 sbn, 3 pr, 2 sbn, 2pr (14 ) 
4 row: pr, 2 sbn, (pr, 1 sbn) x 2 times, pr, 2 sbn, pr, 1sbn, pr (20)
Cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.

Ear (2 parts)
1 row: 6 sc in ka (6) 
2nd row: 6pr (12) 
3 row: (1sc, pr) x 6 times (18) 
4-5 row: 18sc (18) 
6 row: (2sc, pr) x 6 times (24) 
7-21 row: 14 rows of 24sc (24) 
22 row: (2sc, ub) x 6 times (18) 
23-24 row: 18sc (18)  
Fold the part in half and knit 9sc. 
Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Spout

Knit with brown Iris threads, crochet 1.0 mm

1 row: 8sbn in K.A. (eight)
2nd row: 8pr (16)
3 row: (1sbn, pr) x 8 times (24)
4 row: (2sbn, pr) x 8 times (32)
5-8 row: 32sc (32)
Cut the  thread, leaving a long end for  sewing, as well as  embroidery of the muzzle and eyebrows!In the process of sewing on the spout, fill in a little filler to keep the shape. 

Head
We knit with yellow yarn:

1 row: 6sbn in to a (6) 
2nd row: 6pr (12) 
3rd row: (1sbn, pr) x 6 times (18)
4 row: (2sbn, pr) x 6 times (24)
5 row: (3sbn, pr) x 6 times (30)
6 row: (4sbn, pr) x 6 times (36)
7-14 row: 8 rows of 36sc (36)
15 row: (1sbn, pr) x 6 times, (5sbn, pr) x 4 times (46)
16 row: (2sbn, pr) x 6 times, (6sbn, pr) x 4 times (56)
17-26 row: 10 rows of 56sc (56) We fill the part tightly as we knit. If you use ready-made eyes, then they can be attached between the 18th and 19th rows, having previously applied a stain. 
27 row: 12sc, ub, 26sc, ub, 14sc (54)  
28 row: (7sc, ub) x 6 times (48)
29 row: (6sbn, ub) x 6 times (42)
30 row: (5sbn, ub) x 6 times (36)
31 row: (4sbn, ub) x 6 times (30)
32 row: (3sbn, ub) x 6 times (24)
33 row: (2sbn, ub) x 6 times (18)
34 row: (1sbn, ub) x 6 times (12)
35 row: 6 kill (6)
Cut the thread, pull off the hole. 
Fasten and cut the thread.

Assembling the head 
Sew on the ears.
 Then we sew on the nose
 and embroider the muzzle.

Sew on the spot and eyes
 (if you
are using beads).
We embroider eyebrows.

Neck bandage options 
We can tie a neck band around the Puppy’s neck so that the toy looks finished:
1) Knitted scarfThe knitting principle is as follows: we collect the number of loops necessary for the neck girth. Next, we knit, alternating a row with front loops and a row with purl loops, making a decrease at the beginning and at the end of each row (we knit two loops together). Thus, we will get a triangle knitted with garter stitch. You can process the edge with a crochet sbn so that it does not twist and keep its shape.
2) Crochet scarfWe knit a chain of 70vp. We tie our chain of sbn.
3) Cloth handkerchiefCut out a triangle of the correct size from a suitable fabric. We process the edges on a typewriter.

Assembling the Puppy
Sew the legs, arms and tail to the body. 
Then we sew on the head. 
We knit a scarf or scarf.
And our Rainbow Puppy is ready!

More Amigurumi Puppy İdeas:

Head
1. 6 prs in KA (6)
2. 6 pr (12)
3. (1 prs, pr) * 6 (18)
4. (2 prs, pr) * 6 (24)
5. (3 prs, pr ) * 6 (30)
6. (4 sbn, PR) * 6 (36)
7. (5 sbn, PR) * 6 (42)
8. (6 sbn, PR) * 6 (48)
9. (7 sbn , PR) * 6 (54)
10. (8 sbn, PR) * 6 (60)
11. (9 sbn, PR) * 6 (66)
12-23. 66 sc (12 rows)
Insert eyes between rows 14 and 15 (6 loops between them).
24. (9 PRS, UB) * 6 (60)
25. (8 PRS, UB) * 6 (54)
26. (7 PRS, UB) * 6 (48)
27. (6 PRS, UB) * 6 ( 42)
28. (5 PRS, UB) * 6 (36)
29. (4 PRS, UB) * 6 (30)
30. (3 PRS, UB) * 6 (24)
31. (2 PRS, UB) * 6 (18)
Fill the head.
32. (1 sc, UB) * 6 (12)
33. 6 UB
Fill, tighten the hole, fasten and cut the thread.Ears (2 parts)
1. 6 prs in KA (6)
2. 6 PR (12)
3. (1 pr, PR) * 6 (18)
4. (2 prs, PR) * 6 (24)
5. ( 3 sbn, PR) * 6 (30)
6. (4 sbn, PR) * 6 (36)
7. (5 sbn, PR) * 6 (42)
8-13. 42 sb (6 rows)
14. (19 sb, UB) * 2 (40)
15. 40 sb
16. (18 sb, UB) * 2 (38)
17. 38 sb
18. (UB, 17 sb) * 2 (36)
19. 36 sb
20. (UB, 16 sb) * 2 (34)
21. 34 sb
22. (15 sb, UB) * 2 (32)
23. 32 sb
24. (UB, 14 sb) * 2 (30)
25. 30 sb
26. (UB, 13 sb) * 2 (28)
27. 28 sb
28. (UB, 12 sb) * 2 (26)
29. 26 sb
30. (UB, 11 sb) * 2 (24)
31. 24 sb
32. (UB, 10 sb) * 2 (22)
33. 22 sc
34. (UB, 9 sc) * 2 (20)
35. 20 sc
36. 1 ch, 10 sc for both sides of knitting.
Leave the thread for sewing.

Muzzle
1. 6 prs in KA (6)
2. 6 pr (12)
3. (1 prs, pr) * 6 (18)
4. (2 prs, pr) * 6 (24)
5. (3 prs, pr ) * 6 (30)
6. (4 sbn, PR) * 6 (36)
7-10. 36 sbn (4 rows)
Leave the thread for sewing.

Nose
With black thread:
1. Cast on 3 ch and from the second from the hook: PR, 3 sbn in one loop, sbn
2. 6 PR (12)
3. 12 sbn
Leave the thread for sewing.
Sew the muzzle to the head, filling it. Sew the nose to the muzzle and make embroidery on the muzzle with the same thread, as in the photo.

Forepaws (2 parts) In
white:
1. 6 prs in KA (6)
2. 6 pr (12)
3. (1 pr, pr) * 6 (18)
4. (2 pr, pr) * 6 (24 )
5-8. 24 sc (4 rows)
9. (2 sc, UB) * 6 (18)
10-14. 18 sbn (5 rows)
15. (4 sbn, UB) * 3 (15)
Change the color to brown:
16-26. 15 sc (11 rows)

Tail
We start in white:
1. 6 sbn in KA (6)
2. 6 sbn
3. 6 PR (12)
4. (3 sbn, PR) * 3 (15)
5. (4 sbn, PR) * 3 (18 )
6. (5 sbn, PR) * 3 (21)
7. (6 sbn, PR) * 3 (24)
Change the color to brown:
8-15. 24 sc (8 rows)
16. (6 sc, UB) * 3 (21)
17-19. 21 sb (3 rows)
20. (5 sb, UB) * 3 (18)
21. 18 sb
22. (4 sb, UB) * 3 (15)
23. (3 sb, UB) * 3 (12)
Leave sewing thread.

Lower legs (2 parts)
We start in white:
1. Dial 7 ch, from the second from the hook: PR, 4 sbn, 6 sbn in the last loop, 4 sbn, PR (18)
2. 2 PR, 4 sbn, 6 PR, 5 sbn, PR (27)
3. (1 sbn, PR) * 2, 4 sbn, (1 sbn, PR) * 6, 6 sbn, PR (36)
4. 2 sbn, PR, 11 sbn, (1 sbn , PR) * 4, 13 sb, PR (42)
5-7. 42 sb (3 rows)
8. 12 sb, (UB, sb) * 6, 12 sb (36)
9. 13 sb, 6 UB, 11 sb (30)
10. 10 sb, 6 UB, 8 sb (24)
11. 11 sc, 2 UB, 9 sc (22)
12-14. 22 sc (3 rows)
15. 6 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 4 sc (24)
16-18. 24 sc (3 rows)
19. 7 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 4 sc (26)
20-21. 26 sbn (2 rows)
Fill the legs and make a tightening for the fingers.

Cut the thread, knit another 9 sbn at the second leg, make 3 ch and continue to knit the torso.Torso
1. 26 sc along the left leg, 3 sc along the chain from ch, 26 sc along the right leg, 3 sc along the chain from ch (58)
2-4. 58 sbn (3 rows)
5. (28 sbn, PR) * 2 (60)
6-9. 60 sc (4 rows)
10. (8 sc, UB) * 6 (54)
11-12. 54 sc (2 rows)
13. (16 sc, UB) * 3 (51)
14-15. 51 sb (2 rows)
16. (15 sb, UB) * 3 (48)
17. 48 sb
18. (6 sb, UB) * 6 (42)
19. 42 sb
20. (5 sb, UB) * 6 (30)
21-22. 30 sc (2 rows)
23. (4 sc, UB) * 6 (30)
24-25. 30 sbn (2 rows)
26. (3 sbn, UB) * 6 (24)
27. 24 sbn
Fill the body.

Registration

We knit a spot :
1. 8 sbn in KA (8)
2. 8 PR (16)
3. We knit 7 sbn and cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.

ABBREVIATIONS
sc     single crochet
inc    increase
dec    decrease
BLO back loops only

HEAD
start with white yarnRnd 1:  make 6sc into magic ring
Rnd 2: inc in each st [12]
Rnd 3:  (sc, inc in next st) repeat around [18]
Rnd 4-6:  sc in all 18 st [18]
change to main color yarn
Rnd 7:  (sc, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [27]
Rnd 8: (3sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, 3sc [33]
Rnd 9:  sc in all 33 st
Rnd 10:  (4sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, 3sc [39]
Rnd 11:  sc in all 39  st
Rnd 12:  (5sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, 3sc [45]
Rnd 13:  sc in all 45 st
Rnd 14:  (5sc, dec) repeat 6 times, 3 sc [39]
Rnd 15:  (4sc, dec) repeat 6 times, 3sc [33]
Rnd 16:  sc in all st
Rnd 17:  (3sc, dec) repeat 6 times, 3sc [27]
Rnd 18:  sc in all 27 st

This is where I like to start stuffing the head and placing the eyes. (between rounds 7 & 8, with 9 stitches between). I like to get a general idea of the face because I like to sew the nose at this point as well. I can tie the loose ends inside the head while I still have enough room to work!
Rnd 19:  (2sc, dec) repeat 6 times, 3sc [21]
Finish stuffing the head if you need to
Rnd 20:  (sc, dec) repeat 6 times, 3sc [15]
Rnd 21: dec 7 times, sc [8]
Rnd 22: dec once, fasten off and weave in tail

Use a yarn needle and your dark grey yarn to sew the nose. I repeated this pattern over and over until the nose was filled in to my liking.

EARS (make 2)
Rnd 1:  make 4sc into magic ring
Rnd 2:  sc in all 4 st [4]
Rnd 3:  inc in each st [8]
Rnd 4:  sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 5:  (sc, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [12]
Rnd 6:  sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 7:  (2sc, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [16]
Rnd 8:  sc in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 9:  (sc, dec) repeat 5 times, sc [11]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.  Flatten the ears and sew the openings shut before attaching to head.

BODY
Rnd 1:  make 6sc into magic ring
Rnd 2:  inc in each st [12]
Rnd 3:  (sc, inc in next st) [18]
Rnd 4:  (2sc, inc in next st) [24]
Rnd 5:  (3sc, inc in next st) [30]
Rnd 6:  sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 7:  (4sc, inc in next st) [36]
Rnd 8:  (5sc, inc in next st) [42]
Rnd 9:  sc in all 42 st [42]
Rnd 10:  (5sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 11:  sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 12:  (4sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 13:  sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 14:  (3sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 15:  sc in all 24 st [24]
Rnd 16:  (2sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 17:  sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 18: (sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]   [Note: I like making my puppy with a small neck.. if you prefer a bigger neck, you can omit rounds 18 & 19 completely]
Rnd 19: sc in all 12 st [12]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the head on

ARM (make two)
start with white yarn
Rnd 1: make 6sc into magic ring
Rnd 2:  inc in each st [12]
Rnd 3:  sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 4:  (2sc, dec) repeat 3 times [9]
change to main color yarn
Rnd 5-7:  sc in all 9 st [9]
Rnd 8:  (2sc, dec) repeat twice, sc [7]
Rnd 9-10:  sc in all 7 st [7]
fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.  Stuff the arms, concentrating the stuffing towards the paw, using less and less stuffing as you move up. Sew the arms shut before attaching to the body.

FEET (make two)
start with white yarn
Rnd 1:  make 6sc into magic ring
Rnd 2:  inc in each st [12]
Rnd 3:  (sc, inc in next st) repeat around [18]
Rnd 4:  BLO sc in all st [18]
change to main color yarn
Rnd 5:  sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 6:  (sc, dec) repeat around [12]
Rnd 7:  (2sc, dec) repeat 3 times [9]
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.  Stuff each foot and sew onto body, making sure they are symmetrical.  See photos for appropriate placement.

TAIL
start with white yarn
Rnd 1: make 4sc into magic ring
Rnd 2:  sc in all 4 st [4]
Rnd 3:  inc in all 4 st [8]
change to main color yarn
Rnd 4-6: sc in all 8 st [8]
Rnd 7:  inc, 3sc, dec, 3sc [8]
Fasten off and leave a tail for attaching to body

ASSEMBLY
The ears are placed at round 14, with about 10 stitches between them.
Fill the body 3/4 of the way with polyester pellets/beads.  Depending on the tightness of your stitches, the beads might fall out of the openings between your stitches. If this is the case, you can use a bit of nylon material (ie pantyhose) to create a bag filled with the polyester beads and put this into the doll’s body.  Stuff the remaining space with fiber fill. Position the head and sew it onto the body.

• Yarn from Troitsk “Little” (20% wool, 80% acrylic, 50 g / 135 m)
• Hook 2.5-3.0 mm
• Plastic eyes and spout on a secure mount
• Needle and scissors
• Filler

Legend:
Dc – double crochet
KA – Amigurumi Ring
vp – air loop
sbn – single crochet
pr – increase
ub – decrease
(…) xn times – repeat specified in brackets n times
(12) – the number of loops at the end of the row

Head
Row 1: 6 sbn in spacecraft (6)
Row 2: pr in each loop (12)
Row 3: (1 sbn, pr) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sbn, pr) x6 (24)
Row 5: (3 sbn, Dc) x6 (30)
Row 6: (4 sbn, Dc) x6 (36)
Row 7: (5 sbn, Dc) x6 (42)
Row 8: (6 sbn, Dc) x6 (48)
Row 9: (7 sbn, Dc) x6 (54)
Row 10: (8 sbn, Dc) x6 (60)
Rows 11-22: 60 SBN (60) – 12 rows
Row 23: (8 sbn, ub) x6 (54 )
Row 24: (7 sbn, ub) x6 (48
Row 25: (6 sbn, ub) x6 (42)
Row 26: (5 sbn, ub) x6 (36)
Row 27: (4 sbn, UB) x6 ( 30)
Row 28: (3 pr, UB) x6 (24)

Muzzle
Row 1: 6 sbn in spacecraft (6)
Row 2: pr in each loop (12)
Row 3: (1 sbn, pr) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sbn, pr) x6 (24)
Row 5: (3 prs, pr) x6 (30)
Rows 6-8: 30 prs – 3 rows
Fill with filler before sewing.

Cheeks (2 parts)
Row 1: 6 sc in spacecraft (6)
Row 2: pr in each loop (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, pr) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, pr) x6 (24 )

Body
Row 1: 6 sbn in spacecraft (6)
Row 2: pr in each loop (12)
Row 3: (1 sbn, pr) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sbn, pr) x6 (24)
Row 5: (3 sbn, Dc) x6 (30)
Row 6: (4 sbn, Dc) x6 (36)
Row 7: (5 sbn, Dc) x6 (42)
Row 8: (6 sbn, Dc) x6 (48)
Row 9-18: 48 sbn – 10 rows
Row 19: (6 sbn, ub) x6 (42)
Row 20: 42 sbn
Row 21: (5 sbn, ub) x6 (36)
Row 22: 36 sbn (36)
Row 23: (4 sbn, ub) x6 (30)
Row 24: 30 sbn (30)
Row 25: (3 sbn, ub) x6 (24)
Row 36: 24 sbn (24)

Forelegs (2 parts)
Row 1: 6 sc in spacecraft (6)
Row 2: pr in each loop (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, pr) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, pr) x6 ( 24)
Row 5-8: 24 sbn – 4 rows
Row 9: 12 sbn, 6 UB (18)
Row 10: 18 sbn
Row 11: 14 sbn, 2 UB (16)
Rows 12-22: 16 sbn (at 13- Om row – color change) – 11 rows
Row 23: (6 sbn, ub) x2 (14)
Row 24: 14 sbn Fill
with filler on ⅔.

Hind legs (2 parts)
Row 1: 6 sc in spacecraft (6)
Row 2: pr in each loop (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, pr) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, pr) x6 ( 24)
Row 5: (3 prs, pr) x6 (30)
Row 6: (4 prs, pr) x6 (36)
Rows 7-8: 2 rows unchanged (36) (in the 7th row – color change)
Row 9: (4 sbn, ub) x6 (30)
Row 10: 30 sbn
Row 11: (2 sbn, ub) x6, 6 SBN (24)
Row 12: 24 sbn
Row 13: (1 sbn, ub) x6, 6 sbn (18)
Row 14-23: 10 rows (18)
Row 24: (4 sbn, ub) x3 (15)
Row 25: 15 sbn Fill
with filler on ⅔.

Ears (2 parts)
We knit one ear with white yarn, the second with brown. 
Row 1: 6 sbn in the spacecraft (6)
Row 2: (1 sbn, pr) x3 (9)
Row 3: 9 sbn
Row 4: (2 sbn, pr) x3 (12)
Row 5: 12 sb
Row 6: ( 3 sbn, pr) x3 (15)
Row 7: 15 sbn
Row 8: (4 sbn, pr) x3 (18)
Row 9: 18 sbn
Row 10: (5 sbn, pr) x3 (21)
Row 11: 21 sbn
Row 12: (6 sbn, Dc) x3 (24)
Row 13: (7 sbn, Dc) x3 (27)
Row 14: (8 sbn, Dc) x3 (30)
Row 15: 30 sbn
Row 16: (8 sbn , ass) x3 (27)
Row 17: 27 sb

Tail
Row 1: 5 sbn in spacecraft (6)
Row 2: 5 pr (10)
Row 3: 10 sbn
Row 4: (4 sbn, pr) x2 (12)
Row 5: 12 sbn
Row 6: (5 sbn, pr ) x2 (14)
Row 7-13: 14 sbn – 7 rows

Materials:
-1 skein of Red Heart Comfort yarn or 2 skeins of Red Heart Super Saver yarn.
For a white puppy, I used 1 whole skein of Super Saver yarn (364 yards)
on the head, body, arms, face, and eyelids. And a little from the second skein to his feet.
A little contrasting yarn for the ears, tail, spots on the legs. Some yarn
for the nose.
Important: If you take cotton yarn, it will be difficult to knit. I AM
I recommend acrylic. With decreases, it will be necessary to tighten the thread more. FROM
acrylic, it will be easier to do.
-Hook 4.25mm
-needle
-scissors
-Eyes: can make from buttons, felt, draw, embroider or take
safe eyes. I used 20 mm safety eyes. You can
make the eyes bigger.
filler

EYES: Position as you wish. I attached a white puppy
between rows 15 and 16, for gray – between 16 and 17. For both, the distance between
eyes of 9 loops. (counted by “holes”).
We start with the crown of the head, move down:
The action in parentheses is repeated until the end of the row.
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) 6inc (12)
3) (sc, inc) (18)
4) (2sc, inc) (24)
5) (3sc, inc) (30)
6) (4sc, inc) (36)
7) (5sc, inc) (42)
8) (6sc, inc) (48)
9) (7sc, inc) (54)
10-15) 54sc
16) (8sc, inc) (60)
17) 60sc
18) (9sc, inc) (66)
19-25) 66sc
* insert safe eyes
26) (9sc, dec) (60)
27) 60sc
28) (8sc, dec) (54)
29) (7sc, dec) (48)
30) (6sc, dec) 42)
31) (5sc, dec) (36)
32) (4sc, dec) (30)
33) (3sc, dec) (24)
34) (2sc, dec) (18)
35) (2sc, inc) (24)
* To fill. Stuff as you knit.
36) (3sc, inc) (30)
37) (4sc, inc) (36)
38) (5sc, inc) (42)
39-43) 42sc
44) (6sc, inc) (48)
45) (7sc, inc) (54)
46-48) 54sc
49) (8sc, inc) (60)
50) (9sc, inc) (66)
51) (10sc, inc) (72)
52) 72sc
53) (11sc, inc) (78)
54) (12sc, inc) (84)
55-59) 84sc
60) (12sc, dec) (78)
61) (11sc, dec) (72)
62) (10sc, dec) (66)
63) (9sc, dec) (60)
64) (8sc, dec) (54)
65) (7sc, dec) (48)
66) (6sc, dec) (42)
67) (5sc, dec) (36)
* Fill
68) (4sc, dec) (30)
69) (3sc, dec) (24)
* Donate
70) (2sc, dec) (18)
* Add money.
71) (sc, dec) (12)
72) (4sc, dec) (10)

Finish, add, tighten the hole, hide the thread.
In the picture below, the arrows indicate the places where you need to fill more
carefully.

Muzzle:
The action in parentheses is repeated until the end of the row.
1) 6sc into magic ring (6) Do not tighten the ring very tight.
2) 6inc (12)
3) (sc, inc) (18)
4) (2sc, inc) (24)
5) (3sc, inc) (30)
6) (4sc, inc) (36)
7) (5sc, inc) (42)
8) 7sc, 3sc in the 1st loop, 2sc, 3sc in the 1st loop, 2sc, 3sc in the 1st loop,
14sc, 3sc in the 1st loop, 2sc, 3sc in the 1st loop, 2sc, 3sc in the 1st loop, 7sc (54)
9-12) 54sc
13) (7sc, dec) (48)
14) (6sc, dec) (42)
15) (5sc, dec) (36)
16) 36sc
sl-st, finish, leave a long thread.
Embroider the nose. Enter the black thread into magic ring (from the inside of the muzzle),
print between 4 and 5 rows. Repeat until we form a nose in the form
the triangle. Make a stitch down (mouth).
Fill the face, sew to the head.
Ears: If you want to make your ears shorter, skip the required amount.
rows between 24-31 rows

The action in parentheses is repeated until the end of the row.
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) 6inc (12)
3) (sc, inc) (18)
4) (2sc, inc) (24)
5) (3sc, inc) (30)
6) 30sc
7) (9sc, inc) (33)
8) 33sc
9) (10sc, inc) (36)
10) 36sc
11) (10sc, dec) (33)
12-13) 33sc
14) (9sc, dec) (30)
15-16) 30sc
17) (8sc, dec) (27)
18-19) 27sc
20) (7sc, dec) (24)
21-22) 24sc
23) (6sc, dec) (21)
24-31) 21sc
32) fold in half, knit sc in two halves.
Finish, leave a long thread. Sew to the head (10 row).

hands:
The action in parentheses is repeated until the end of the row.
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) 6inc (12)
3) (sc, inc) (18)
4) (2sc, inc) (24)
5) (3sc, inc) (30)
6) (4sc, inc) (36)
7-10) 36sc
11) (4sc, dec) (30)
12) (3sc, dec) (24)
13) 24sc
14) (4sc, dec) (20)
15-36) 20sc

* Start stuffing after the 5th row. Stuff as you knit. Last 6
Do not fill the rows.
37) Fold in half, knit sc in two halves. Finish leave
long thread.
Sew to the 3rd row from the neck

Legs:
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) 6inc (12)
3) (sc, inc) (18)
4) (2sc, inc) (24)
5) (3sc, inc) (30)
6) (4sc, inc) (36)
7) (5sc, inc) (42)
8) (6sc, inc) (48)
9-12) 48sc
13) (6sc, dec) (42)
14) (5sc, dec) (36)
15) (4sc, dec) (30)
16) (8sc, dec) (27)
17-36) 27sc

* Start stuffing after the 5th row. Stuff as you knit, last 3-4
Do not stuff a number.

37) Depending on where the last loop of the last row is located,
we tie sc to the side of the leg. Fold in half, knit sc over
two halves.

38) ch, turn, skip the loop, knit sc in each loop.
Finish, leave a long thread.

We do the fingers. Cut 2 threads of the color of the legs. Insert the 1st thread into the needle.
Enter into magic ring (1st row), display between 16 and 17 next. Count to the side 4
loops (should be in the front center), insert the needle, output into the magic ring. Pull for
2 ends of the thread until the foot is flat. Knotted, Short End
hide the threads.

We make fingers with the long end of the thread. We drag in 4 places (see photo). IN
each place we pass the thread 2 times. After each tightening, fasten the thread
for the 1st row. The needle is inserted between 12 and 13 rows. Between needle insertion sites
– 7 loops. More details on the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdeNhiTHsI&feature=youtu.be
Sew on legs. Sew so that the puppy can sit.

Small spots on the legs: 3 parts for each leg
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) (sc, inc) to the end (9)
sl-st, finish, leave a long thread.
Sew on toes.

Large spotted legs: 1 for each leg
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) 6inc (12)
3) (sc, inc) to the end (18)
4) 2sc, 2inc, 10sc, 2inc, 2sc (22)
sl-st, finish, leave a long thread.

Sew on the heel.,
A spot on the eyes: (you can without it)
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) 3sc in the 1st loop, 2sc, 3sc in the 1st loop, 2sc (10)
3) (sc, inc) to the end (15)
4) (4sc, inc) to the end (18)
5) (2sc, inc) to the end (24)
sl-st, finish, leave a long thread. Sew on one eye.
Eyelids: if you make a speck on the eye, then make one eyelid color
speck, another color of the body. If there is no speck, then two centuries the color of the body.
1) 8ch * leave the long thread first.
2) from the 2nd loop from the hook, sc into each loop (7) turn, without ch
3) skip the first loop, hdc, 2 inc dc, 2hdc, sl-st
finish, leave a long thread. Sew over the eyes.

Tail:
1) 6sc into magic ring (6)
2) (sc, inc) to the end (9)
3-4) 9sc
5) (2sc, inc) to the end (12)
6-22) 12sc * fill, last 2-3 rows do not pile.
23) fold, knit sc in two halves.
finish, leave a long thread.
Sew to the body

Abbreviations
st – stitch
sl st- slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
Inc – increase
dec – decrease

Head
For the head use skin color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Stuff while advancing.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc, sc) x6 (24)
Round 5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
Round 6. (sc 2, inc, sc 2) x6 (36)
Round 7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)
Rounds 8-13. Sc around (42)
Round 14. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36). Inserts eyes between rounds 11-12, 9 stitches apart.
Round 15. (sc 2, dec, sc 2) x6 (30)
Round 16. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Round 17. (sc, dec, sc) x6 (18)
Round 18. (sc, dec) x6 (12)
Round 19. 6 dec (6). Fasten off.

Muzzle
For the muzzle use light cream color yarn and 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
With black color yarn sew the nose and the mouth in place for the puppy.

Legs(Make 2)
For the legs use skin color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Stuff while advancing.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Rounds 4-5. Sc around (18)
Round 6. Sc 3, 6 dec, sc 3 (12)
Round 7. Sc 3, 3 dec, sc 3 (9)
Rounds 8-13. Sc around (9)
Round 14. 4 dec, sc (5). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Body
For the body use skin and light orange color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Start with
skin color yarn.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc, sc) x6 (24)
Round 5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
Round 6. (sc 4 , inc, sc 5) x3 (33)
Round 7. sc around (33). Change to light orange color yarn.
Rounds 8-10. Sc around (33)
Round 11. (sc 4, dec, sc 5) x3 (30)
Round 12. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Round 13. (sc 3, dec, sc 3) x3 (21)
Round 14. (Sc 5, dec) x3 (18)
Round 15. (sc 2, dec, sc 2) x3 (15)
Round 16. (sc 3, dec) x3 (12). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms(Make 2)
For the arms use skin and light orange color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Start with
skin color yarn. Do not stuff.
Round 1. 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Round 2. Sc around (7). Change to light orange color yarn.
Rounds 3-9. sc around (7). Fold the arms in two and sc the two sides together with 3 sc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Ears(Make 2)
For the ears use light cream color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Round 1. Ch 4, starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 2, sc 3 in the last chain,
continue on the other side of the chain, sc, inc in the last chain (8)
Round 2. Inc, sc, 3 inc, sc, 2 inc (14)
Round 3. Sc, inc, sc, (sc, inc) x3, sc, (sc, inc) x2 (20)
Rounds 4-8. Sc around (20)
Round 9. sc, dec, sc, (sc, dec) x3, sc, (sc, dec) x2 (14). Fold the ears in two and sc the two
side together with 7 sc. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly
Sew the muzzle in the middle of the face, just below the eyes
Embroider eyebrows with black embroidery thread
Sew the ears to the head
Sew the body to the head
Sew the arms in place on the sides of the body
Sew the legs in place on the sides of the body bewteen rounds 6-7.

Materials
Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
Stitch Marker(s)
Scissors
Stuffing
Tapestry Needle
Pins
Safety Eyes, 15 mm (I used brown)
Safety Nose, 20 mm (I purchased mine locally at Hobby Lobby but they look like these ones for reference)
Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g):
– Regular Dog: Color (A) Soft White OR Aran OR Color of choice, used approx. 239 yds/219 m
– Fluffy Dog: Color (A) Soft White OR Aran, yards, used approx. 499 yds/456 m, Color (B) Black OR Cafe Latte, used approx. 230 yds/186 m
– Collar: Color (C) Ranch Red OR Royal OR Dark Orchid OR Color of choice, used approx. 10 yds/9 m, Color (D) Black, used approx. 3 yds/3 m

Abbreviations/Stitches Used
ch – Chain
Rnd(s) – Round(s)
Rows – Rows
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (I use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd)
sl st – Slip stitch
st(s) – Stitch(s)
[ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
magic circle/adjustable ring

Amigurumi dog free pattern

Body
Using Color A, Make 1
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (48sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (54sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in the next 19sts, 2sc in the next st, [sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next] 5times, sc in the next 19sts (60sts)
Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around (60sts for 2Rnds)
Rnd 13: Sc in the next 23sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 19sts (57sts)
Rnds 14-17: Sc in each st around (57sts for 4Rnds)
Rnd 18: Sc in the next 22sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2times, sc in the next 19sts (54sts)
Rnds 19-22: Sc in each st around (54sts for 4Rnds)
Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times (48sts)
Rnds 24-26: Sc in each st around (48sts for 3Rnds)
Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
Rnds 28-29: Sc in each st around (42sts for 2Rnds)
Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)
Rnds 31-32: Sc in each st around (36sts for 2Rnds)
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Shape and firmly stuff your piece.

Front Legs
Using Color A, Make 2
>Design Note: You will be making two front legs. For the first leg, you will fasten off when noted to do so. With the second leg, you will NOT fasten off.
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (30sts for 3Rnds)
Rnd 9: [Sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 20sts (25sts)
Rnd 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts (23sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 19sts (21sts)
Rnd 12: Sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts (20sts)

Begin to firmly stuff and shape your piece and continue to do so as you progress.
Rnds 13-21: Sc in each st around (20sts for 9Rnds)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail if making Leg 1 and set it aside. If making Leg 2 continue as directed below.
Rnd 22: Sc in the next 6sts, leave the remaining stitches unworked (6sts)

>Design Note: These 6 stitchesshould make it so your hook is now at the front inner side of the leg so that when you place the other leg next to it you will be able to join them together nicely. You should be able to join to the 2nd to last st on Leg 1 (stitch number 19) and have both feet facing forward. If this is not the case then it’s likely that our tensions are different. Not a big deal, simply add or remove stitches until you are lined up as described.
Rnd 23: Join Leg 2 to Leg 1 with a sc into st 19 of Leg 1 (Two stitches back from where you originally fastened off). Mark this stitch! This is the new starting point for the round. You can remove any other stitch markers that you may have in your work, sc in the remaining 19sts on Leg 1. You’re now going to join back onto Leg 2 with a sc in the st right next to where you attached to Leg 1 and then in each of the remaining 19sts (40sts total)

>Design Note: There will likely be a small hole in between the two pieces where they were joined. You’ll take care of this in a moment.
Rnds 24-25: Sc in each st around (40sts for 2Rnds)

>Design Note: If on Rnd 24 you happen to be coming up one st short, watch out for st number 21 at the center back. With the way the piece forms, it likes to hide.
Now is a good time to use the tail you left when you fastened off Leg 1 and use it to sew up the little hole between the legs.

Attaching the Legs and Body Together
Okay, now you’re going to attach the legs to the body. You’re going to skip 10sts on the body and 10sts on the legs. To do this you’re going to need to figure out a few placement points. Get two stitch markers ready and I’ll walk you through it.

Determining Where to Place Your Stitch Markers

On the body, we want to skip the front 10 sts. You’re going to use the tail on your body to help determine which 10 sts. With the tail being the center front st, count out in both directions from the tail for a total of 10sts. Place one stitch marker in the first st you will skip and another in the tenth st you will skip.

Okay, now you can set the body aside for a minute while you work on the legs. For this, you’re going to begin Rnd 26 to help identify the 10sts that you’re going to skip.

• Rnd 26: Sc in the next 15 sts, stop and count sts 16-25, put a stitch marker in the 16th and the 25th st (your 10 skipped sts), now pick up your body and line up your skipped sts. Sc into the st directly left of your stitch marker on the body and then in each st around the body until you get to your second stitch marker (a total of 26sts between the stitch markers on the body and 41sts total for the row thus far).

Now you’re going to join the body back onto the other side of the legs.

• Rnd 26 continued: Sc into the st directly left of the stitch marker on the leg, and sc each of the remaining 14sts. (56sts total)

>Design Note: You can now remove all the stitch markers other than the one that marks your first stitch of the round.

• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 8 times (48sts)

>Design Note: The sts where you joined to the body/leg may look smaller/different than those around them. If your stitch count is off you may be accidentally passing over them.

• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around (48sts)
• Okay, now you’re going to take a minute to stitch the body and legs together at the point where you skipped the 10 stitches. I used the tail left on the body. On the inside of your dog (as opposed to the right side) work through the top sts on both the body and the legs and whip stitch them together. Because the tail is in the middle you will need to work one direction, weave back to the center and then stitch up the other side, or get a new length of yarn and stitch it up.
• Rnds 29-30: Sc in each st around (48sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 22sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts (44sts)
• Rnd 32: Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 21sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts (42sts)
• Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 14 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (37sts)
• Rnd 34: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 17sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts (35sts)

Continue to firmly stuff and shape the body cavity as you go.

• Rnd 35: Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 18sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts (33sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 6sts (30sts)
• Rnd 37: Sc in each st around (30sts)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the head to the body.

Head
Using Color A, Make 1
The head is worked top-down.

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 8 [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnds 10-12: Sc in each st around (54sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (60sts)
• Rnds 14-20: Sc in each st around (60sts for 7Rnds)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 6 times (54sts)
• Rnds 22-24: Sc in each st around (54sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 6 times (48sts)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 6 times (42sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 6 times (36sts)

>Design Note: Now would be a great time to insert your eyes. I place mine between Rnds 14 and 15 and about 8sts apart. Note that getting the 15 mm posts through the tightly crocheted fabric was a bit of a wrestling match. Be determined to win! It helped me to take my chopstick and insert it into the space where I wanted the eye to go so that is expanded some, but even then, there was a bit of a struggle to get the post through. Using smaller eyes is an option, but my preference was the look of the 15 mm sized eye.

Now that your eyes are inserted and in place, firmly shape and stuff your head and continue to do so as you go right up to the very end.

• Rnd 28: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 29: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 31: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leave a tail for stitching up the hole.

> Design Tip: I think the hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle, working in the front loops only and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Tie off. Bury your yarn end and cut off any excess.

Muzzle
Using Color A, Make 1

• Ch 6
• Rnd 1: Working around both sides of the chain, starting by working in the back bars of the chain, 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 3sts, 3sc in the last st (you’ve now rounded the corner and completed the first st on the other side of the chain), sc in the next 4sts (12sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st (16sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st (20sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st] 10 times (30sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next 8sts, 3sc in the next st, sc in the next st (40sts)
• Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (40sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 5times (35sts)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leaving a tail for stitching the muzzle to the face.

Ears
Using Color A, Make 2

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around (24sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnds 8-11: Sc in each st around (30sts for 4Rnds)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnds 13-20: Sc in each st around (24sts for 8Rnds)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 2 times (22sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in each st around (22sts)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 2 times (20sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in each st around (20sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 2 times (18sts)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 2 times (16sts)
• Hold the top edges together and sc them together (8sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching to the head.

Hind Legs
Right Leg
Using Color A, Make 1

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (30sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 9: [Sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 20sts (25sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts (23sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 19sts (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts (20sts)

Begin to firmly stuff and shape your leg. Continue to do so as you go.

• Rnds 13-18: Sc in each st around (20sts for 6Rnds)

>Design Note: The rest of the leg will be worked in rows. Turn and ch1 at the end of each row

• Row 19: Sc in the next 12 sts, leave the remaining sts unworked

>Design Note: The 12sts that you just worked should be from about the front center to the back center of the piece.

• Row 20: Sc in the next 11sts, leave the last st unworked (11sts)
• Rows 21-22: Sc in each st across (11sts for 2 Rows)
• Row 23: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
• Row 24: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
• Row 25: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
• Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
• Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the leg to the body.

Left Leg
Using Color A, Make 1

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (30sts for 3Rnds)
• Rnd 9: [Sc2tog] 5 times, sc in the next 20sts (25sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the next 20sts (23sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 19sts (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc2tog, sc in the next 19sts (20sts)

Begin to firmly stuff and shape your leg. Continue to do so as you go.

• Rnds 13-19: Sc in each st around (20sts for 7Rnds)

>Design Note: You should now be positioned just right to center front.

>Design Note: The rest of the leg will be worked in rows. Turn and ch1 at the end of each row

• Row 20: Turn, ch1, sc in the next 11sts, leave the rest unworked (11sts)
• Rows 21-22: Sc in the next 11sts (11sts for 2 Rows)
• Row 23: Sc2tog, sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog (9sts)
• Row 24: Sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog (7sts)
• Row 25: Sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog (5sts)
• Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog (3sts)
• Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the leg to the body.

Tail
Using Color A, Make 1

• Rnd 1: 5sc in adjustable (magic) circle (5sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 5sc in 2nd chain from hook (5sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st (6sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st (7sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st (8sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st (9sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (9sts)

Begin to stuff and shape your tail. Continue to do so as you go.

• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st (10sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in each st around (10sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st (11sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in each st around (11sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st (12sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st (13sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around (13sts)
• Rnd 15: Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in the next st (14sts)
• Rnd 16: Sc in each st around (14sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in the next st (15sts)
• Sl st to the first st, fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching to the body.

Assembly
>Design Tip: One of the biggest tricks to assembling amigurumi, in my opinion, is pinning your pieces and then taking the time needed to ensure that you are stitching them on in a way that you are happy with them. I’ll give you some general ideas of where I placed my pieces, but ultimately, do what looks best to you.

>Design Tip: Remember when attaching your pieces to add more stuffing each time right before closing to eliminate having a gap with no stuffing between the joined pieces.

Muzzle
Before pinning and attaching the muzzle you’ll want to make sure to add your safety nose. I placed my nose between Rnd 3 and 4 in a central position. The actual muzzle I placed about one row below the eyes.

Add stuffing to your muzzle. I stuffed mine a little and then pinned it to the face for placement. After stitching for a while I added more stuffing until I was overall pleased with the appearance and firmness.

Ears
I pinned my ears on the top of the head approximately five rounds out in either direction from the very center. The ears are NOT stuffed.

Tail
I placed the bottom part of the tail at Rnd 10 of the body.

Hind Legs
The hind legs were probably the trickiest part for me to get placed evenly. What I found that helped me the most was to place my dog on a solid surface, like a tabletop, and look at it directly from the front. This way I could see how both legs were positioned in comparison to each other.

With the hind legs, you will want to stitch all the way around the part that was worked in rows and the top part of the last round where it was left unworked. Right before closing up the leg, add stuffing to the area that was worked in rows.

Making A Fluffy Dog

>Design Tip: It will likely be helpful to read through this entire section before beginning so you have a better idea of the entire process and then move forward as you think best.

I’ll tell you now, turning your dog into a fluffy dog is a labor of love. It’s going to take some time, but in my opinion, it’s worth it!

If you haven’t already done so, start by completing and assembling the dog pattern above. The next step involves cutting a whole lot of lengths of yarn. My lengths of yarn are approximately 5 inches (13 cm) long. The easiest way to do this is to cut a piece of cardboard (a cereal box will do) to 2.5 inches (6 cm) tall by 5 inches (13 cm) wide.

The width of the cardboard can actually be as long or as short as you wish. You’ll be rapping your yarn around the height of the cardboard and then cutting it off the cardboard in one place, leaving pieces that are about 5 inches (13 cm) in length.

Personally, I placed my yarn tail at the bottom of the cardboard rectangle, wrapped it around about 50 times and then slipped my scissors between the cardboard and the yarn at the very bottom and cut it there. This way no yarn was wasted.

How many lengths of yarn will you need? Well, this will vary some. I advise you to think about the pattern that you want on your dog. Perhaps you have a dog and you’d like to mimic their pattern. You could also look online at dogs, or just make up your own.

Call me crazy, but I went ahead and counted the strands as I went to give you an idea of how many I used in my design. Exactly how many you need may vary widely, so it may be a good idea to cut quite a few to get you started and then cut more as you go along. For the brown and tan dog, I cut 1,734 strands of Color A and 1,418 strands of Color B. Like I said, a labor of love because now that they’re cut it’s time to loop them onto the dog, but it’s gonna be worth it!

I’m going to give you a general idea of my process for looping, but if you find a better method, by all means, use it.

I personally started my loops around the eyes and the nose, using Color B. This is a tricky area to work around because the eyes and nose are attached there. Work as closely as you can, even sticking your hook under the edges if you can, all the way around, trying to completely fill in the space. Personally, my goal was to not have any Color A showing through.

Once this is done you can really start working wherever you want. Personally, I just continued working on the face and head in a combination of Color A and Color B (as I’d decided based on my desired pattern) and then moved out to the other parts of the body. The whole bottom portion of my dogs are worked in Color A so I opted to fill in most of this color first and then went in with Color B.

Let’s Talk About How to Make Loops

• The loops are placed around one complete stitch in a row. Determine where the loop will be placed, insert the hook from the bottom of the stitch, around the back, and back up at the top of the stitch. Fold the length of yarn in half and hook it onto the hook.
• Pull the length of yarn through the stitch about halfway.
• Remove the hook and take the loop, placing it up over both of the yarn tails.
• Pull on the yarn tails at the same time to tighten and secure the loop.

Let’s Talk About Yarn Loop Placement

Other than right around the eyes and the nose where I placed Color B as solidly as possible, I worked the rest of the loops around every other row of stitches for the most part. I felt this provided adequate coverage and fluffiness. If a spot looked a little bare than I added a few loops along parts of the skipped row, but not complete rows. That said if you want an even fluffier dog simply add more loops everywhere.

There were a few spots that I opted to leave unworked completely. The first of these was the 5Rnds on the bottom of each of the feet. The second is underneath each of the ears. For the ear, I worked 2sts on either edge of the underside of the ear and then a couple of complete rows at the very bottom, but I then left the rest of the middle underside of the ear alone.

Let’s Talk About Blending

To me, stopping Color A and just beginning with Color B looked too abrupt in some ways. To eliminate this and to create a “blend” with the yarns, about 2 rows before I switched to Color B I worked those two (or so) rows differently. I kept them primarily Color A, but every third stitch or so I made it Color B. Then on the next row I did the same thing but made sure not to line up any of the Color B stitches. After this, I switched fully to Color B to finish out my desired pattern. Blending accomplished!

Another thing I did when I wasn’t quite satisfied with how the blending looked was to loop in either Color A or Color B (depending on what was needed to make a better blend) onto some of the stitches in the rows that were skipped.

Trimming
There’s a super cute face hidden under all that fluff! Let’s find it!

This part is both fun and a bit messy. Be prepared to have yarn fluff everywhere! How you decide to sculpt your dog is going to be left up to you for the most part, but I’ll give you a few tips.

1. Get a clear picture in your head (and even better an actual picture) of how you want your dog to look.
2. Start with the face and then the front legs. Once satisfied with these, move on to other parts.
3. Trimming less and in multiple passes is probably always the best idea. The hair obviously won’t grow back so if you take off small bits at a time as opposed to large, deep chunks it’s easier to fix if needed. That said if you totally dislike an area that you cut you can make more loops and switch them out, but this likely won’t be too fun.
4. Use your initial trimming passes to add shape to your dog and then focus on more detailed trimming.
5. Sometimes it’s hard to know when to stop. Take your time. Walk away if you’re feeling frustrated or don’t know exactly what you want to do next.
6. Have fun! All dogs look different. Yours will be unique no matter what!

Collar
Regular Dog’s Collar
Using Color C, Make 1

The size of collar you make will depend on if you made a regular dog or if you made a fluffy dog. It’s easy to adjust the collar to any size you choose.

>Design Note: Leave a long starting tail for stitching.

• Ch 4
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across (3sts)
• Rows 2-50: turn, ch1, sc in each st across (3sts for 49 Rows)

Measure the collar around the dog’s neck. It should go around with a small amount of slack and overlap about 12 rows or so. Add or subtract rows as necessary.

• Row 51: Sc2tog, sc in the last st (2sts)
• Row 52: Sc2tog (1st)
• Fasten off. Weave in this tail.

>Design Option: Add three French knots (or whip stitches) evenly spaced onto the collar piece on the pointy end to imitate holes in the collar. Mine are at about Row 48, 45, and 42.

Loop Strap
Using Color D, Make 1

• Ch2
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (1st)
• Rows 2-11: turn, ch1, sc (1st for 10 Rows)
• Fasten off. Leave a tail for stitching the loop together.
• Weave in the first tail. Form into a loop and stitch closed.
• Weave in the end.
• Slide the black loop onto the collar.
• Stitch collar around your dog’s neck at about Row 43 of the collar. Make sure it isn’t twisted!
• Slip the flap with the French knots through the loop.

Stitching the collar around the dog’s neck.

Fluffy Dog’s Collar
Using Color C, Make 1
>Design Note: Leave a long starting tail for stitching.

• Ch 4
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across (3sts)
• Rows 2-71: turn, ch1, sc in each st across (3sts for 70 Rows)

Measure the collar around the dog’s neck. It should go around with a small amount of slack and overlap about 12 rows or so. Add or subtract rows as necessary.

• Row 72: Sc2tog, sc in the last st (2sts)
• Row 73: Sc2tog (1st)
• Fasten off. Weave in this tail

>Design Option: Add three French knots (or whip stitches) evenly spaced onto the collar piece on the pointy end to imitate holes in the collar. Mine are at about Row 67, 64, and 61.

Loop Strap
Same pattern as for the Regular Dog’s Collar above.

More Amigurumi Dog İdeas