Abbreviations
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st  – slip stitch
sk – skip
ch – chain stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase: work 2 sc in same st
dec – decrease: work 2 sc together
FLO – front loop only

Notes
• Rounds in the seahorse are worked continuously with no seams.
• Mane is worked in rows and then sewn on to the back of the seahorse.
• First few rounds are worked into front loops only to make it easier on those tight rounds. Make sure to not crochet too tightly. You’ll need to fit in a pipe cleaner!
• Pipe cleaner should have both ends turned in so there’s no sharp edges. Final length of pipe cleaner is about 2”.
• Eyes are placed approximately 1.0-1.25 inches apart.
• Amigurumi can be closed using this technique.

Body
• Worked in continuous rounds.
• Worked with MC.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic circle. (6) Secure magic circle right away.
Round 2-6: Work 1 sc into FLO of each st across.
• After Round 3, insert pipe cleaner into the tail. Continue working Rounds 4-6 around the pipe cleaner.
Round 7: Work 1 inc, then 5 sc, all FLO. (7)
Round 8: Work 1 inc, then 6 sc, all FLO. (8)
Round 9: Work 1 inc, then 7 sc, all FLO. (9)
Round 10: Now working through both loops. Work [1 inc, 1 sc] 2x, 1 inc, 4 sc (12)
Round 11: Work [1 inc, 1 sc] 2x, 1 inc, 7 sc. (15)
Round 12: Work [1 inc, 1 sc] 2x, 1 inc, 10 sc. (18)
Round 13-14: Work 1 sc in each st around. (18)
Round 15: Work [1 sc, dec] 6x around. (12)
• Stuff the seahorse up to the neckline.
Round 16: Work [2 sc, dec] 3x around. (9)
Round 17: Work [1 sc, dec] 3x around. (6)
Round 18: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 19: Work [1 sc, inc] 6x around. (18)
Round 20: Work [5 sc, inc] 3x around. (21)
Round 21-22: Work 1 sc in each st around. (21)
Round 23: Work [5 sc, dec] 3x around. (18)
• Add eyes between Rounds 21 and 22.
• Do not sew a mouth.
Round 24: Work [1 sc, dec] 6x around. (12)
• Stuff the amigurumi.
Round 25: Work 6 dec. (6)
• Fasten off, close, and weave in ends.

Snout
• Worked with MC and D hook.
• Worked in seamed rounds.
Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join to first sc with sl st. (6) Secure magic circle right away.
Round 2: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in BLO of each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (6)
• Fasten off with a length of tail. Tail will be used to sew snout to head.
• Sew snout to head centered between the eyes, between Rounds 19-21.

Mane
• Worked with C1 and D hook.
Row 1: Ch 17.
Row 2: Work 5 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sk 1, sl st in next st. *Sk 1, work 5 hdc in next st, sk 1, sl st in next st.* Repeat from * 2 more times for a total of 4 shells.
• Fasten off with long tail to sew the mane onto the back of the seahorse.
• Mane is situated just along the back of the seahorse’s head.
• Beginning tail should be woven in.

Side Fins
• Worked with C1 and D hook.
Row 1: Ch 5.
Row 2: Work 5 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sk 1, sl st in next st.
• Fasten off with tail to sew the side fins to the side of the seahorse, with round side of shell facing forwards.
• Beginning tail should be woven in.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Seahorse Ideas:

Abbreviations
MR – magic ring
sc – single crochet
BLO – Back loop only
inc– increase
dec– decrease
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
Difficulty level: easy
Let’s start crocheting the amigurumi seahorse pattern.
We will crochet the body and head of the Amigurumi seahorse pattern together. 

Head and Body
Use the blue wire (aquarium)
Rnd 1. 4 sc in the MR
Rnd 2. 1 inc, 1 scx 2 – 6 sc
Rnd 3-13. 6 sc
Rnd 14. 2 sc, 1 inc x 2-8 sc
Rnd 15. 3 sc, 1 inc x 2 – 10 sc
Rnd 16. 1 inc, 4 sc x 2 – 12 sc
Rnd 17. 3 sc. (1 inc, 1 sc) x 3, 3 sc – 15 sc
Rnd 18. 3 sc. (1 inc, 2 sc) x 3,3 sc – 18 sc
Rnd 19. 3 sc, (1 inc, 3 sc x 3), 3 sc – 21 sc
Rnd 20-24. 1 sc about each st – 21 sc
Rnd 19. 1 sc, 1 dec x 8 – 16 sc
Rnd 20-24. 1 sc about each pt – 16 sc, 1 BLO
Rnd 25. 3 sc, 1 dec (x 3) – 18 sc
Rnd 26. 1 sc, 1 dec (x 6) – 12 sc
Rnd 27. 1 sc, 1 dec (x 4) – 8 sc
Rnd 28. 8 sc
Rnd 29. 8 inc – 16 sc
Rnd 30. 1 sc, 1 inc x 8 – 24 sc
Rnd 31. 2 sc, 1 inc x 8 – 32 sc
Rnd 32-39. 32 sc
Add the filling little by little while you crochet.
Rnd 40. 2 sc, 1 dec (x8) – 24 sc
Rnd 41. 1 sc, 1 dec x 8 – 15 sc
Rnd 42. 8 dec – 8 sc
Inverted magic ring closure.

Optional: Make the expression on the face, squinting eyes and border with black embroidery floss, eyelashes and eyebrows. Place the eyes between rows 36 and 37 with 6 visible dots between them.
We crochet the part of the nose of the amigurumi pattern. Crocheted with blue yarn. If you want, you can choose red or black thread. 

Muzzle
Let’s now work only on the front head straps.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in the MR
Rnd 2. 1 sc, 1 inc x 3-9 sc
Rnd 3. 9 sc en FLO (only on the back straps)
Rnd 4-5. 9 sc
Bind off and leave a long thread to sew. Sew between the eighth and the tenth vein of the head, in the middle of the eyes.
We crochet the fins of the amigurumi seahorse. Lilac yarn is preferred. You can change the thread color if you want. 

Head Fin
Make with gray wire (quarry)
Make 21 small drops.
From the third, make: 5 pieces in the same ch, skip 1 stitch, 1 sc. do this sequence to the end. Make ch 1, turn the piece and make a lace stitch (1 sc, 1 ch) until the end of the flap. Bind off and leave a long thread. Sew in the center of the head, from the second Veira above the eyes, up to near the neck.

Side Fins
Do it twice, with the gray thread:
1 MR, and inside it: ch 3, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 3 ch and fasten with sc in the center. Close the morning (the shape is very similar to a heart) and sew the sides of the body.
Optional: Embroider 3 lines with gray thread on the seahorse’s belly, leaving a space of 2 Veas between each of them.
Congratulations
More Amigurumi Seahorse İdeas:

NOTES:
Gauge isn’t terribly important,  as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a tight even stitch so that the stuffing won’t come through.
Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.
I prefer to join my rounds,  but if you’re more comfortable using the ‘continuous rounds’ technique, that should work fine.
In this pattern,  I debated on the ‘tail’.  I looked at dozens of official game images of Horsea online, and there are some with a more pronounced (longer) tail,  and some with very short tails,  and some with a medium tail – depending on which generation of the game or show it came from.  I opted for the medium length tail,  but if you prefer the longer tail  (more ‘curl’)  simply add some rounds of crochet between rows 4 and 16 of the body – or leave a couple of rows out for a shorter tail.   Also,  some of the images had the tail ‘plump’  and others flat,  I opted for flat in this pattern simply to make it easier for beginners to manage the curl,  but if you want to,  add a small amount of stuffing to plump the tail out some.  Don’t overstuff the tail though,  because you need it be able to curl up later.

BODY:
Rnd 1:  5 sc in magic ring  (5)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (15)
Rnd 4-16:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (18)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 22-28:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 29:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 30:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 31:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 32:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven’t already.  While I left the tail portion unstuffed,  if you prefer to have a plumper tail,  stuff the tail section *very* lightly.  Stuff the body firmly to shape. Continue stuffing body as you progress.
Rnd 33:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 34:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 36-37:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 38:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 39:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O.  Leave neck open.  Weave in ends.

HEAD:
Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 8-15:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Begin stuffing at this point,  stuff fairly firmly to shape.  Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 19:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 20:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 21:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finalize the shape and weave end through last round of sc.  Pull to close tightly.  Secure and weave in ends.

BELLY PLATE:
Using cream:
Row 1:  Ch 6.  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining chs.  turn  (5)
Row 2:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each sc to last sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn  (7)
Row 3:  repeat row 2  (9)
Row 4:  repeat row 2  (11)
Row 5-12:  sc in each sc across  (11)
Row 13:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc,  turn  (10)
Row 14:  repeat row 13  (9)
Row 15:  repeat row 13  (8)
Row 16:  repeat row 13  (7)
Row 17:  repeat row 13  (6)
Row 18:  repeat row 13  (5)
Row 19:  sc in each sc across.  Do not turn  (5)

EDGE:  Sc in each row end down the side and across the bottom (foundation chain) and back up the other side,  crochet across the top to where you begain the edge and slip stitch to the first sc of the edging.  
Using a long length of blue yarn and yarn needle,  make the lines across the belly plate  (I used a straight stitch,  but back stitch would work too).  I made the lines between the second and third row,  then every fourth row,  ending where there were two rows left… however,  any way that they are evenly spaced is fine.
F/O and weave ends.

WHISKERS  (make  12)
Row 1:  Ch 11.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook.  Sc in next 2 chs,  hdc in next 2 chs,  dc in remaining chains. 
F/O.    Weave in ends.
Taking 2 of the ‘whiskers’  place them together with ‘right sides’ facing out  and using a length of matching yarn,  whipstitch them together around the edges.   You should have a total of 6 whiskers.

SNOUT:
Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  Working in FRONT LOOPS ONLY,  sc in each sc around.   Ch 1 now working in the same round but in the free BACK LOOP,  sc in each sc around.  [This is to create a ‘lip’ at the end of the snout.] (12 sc in front, and 12 sc in back)
Rnd 4:  Working through both loops of the round that was worked through the back loops sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-6:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (15)
F/O Weave in ends.  Stuff snount firmly to shape.

FIN: (make 2)
Using cream:
Row 1:  Ch  11.  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch.,  hdc in next three chs,  dc in remaining 5 chs.  Ch 1, turn
Row 2:  Dc in first 5 dc,  hdc in next 3 hdc,  sc in last 2 sc.  Turn
Row 3:  sc in first 2 sc,  hdc in next 3 hdc,  dc in remaining 5 dc,  ch 1 turn
Row 4:  repeat row 2
Row 5:  repeat row 3
Row 6:  repeat row 2
Row 7:  repeat row 3
Row 8:  repeat row 2
F/O and weave in ends
Place the two pieces together matching the shape, and with a length of matching yarn,  whipstitch the two pieces together around the edges.

ASSEMBLY
I highly recommend pinning all the pieces in place before sewing.   Head is sewn to the body.  Belly plate is sewn to the body front centered under the snout.  Whiskers are sewn to the face as shown,  they should be pointing *slightly* backwards.  (see pictures for help with placement).   Fin is sewn to the center of the back of the body as shown.
Cut two larger ovals from white felt,  2 smaller ovals in light red and two small ovals from black.   Attach as shown for the eyes.
I cut a circle of black and glued it in the ‘lip’ of the snout,  because it looks nice,  but that’s purely optional.
Curl the tail towards the front and tack it in place with a few stitches.