Materials and tools
– for Sheep-acryl / cotton (200-250m / 100g) – light gray, beige, light pink, solid – 
for hooves, black or dark acrylic / cotton yarn (200-250m / 100g) 
– curl, shaggy yarn for wool lambs of any color (140-200m per 100g) 
– for snood any thin yarn (300-400m per 100g) 
– hook No. 2 (or suitable for your yarn) 
– fine needles 
– black floss for embroidering mouth-nose (or black iris, or a thin woolen thread) 
– black beads for the eyes, white felt
– needle stitching and a long thin needle to stitch the nose 
– filler for toys 

Legend
ce – air loop 
ss – connecting column 
sbn – a column without nakida 
pr – increase (we tie two out of one loop) 
slab – decrease (knit two loops together) 
* 6- number of repetitions 
We knit in a spiral, for both walls, rather tight, so as not to penetrate filler. 
Stuff in the process of knitting.

Limbs-legs / arms (4pcs)
We start with black or dark yarn. 
Legs-hands are not stuffed, at will, you can stuff the hoof. 
1 row: 6 sbn in the ring amigurumi-6sbn 
2 row: (1sbn, pr) * 3 – 9sbn
3 row: 9sbn
Change the color of the yarn to light. 
I do this: (see photo) I leave 2 loops on the hook, tie the thread of the desired color and only then knit the string to the end.
4-18 rows: 9 sbn (15 rows) 
Leave the thread for stitching, pull off and sew a hole, hide the thread inside the limb.

HEAD
Begin light, not fluffy yarn, we fill gradually as knitting. 
1 row-: 6sbn in amigurumi ring 
2 row: pr * 6 – 12 sbn 
3 row: (1 sbn, ave) * 6 – 18 sbn 
4 row: (2sbn, ave) * 6 – 24 sbn 
5 row: 24 sbn 
6 Row: (3sbn, pr) * 6 – 30 sbn 
7 row: 30 sbn 
8 row: (4sbn, pr) * 6 – 36 sbn 
9 row: 36 sbn 
10 row: (5sbn, ave) * 6 – 42 sbn 
11 row : 42 Sbn 
12 row: (6sbn, pr) * 6 – 48 sbn 
13 -16 rows: 48 sbn (4 rows) 
17 row: (6sbn, ub) * 6 – 42sbn 
18 -19 rows: 42sbn (2 rows) 
change thread on the fluffy, knit on the seamy side, against the clock
20 row: 42sbn 
21 row: (5sbn, ub) * 6 – 36 sbn 
22 row: (4sbn, ub) * 6 – 30 satn 
23 row: (3sbn, ub) * 6 – 24 satn 
24 row: (2sbn, ub ) * 6 – 18 sbn 
25 row: (1 sbn, sr) * 6 – 12 sbn 
26 row: slay * 6 – 6 sbn 
close, hide the thread.

Body
The body is knitted from top to bottom with fluffy yarn, which is packed in the process of knitting. 
1 row: 6 inc. in the ring amigurumi 
2 row: pr * 6 – 12 sbn 
3 row: (1sbn, pr) * 6 – 18 sbn 
4 row: (2sbn, pr) * 6 – 24 sbn 
5-8 rows: 24sbn – 4 rows 
9 row: (3sbn, pr) * 6 – 30 sbn 
10 row: (4sbn, pr) * 6 – 36 sbn
11-17 rows: 36sbn -7 rows 
18 row: (4sbn, ub) * 6 – 30 satn 
19 row: (3sbn , kill) * 6 – 24 satn 
20 row: (2sbn, kill) * 6 – 18 satn 
21 row: (1sbn, kill) * 6 – 12sbn 
22 row: kill * 6-6 satn 
Put a weighting agent for balance in the bottom of the body, so that the sheep can sit.
Cut the thread, tighten the hole, fasten the thread and hide inside. 

Ears. 2 parts
1 row: 6 vp in the ring amigurumi 
2 row: (1sbn, pr) * 3 -9 sbn 
3 row: (2sbn, pr) * 3 -12 sbn 
4 row: (3sbn, ave) * 3 -15 sbn 
5-8 rows: 15 sbn 4 rows 
9 row: (3sbn, ub) * 3 -12 sbn 
10 row: (2sbn, ub) * 3 -9 sbn 
11 row: (1sbn, ub) * 3 -6 sbn 
12 row: fold ear and knit together- 3sbn. 
Ears do not need to fill with filler.

Assembling
Try on all the details, I use thin knitting needles (for knitting socks) 
Try on the ears with English pins, cut out circles from thin white fleece under the eyes. 
If you like everything, glue the white fleece with a super glue that leaves no residue on the knitted surface. 
We sew bead eyes.

We make hands and feet on a thread mount, I use a dental floss or another very strong one for this. 
First, we try on, we check that it is even and so that the sheep can sit, this will help her legs. 
We stitch the arms and legs 2 times, as in the photo. 
Now the sheep can move the arms and legs.
And now we will help the Sheep smile. 
Scheduled smile pins and embroider as in the photo.

Now try on and sew the head.
Snood
Knits on five knitting needles. 
Dial 48 loops. 
Row: all facial, divided into 4 needles, put together in a circle, put a marker, knit in a circle like socks. 
2 row: purl 
3-5 rows: facial (3 rows) 
6 row: purl 
7 row: (nakid, 2 together front) alternate until the end of row 
8 row: purl 
9-11 rows: facial 
12 row: purl 
13 row: (nakid, 2 facial together) – alternate until the end of row 
14 row: purl 
15-17 rows: facial (3 rows) 
18 row: purl 
19 row: facial 
20 row: purl 
Close all loops.
Weave the cord, thread through the holes of the 13th row. Dress the Lizard on the Sheep.

Gaiters
Tie in a circle on 4-5 knitting needles. 
Gather 12 loops and knit 15 rows. 
Close the loop.
Lamb Bea is ready! 
Admire and enjoy the work done! 
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Sheep Ideas:

Torso Alpina baby, hook №5 
1 row – 6 loops in a double ring amigurumi, tighten. 
2 row – in each loop we sew 2 sb (a column without a crochet). (= 12n). 
3 row – (1 sb, increase) * 6 times (= 18p) 
4 row – (2 rolls, increase) * 6 times (= 24p) 
5 row – (3 rolls, increase) * 6 times (= 30p) 
6 row – (4 sb, increase) * 6 times (= 36p) 
7 – 11 row – unchanged 
12th row – 12 sbn, 6 dashes, 12 sbn (= 30p) 
13, 14 row – unchanged 
15 row – (3 sbn, diminution) * 6 times (= 24p) 
16, 17 row – unchanged 
18 row – (2 sb, decrease) * 6 times (= 18p) 
19-23 row – unchanged. We fill with filler. 
24 row – (1 sb, decrease) * 6 times (= 12 p) 
25 row – unchanged
26 row – 2 sb, 1 half-pile without crochet, knitting turn, 1 in. ascent, 4 sb, 1 half-pit without crochet. We tighten the thread, cut it off with a margin. 
(This extra row is needed to make it easier to sew the head tilted down.) In principle, one can do without it, but I knit)) 

Tail
Alpina baby, hook number 5
1 row – 6 loops in a double ring amigurumi, tighten. 
2-4 row – no change. We fill with filler. 

Ears (2 pieces) 
1 row – 6 loops in a double ring amigurumi, tighten. 
Cotton Alpina, gray, hook No. 1.5 
2 row – unchanged 
3 row – (2 sb, increase) * 2 times (= 8p) 
4 rows – unchanged 
5 rows – (2 sb, down) * 2 times (= 6 (n)
1 row – 6 loops in a double ring amigurumi, tighten. 
Horns (2 pieces) Cotton Alpina, white, hook No. 1.5 
2 row – (2 sb, increase) * 2 times (= 8p). We cut the thread with a margin. 
3-12 row – no change 
13 row – (3 sb, increase) * 2 times (= 10p) 
14-27 row – unchanged, we cut the thread with a margin. We fill with filler. 

Horns are wrapped and carefully sewed in places of contact. 
Hooves. 
Limbs (4 pieces). 
They are knit from 2 parts. I’ll name them “half-hocks”))) 
Cotton Alpina, black, hook number 1.5 

The first half- dig . 
1 row – 6 loops in a double ring amigurumi, tighten. 
2 row – unchanged, thread tighten, cut off. The detail is twisted.

The second half-hoof. 
1 row – 6 loops in a double ring amigurumi, tighten. 
2 row – no change, turn out, THREAT DO NOT CUT! 
3 row – connect both parts. 
We knit 3 sbn for the second half-fork, then hook it into the 4th loop of the second half-fork, pick up the 1st loop of the 1st half-fork and bind 3 loops 
together (that is, we perform the reduction), then we knit 3 sb 2nd half-digger, pick up the 5th loop of the 1st half-fork and the 6th loop of the 2nd half-fork and bind 3 loops together. (The result is 8 loops) 
The hole between the two parts of the hoof is sewn. 
4 row – no change 
5 – Change the color to white.
6 – 31 row – unchanged. We tighten, cut the thread with a margin. If desired, you can fill, I leave empty to bend, sometimes I add a little granulate to hang well) Sew our ears, horns to the head, pull the muzzle in the eye area, embroider black threads with mulina or Iris nose, mouth and eyebrows. 
Assembling and decoration. 
We sew limbs, tail and head to the trunk. 
We make lashes of lamb from plastic and glue them. Previously, the eye area is toned with acrylic. Horns, if desired, we tonify. 
As a result, a miniature lamb with a height of 22.5 cm is obtained. 
Good luck! 
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Sheep Ideas:

Abbreviations
MR– magic ring
st(s)– stitch(es)
slst– slip stitch
ch– chain
sc– single crochet
hdc– half double crochet
dc– double crochet
tc– treble crochet
inc– 2 single crochet in one stitch
inv-sc2tog– invisible decrease over 2 single crochet

Head + Body
Use the skin colour yarn. Work in a continous spiral. Mark the beginning of the lines with a piece of yarn.
Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Row 2: (inc)*6 (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Row 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
Row 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
Row 10: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5, 4 sc (60)
Row 11: (9 sc, inc)*6 (66)
Row 12-23: 66 sc (66)
Row 24: (9 sc, inv-sc2tog)*6 (60)
Row 25: 4 sc, inv-sc2tog, (8 sc, inv-sc2tog)*5, 4 sc (54)
Row 26: (7 sc, inv-sc2tog)*6 (48)
Row 27: 3 sc, inv-sc2tog, (6 sc, inv-sc2tog)*5, 3 sc (42)
Row 28: (5 sc, inv-sc2tog)*6 (36)
Row 29: 2 sc, inv-sc2tog, (4 sc, inv-sc2tog)*5, 2 sc (30)
Row 30: (3 sc, inv-sc2tog)*6 (24)
Row 31: 1 sc, inv-sc2tog, (2 sc, inv-sc2tog)*5, 1 sc (18)
Change colour-white
Row 32-35: 18 sc (18)
Row 36: inc, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc (20)
Row 37: (inc, 4 sc)*4 (24)
Row 38-39: 24 sc (24)
Row 40: (7 sc, inc)*3 (27)
Row 41: (8 sc, inc)*3 (30)
Row 42: (5 sc, inc)*5 (35)
Row 43: (16 sc, inc)*2, 1 sc (37)
Row 44-46: 37 sc (37)
Row 47: *Back loop only* 37 sc (37)
Row 48: 37 sc (37)
Row 50: (5 sc, inv-sc2tog)*5, 2 sc (32)
Row 51: (inv-sc2tog, 4 sc)*5, 2 sc (27)
Row 52: (3 sc, inv-sc2tog)*5, 2 sc (22)
Row 53-54: 22 sc (22)
Row 55: (2 sc, inv-sc2tog)*5, 2 sc (17)
Row 56: 8 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc (9)
Row 57: 4 inv-sc2tog fasten off

Headover
• Use the white colour yarn
• Work in a continous spiral
• Mark the beginning the rows
• (…) means-work it in one sc
Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Row 2: (inc)*6 (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Row 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
Row 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
Row 10: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5, 4 sc (60)
Row 11: (9 sc, inc)*6 (66)
Row 12-23: 66 sc (66)
Row 24: Skip 1 stitch. Work 8 dc into the 2nd stitch from the hook. Skip 1 stitch. Work 1 slst into the 2nd stitch. Skip 1 stitch. Work 8 dc into the 2nd stitch from the hook. Skip 1 stitch. Work 1 slst into the 2nd stitch. Repeat around.

Skirt
Find row 46 on the body part where you left out the front loop. Hold the body part upside down.
Row 1: (2 sc, inc)*12, 1 sc, 1 slst (49)
Row 2: (back loop only): 1 ch, 49 sc, 1 slst (49)
Row 3: (back loop only: 1 ch, 49 tc, 1 slst (49)
Row 4: (inc)*49 (98)
Row 5-7: 98 sc (98)
Row 8: 98 hdc (98)
Row 9: 2 sc in one stitch, 3 sc in one stitch (repeat till the end)(196)
Row 10: (chenge to pink thread): 196 sc
Find row 3 the skirt and use the front loops. Hold the doll upside down.
Row 1: 49 sc (49)
Row 2: (inc)*49 (98)
Row 3: 98 sc (98)
Row 4: (3 sc)*98 (294)
Row 5-7: 294 sc
Row 8: (chenge to pink thread): (inc)*294
Find row 2 on the skirt and use the front loops. Hold the doll upside down.
Row 1: 49 sc (49)
Row 2: (inc)*49 (98)
Row 3: (2 sc, inc)*32, 2 sc (328)
Row 4: (chenge to pink thread): (inc)*328

Ears (2X)
We are going to make 4 discs (2 skin and 2 white colour)
Skin colour disc:
Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Row 2: (inc)*6 (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Row 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
White colour disc:
Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Row 2: (inc)*6 (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Row 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
Do not cut the yarn. Face the wrong sides of the disks to each other and continue with row 8 (punch through both discs)
Row 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
Fold it in half and make a few needle stitch before attaching

Leg (2X)
• Use the white and skin colour yarn
• Work in a continous spiral
• Mark the beginning of the rows
• For colour change use the jogless stripe technique
Row 1 (white): 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Row 2 (white): (inc)*6 (12)
Row 3-7 (white): 12 sc (12)
Row 8-9 (skin): 12 sc (12)
Row 10-11 (white): 12 sc (12)
Row 12-13 (skin): 12 sc (12)
Row 14-15 (white): 12 sc (12)
Row 16-17 (skin): 12 sc (12)
Row 18-19 (white): 12 sc (12)
Row 20-21 (skin): 12 sc (12)
Row 22-26 (white): 12 sc (12)
Row 27 (white): (inv-sc2tog)*6 (6)

Arm (2X)
•Use the white and skin colour yarn.
• Work in a continous spiral.
• Mark the beginning of the rows.
Row 1 (skin): 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Row 2-5 (skin): 6 sc (6)
Row 6-20 (white): 6 sc (6)

Rose (5 pos)
Row 1: 23 sc then turn
Row 2: 1 dc into the 4 th stitch, 2 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc, 1 dc, chain 2, 1 slst, chain 2, 1 dc, 2 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc, 1 dc, chain 2, 1 slst, chain 2, 1 dc, 2 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, chain 2, 1 slst
Row 3(chenge to pink thread): 2 sc in each stitch

Leaf (43 pos)
Row 1: 11 ch then turn
Row 2: 10 slst
Sophie the Sheep ready now
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Sheep Ideas:

Abbreviations
st – stitch
sl st- slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
Inc – increase
dec – decrease

Head
For the head we will use gray and fluffy white color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Stuff while advancing. Start with gray color yarn.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc, sc) x6 (24)
Round 5. Sc around (24)
Round 6. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
Round 7. Sc around (30)
Round 8. (sc 2, inc, sc 2) x6 (36)
Round 9. Sc around (36)
Round 10. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42). Change to white fluffy yarn.
Rounds 11-14. Sc around (42). Insert eyes between rounds 9-10, 11 stitches apart.
Round 14. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)
Round 15. (sc 2, dec, sc 2) x6 (30)
Round 16. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Round 17. (sc, dec, sc) x6 (18)
Round 18. (sc, dec) x6 (12)
Round 19. 6 dec (6). Fasten off.

Legs (Make 2)
For the legs we’ll use gray color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Stuff while advancing.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Rounds 4-5. Sc around (18)
Round 6. Sc 3, 6 dec, sc 3 (12)
Round 7. Sc 3, 3 dec, sc 3 (9)
Rounds 8-13. Sc around (9)
Round 14. 4 dec, sc (5). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
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Body
For the body we will use white color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc, sc) x6 (24)
Round 5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)
Round 6. (sc4 , inc, sc 5) x3 (33)
Round 7. sc around (33)
Rounds 8-10. Sc around (33)
Round 11. (sc 4, dec, sc 5) x3 (30)
Round 12. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)
Round 13. (sc 3, dec, sc 3) x3 (21)
Round 14. (Sc 5, dec) x3 (18)
Round 15. (sc 2, dec, sc 2) x3 (12)
Round 16. (sc 3, dec) x3 (9). Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms (Make 2)
For the arms we will use gray color yarn and a 3.5mm crochet hook. Start with skin color
yarn.
Round 1. 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rounds 2-9. sc around (7). Fold the arms in two and sc the two sides together with 3 sc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Ears (Make 2)
For the ears we will use gray color yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Round 1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2. 6 inc (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc, sc) x6 (24). Fold in half and sc two sides together in the following 3 st with
sc. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly
Sew the nose in place with pink color yarn
Sew the ears to the head
Sew the body to the head
Sew the arms in
place on the sides of the body
Sew the legs in place on the sides of the body bet
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Sheep Ideas

Abbreviations
Rd = rd
St(s) = stitch(es)
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Inc = single crochet 2 in same st
Dec = invisible decrease: Insert hook in front loops of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops
[…] = series of stitches to be repeated
*… = times the series of stitches is to be repeated
(…) = stitch count once round is complete
Instructions for the amigurumi sheep
Use a 2.5mm / B-1 or C-2 hook unless indicated otherwise.

Crochet the forelegs in beige (make 2)
The legs don’t need to be stuffed.
Rnd 1: Sc 8 in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: In BLO: Sc 8 (8)
Rnd 3: [sc 2, dec]*2 (6)
Rnd 4: Sc 6 (6)
Rnd 5: [sc 2, inc 1]*2 (8)
Rnd 6: [sc 2, dec]*2 (6)
Rnd 7 – 9 (3 rnds): Sc 6 (6)

Hindlegs in beige (make 2)
Rnd 1: Sc 8 in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: In BLO: Sc 8 (8)
Rnd 3: [sc 2, dec]*2 (6)
Rnd 4: Sc 6 (6)
Rnd 5: [sc 2, inc 1]*2 (8)
Rnd 6: [sc 2, dec]*2 (6)
Rnd 7 and 8 (2 rnds): Sc 6 (6)
Rnd 9: [sc 2, inc 1]*2 (8)

Crochet the belly in cream and fluffy yarn combined
Ch 4
Rnd 1: Sc 2 (starting in 2nd ch), sc 4 in last ch, sc 1 in other side of ch, sc 3 in last ch (10)
Rnd 2: Sc 3, inc 2, sc 3, inc 2 (14)
Rnd 3: Sc 8 around hind leg, sc 4, sc 6 around the front leg, sc 3, sc 6 around the front leg, sc 4, sc 8
around the hind leg, sc 3 (42)
Rnd 4: Sk 1, sc 6, sk 1, sc 4, sk 1, sc 4, sk 1, sc 3, sk 1, sc 4, sk 1, sc 4, sk 1, sc 6, sk 1, sc 3 (34)
Rnd 5 to 7: Sc 34
Rnd 8: [sk 1, sc 2]*11, sc 1 (23)
Rnd 9: [sk 1, sc 2]*7, sk 1, sc 1 (15)
Rnd 10: [sk 1, sc 1]*5 (10)
Rnd 11: [sk 1, sc 1]*5 (5)
Fasten off and close round.

Crochet the head
Ch 4 in beige
Rnd 1: Sc 2 (starting in 2nd ch), sc 5 in last ch, sc in other side of next ch, sc 4 in other side of next ch (12)
Rnd 2: Sc 3, inc 3, sc 3, inc 3 (18)
Rnd 3: Sc 18 (18)
Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc 1]*6 (24)
Rnd 5: Sc 24
Rnd 6: [sc 6, dec]*3 (21)
Rnd 7: [sc 5, dec]*3 (18)
Rnd 8: Sc 17, Sc 1 changing to 3.5mm / E-4 hook and cream cotton and fluffy yarn (18)
Rnd 9 and 10 (2 rnds): Sc 18 (18)
Insert safety eyes in between rounds 6 and 7 with about 4 stitches space in between.
Fill the head with fiberfill.
Rnd 11: [sk 1, sc 2]*6 (12)
Rnd 12: [sk 1, sc 1]*6 (6)
Fasten off leaving long yarn ends and close round. Use yarn ends to sew on the head all around. Pin it to the body first to make sure you are happ with the placement. Weave in the yarn ends.

Crochet the ears in beige (make 2)
Rnd 1: Sc 6 in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: [sc 2, inc 1]*2 (8)
Rnd 3: [sc 2, dec]*2 (6)
Rnd 4: [sc 1, dec]*2 (4)
Fasten off leaving a long yarn end for sewing.
Sew the ears on between round 10 and 11 with about 5 stitches space in between.

Crochet the tail in cream and fluffy yarn combined 
Ch 3
Sc in 2nd ch, sl st in next ch
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn end for sewing. Sew the tail on between round 6 and 7 of the body,
centred in the back.
Your little sheep is now complete!
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Sheep Ideas

Cоnνеntiоns
KΑ – amigυrumi rіng
ss – соnnectіng colυmn
sс – singlе crоchеt
рr – іnсrеasе
ub – decrеаsе
(…) xn – repеаt n timеs

Heаd-Torso
We knit wіth mіlky сolоr. We stυff the раrt іn thе coυrsе оf knittіng.
1- 6 sc in KA
2- 6 іnс (12)
3- (1 sс, 1 іnс) x 6 (18)
4- (2 sc, 1 іnc) х 6 (24)
5- (3 sс, 1 іnc) x 6 (30)
6- (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
7- (5 sс, 1 іnс) x 6 (42)
8- (6 sс, 1 inс) x 6 (48)
9- ( 7 sc, 1 іnc) x 6 (54)
10-(8 sc, 1 іnс) x 6 (60)
11-22. 60 sb
23- (8 sb, 1 dеc) х 6 (54)
24- (7 sb, 1 dес) x 6 (48)
25- (6 sb, 1 dеc) х 6 (42)
26- (5 sb, 1 dеc) х 6 (36)
27- (4 sc, 1 dеc) х 6 (30)
28- 30 sc
29.(4 sс, 1 inc) х 6 (36)
30- (5 sc, 1 іnc) х 6 (42)
Сhangе thе thrеad to рink.
31-32. 42 sс
Wе сhange the thrеad to mіlk.
33-34. 42 sс
Chаnge the thread tо ріnk.
35-36. 42 sс
We сhаngе thе thrеad tо milk.
37-38. 42 sс.
Сhange thе threаd to pink.
39-40. 42 sс
Wе change thе threаd to milk.
41-43. 42 prs
44- (5 рrs, 1 dеc) х 6 (36)
45- (4 prs, 1 dес) х 6 (30)
46- (3 рrs, 1 deс) х 6 (24)
47- (2 prs, 1 dеc) х 6 (18)
48- (1 sc, 1 deс) х 6 (12)
49- 6 deс (6)
Ρull thе hοle. Ηide the threаd.

Legs (2 раrts)
Wе knit іn pink. Wе stuff іn thе coυrse оf knitting.
We сοlleсt a сhaіn оf 5 ch. From thе secоnd lоор from the hoοk wе knіt:
1- 1 inc, 2 sb, 2 inс іn 1 looр, 2 sb, 1 іnс (12)
2- 1 іnс, 4 sb, 2 inc, 4 sb, 1 іnc (16)
3- 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 іnc, 3 sс, 1 іnс, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sс, 1 іnc, 3 sc, 1 іnс, 1 sс (22)
4- 2 inc, 4 sc, 1 inс, 4 sb, 2 іnс, 4 sb, 1 іnc, 4 sb (28)
5- 28 sb for thе back wаll of thе lοoр.
6-8. 28 sc
9- We knit 3 sc so thаt the beginnіng оf the nеxt row іs directlу аbovе thе hеel, we сontinυе knittіng: 8 sс, 1 dес, (1 sс, 1 dеc) х 3, 9 sс (24
10- 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sbn (20)
11- 8 sbn, 2 dеc, 8 sbn (18)
Сhangе thе threаd to milk.
12- 18 sbn bеhіnd thе bасk wall оf the loοр
13-25. 18 sc
26- (1 sc, 1 deс) х 6 (12)
27- 12 sс
28- 6 dес (6)
Сυt thе thrеаd. Ρull the hοlе. Fаstеn thе thrеad аnd hidе.

Hаnds (2 parts)
We knіt with milky соlor. We stuff the pаrt іn thе course оf knitting.
1- 6 sс in ka
2- 6 іnc (12)
3-12 sc
4- (3 sс, 1 іnc) х 3 (15)
5-20. 15 sс
21- (3 sс, 1 dеc) x 3 (12)
22- 6 dеc (6)
Сut thе thrеad. Pυll the holе.

Shеер hοrns (2 pаrts)
1- 6 sc in ka
2- 6 inc (12)
3- 12 sc
4- (3 sc, 1 іnc) x 3 (15)
5- 15 sс
6- (4 sс, 1 inс) х 3 (18), ss
Fаstеn the thread, cut аnd hіdе.

Ears (2 pаrts)
Wе knіt with mіlky cоlor.
1- 6 sc іn KΑ
2- 6 inс (12)
3- (1 sc, 1 inс) х 6 (18)
4- (2 sс, 1 іnс) х 6 (24)
5- (3 sс, 1 inc) х 6 (30)
6- 30 sс
7- (4 sс, 1 іnc) х 6 (36)
8- 36 sc
9- (5 sс, 1 inc) х 6 (42)
10-12. 42 sc
13- (5 sc, 1 dеc) x 6 (36)
14-15. 36 sc
16- (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
Сhange the thrеаd to pіnk.
17-18. 30 sbn
We сhange thе thrеаd to mіlk.
19- (3 sс, 1 dес) x 6 (24)
Changе the thread tο рink.
20-21. 24 sс
We сhangе the thread to mіlk.
22- 24 sc
Fold thе ріесе and sеw the еdgеs.

Вunnу Tail
1- 6 sс іn KΑ
2- 6 inс (12)
3- (1 sc, 1 іnc) х 6 (18)
4- 18 sc
5- (4 sс, 1 dеc) x 3 (15), sl-st

Sсarf аnd hat
Νeеdlеs nυmber 4.
Fοr а sсarf – 6 loοps. Тhe раttern is the frоnt surfаcе.
For the сap-54 lоoрs. 6 rows іn 2х2 ribbіng, then stockinettе.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Bunny and Sheep Ideas:

Conventiоns:
KA – amіgυrυmі rіng
νр – аir loop
ss – соnnectіng сolumn
sc – single сrосhеt
ss2n – doublе сroсhеt
рr – increаse
ub – decrеаsе
(…) xn – rеpeаt n times
Desсriрtіon οf crоchеt amigυrυmі lаmb

Нeаd
Beіge yаrn, ch 10
1: start knіttіng in thе 8th lооp, 7 sc, 3 sс in οnе looр, 6 sc, 2 sc in thе lаst loοp (18)
2: іnc, 6 sс, (рr) x 3, 6 sc, (рr) х 2 (24)
3: іnc, 7 sb, (іnc, 1 sb) х 3, 6 sb, (іnc, 1 sb) х 2 (30)
4: іnc, 8 sb, (іnc, 2 sb) х 3, 6 sс, (inc, 2 sс) x 2 (36)
5: inc, 9 sc, (іnс, 3 sc) х 3, 6 sc, (іnс, 3 sc) x 2 (42)
6: inc, 10 sc , (іnс, 4 sc) х 3, 6 sc, (inс, 4 sc) x 2 (48)
7-18: 48 sс (12 rows)
19: dec, 10 sc, (dеc, 4 sc) х 3, 6 sс, (dec, 4 sc) х 2 (42)
20-21: 42 sс (2 rows)
22: dес, 9 sc, (dес, 3 sс) х 3, 6 sс, (dec, 3 sс) х 2 (36)
23-24: 36 sс (2 rows)
25: dеc, 8 prs, (dес, 2 prs) x 3, 6 рrs, (dес, 2 рrs) х 2 (30)
26-27: 30 prs (2 rοws)
28: dec, 7 рrs, (dеc, 1 sc) х 3, 6 sc, (deс, 1 sс) x 2 (24)
29: 24 sс

Eуеs (2 pаrts)
Whіte yаrn сh 3
1: knіt in the first loop, 6 sc
2: (inс) х 6 (12)
3: (inc, 1 sc) x 6 (18)
4: (іnc, 2 sс) x 6 (24)
Аttaсh 2 blаck еуеs as shοwn in the рhotо (fiх at the lеνel οf thе 19th row). Sеw eуеs in a сіrсlе with whіtе thrеаd. Fіll with fillеr. Sew a hole, hіde the thread. Embroider thе nosе with brown thrеad.

Ears (2 раrts)
Beigе yarn, ch 10
1: start knittіng frοm thе 8th loοр, 7 prs, 3 prs іn οne loοp, 6 prs, 2 рrs in the lаst lοoр (18)
2: inс, 6 рrs, (pr) х 3, 6 prs, (pr) х 2 (24)
3-10: 24 sс (8 rows)
11: (2 sc, dес) х 6 (18)
12-15: 18 sc (4 rows)
16: (1 sс, dес) х 6 (12)
17-18: 12 sc (2 rows)
Τiе the secοnd eаr. Fold thе еаr in half аnd sеw thе opеning. Sеw еаrs to hеad.

Bоdy
Beіgе уarn, сh 10
1: stаrt knіttіng in the 8th loop, 7 sc, 3 sс in оne lοοр, 6 sc, 2 sс іn the last loop (18)
2: inc, 6 sс, (pr) х 3, 6 sc, (рr) x 2 (24)
3: inс, 7 sb, (inс, 1 sb) х 3, 6 sb, (inc, 1 sb) x 2 (30)
4: inс, 8 sb, (іnс, 2 sb) х 3, 6 sc, (іnс, 2 sс) x 2 (36)
5: іnc, 9 sc, (inc, 3 sc) х 3, 6 sс, (inс, 3 sс) х 2 (42)
6: іnc, 10 sс , (іnc, 4 sc) x 3, 6 sc, (іnc, 4 sc) х 2 (48)
7-12: 48 sс (6 rows)
13-18: purple yаrn, 48 sс (6 rοws)
19: dеc , 10 sс, (dec, 4 sc) x 3, 6 sc, (deс, 4 sc) х 2 (42)
20-21: 42 sс (2 rоws)
22:dec, 9 sc, (deс, 3 sc) х 3, 6 sс, (deс, 3 sс) х 2 (36)
23-24: 36 sc (2 rows)
25: dec, 8 sс, (dеc, 2 sс ) x 3, 6 sc, (deс, 2 sc) x 2 (30)
26-27: 30 sc (2 rows)
28: deс, 7 sc, (dеc, 1 sс) x 3, 6 sс, (dес, 1 sc) х 2 (24)
29: 12 sl-st, 1 sс, 10 sс, 1 sc
Fіll wіth fіllеr.

Skіrt
Ρυrplе yarn.
1: attасh the thread in thе 13th row, 1 ch, 48 sc, sl-st
2: 3 сh, (3 sl-st2n in one loop) x 48, sl-st (144)
3: 3 сh, 144 sl-st-2n, sl-st

Нandlеs (2 раrts)
Purple yarn, ch 3
1: knit in the first lоoр, 6 sc.
2: (inс) х 6 (12)
3: (іnc, 1 sc) x 6 (18)
8: (inc, 2 sс) x 6 (24)
9: beіgе уаrn, 24 sс (4 rоws)
10: ( dеc, 2 sc) х 6 (18)
11: 18 sс
12: (dес, 1 sc) х 6 (12)
Fіll with fіllеr.
13-30: 12 sc (18 rows)
Fold the раw in hаlf and sеw the hоlе. Tіe thе secοnd рaw. Sew the legs to the bodу.

Legs (2 parts)
Pυrple уаrn, ch 3
1: knіt in thе first loор, 6 sс
2: (іnc) х 6 (12)
3: (іnс, 1 sc) х 6 (18)
8: (іnc, 2 sc) х 6 (24)
9: (3 sc , inc) x 6 (30)
10: beіgе yarn, 30 sс (6 rows)
11: (3 sс, dеc) х 6 (24)
12: 24 sc
13: (2 sс, dес) x 6 (18)
14 : 18 sс
15: (4 sc, deс) х 3 (15)
Fіll with fillеr.
16-37: 15 sc (22 rows)
Fold the leg in hаlf аnd sew the hοle. Κnіt thе sесond lеg. Sew thе lеgs to the body. Sew tulle undеr the skіrt.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Sheep Ideas:

YOU WILL NEED
● 50g balls of Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran
. 1 × A – Slate Grey 606
. 2 × B – Champagne White 603
● 4.50mm (UK7 – US7) crochet hook
● 12mm safety eyes
● Toy stuffing
● Scissors
● Yarn needle
● Any black yarn for making a nose

TENSION (GAUGE)
17 sts and 19 rows to a 10cm (4in) square using 4.50mm (UK7 – US7) crochet hook or size required to obtain tension (gauge).
It is vitally important to check your tension (gauge) before starting as working to the wrong tension (gauge) will mean your toy will not be the size shown and could result in yarn being left over, or more yarn being required. Too loose a tension can also cause stuffing to work it’s way out of the toys, creating an imperfect finished product. Before beginning, crochet a tension (gauge) swatch at least 13 cm, 5 in, square and measure your tension (gauge). If there are
more stitches and rows than stated, try again using a thicker hook. If there are fewer stitches and rows than stated, try
again using a thinner hook.

GOOD TO KNOW
● Paintbox Yarns cannot accept responsibility for the finished item if any yarn other than the recommended yarn is used.
● Yarn quantities are based on average requirements and are therefore approximate.
● Color reproduction is as close as color accuracy on screens.
● Instructions are written using UK terminology with changes for US terminology given in italics in round brackets ( )
afterwards.
● Repeat figures in round brackets ( ) the number of times stated afterwards.
● Instructions are given for the smallest size, with changes for the larger sizes given in square brackets [ ] afterwards.
● Where only one figure is given, this relates to all sizes.
● Where the figure 0 appears, no stitches, times or rows are worked for this size.

ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain;
dec = decrease: work 2dc (sc) together;
inc = increase: work 2dc (sc) in same st;
dc (sc) = double crochet (single crochet);
sl st = slip stitch;
st(s) = stitch(es);
MR = magic ring;
bobble = *yarn over, insert hook into stitch,
yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * four more times in same stitch, (six loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all six loops to close.

PATTERN NOTES
Work in rounds.
Start each round with 1ch and end with 1sl st in first chain.

HEAD
Using 4.50mm (UK7 – US7) crochet hook and yarn A.
Starting each round with 1ch and ending with 1sl st in first
chain work as follows:
round 1 6dc (sc) into MR, sl st to first dc (sc) – 6 sts.
round 2 2dc (sc) in each st around – 12 sts.
round 3 (1dc (sc), inc) around – 18 sts.
round 4 1dc (sc), inc, (2dc (sc), inc) five times, 1dc (sc) – 24 sts.
rounds 5-6 Dc (sc) around.
round 7 (3dc (sc), inc) around – 30 sts.
round 8 2dc (sc), inc, (4dc (sc), inc) five times, 2dc (sc) – 36 sts.
round 9 (5dc (sc), inc) around – 42 sts.
rounds 10-11 Dc (sc) around.
Join yarn B
round 12 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc)) around.
round 13 Dc (sc) around.
round 14 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 15 Dc (sc) around.
round 16 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc)) around.
round 17 (5dc (sc), dec) around – 36 sts.
round 18 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 19 2dc (sc), dec, (4dc (sc), dec) five times, 2dc (sc) – 30 sts.
round 20 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc)) around.
Insert safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9 leaving 12 sts between eyes.
Using black yarn make a T-shape nose using sts of round 2 for upper part and sts of round 1 for centre part of nose.
Add some stuffing.
round 21 (3dc (sc), dec) around – 24 sts.
round 22 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 23 1dc (sc), dec, (2dc (sc), dec) five times, 1dc (sc) – 18 sts.
round 24 (1Bobble, dec) around – 12 sts.
Add more stuffing.
round 25 Dec around – 6 sts.
Break yarn. Sew up hole and fasten off

EARS (MAKE 2)
Ears are made in rows.
Using 4.50mm (UK7 – US7) crochet hook and yarn A.
Row 1 1ch, 5 dc (sc) into MR, turn – 5 sts.
Row 2 1ch, 2dc (sc) in each st, turn – 10 sts.
Row 3 1ch, dc (sc) to end, turn.
Row 4 1ch, (1dc (sc), inc) to end, turn – 15 sts.
Row 5 1ch, dc (sc) to end, turn.
Row 6 1ch, 1dc (sc), inc, (2dc (sc), inc) four times, 1dc (sc), turn – 20 sts.
Break yarn.
Make as second part using Yarn B. Do not break the yarn and proceed with the next row:
Row 7 Using stitches from both Yarn A and Yarn B parts work 20dc (sc) around to join.
Fold in half, make 1dc (sc) into same stitch as last st through both pieces, 4dc (sc), inc into corner.
Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Make another ear the same.
Sew ears on between 3rd and 5th bobble rounds leaving 8 bobbles (on third bobble round) between ears.

BODY
Using 4.50mm (UK7 – US7) crochet hook and yarn B.
Starting each round with 1ch and ending with 1sl st in first chain work as follows:
round 1 6dc (sc) into MR, sl st to first dc (sc) – 6 sts.
round 2 2dc (sc) in each st around – 12 sts.
round 3 (Inc, 1Bobble) around – 18 sts.
round 4 1dc (sc), inc, (2dc (sc), inc) five times, 1dc (sc) – 24 sts.
round 5 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc), 1Bobble, inc) around – 30 sts.
round 6 2dc (sc), inc, (4dc (sc), inc) five times, 2dc (sc) – 36 sts.
round 7 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc), 1Bobble, 1dc (sc), 1Bobble, inc) around – 42 sts.
round 8 Dc (sc) around.
round 9 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 10 Dc (sc) around.
round 11 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc)) around.
round 12 (5dc (sc), dec) around – 36 sts.
round 13 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 14 2dc (sc), dec, (4dc (sc), dec) five times, 2dc (sc) – 30 sts.
round 15 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc)) around.
round 16 (3dc (sc), dec) around -24 sts.
round 17 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
Add some stuffing.
round 18 1dc (sc), dec, (2dc (sc), dec) five times, 1dc (sc) – 18 sts.
round 19 (1Bobble, 1dc (sc)) around.
round 20 Dc (sc) around.
round 21 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 22 Dc (sc) around.
Add more stuffing.
Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

ARMS (MAKE 2)
Using 4.50mm (UK7 – US7) crochet hook and yarn A.
Starting each round with 1ch and ending with 1sl st in first
chain work as follows:
round 1 6dc (sc) into MR, sl st to first dc (sc) – 6 sts.
round 2 2dc (sc) in each st around – 12 sts.
round 3 (1dc (sc), inc) around – 18 sts.
rounds 4-5 Dc (sc) around.
round 6 2dc (sc), dec, (4dc (sc), dec) twice, 2dc (sc) – 15 sts.
round 7 Dc (sc) around.
round 8 (1dc (sc), dec) around – 12 sts.
Add some stuffing
rounds 9-18 Dc (sc) around.
Join yarn B
round 19 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 20 Dc (sc) around.
Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Fold in half and sew up hole using sts from both sides.
Make second arm the same.

LEGS (MAKE 2)
Using 4.50mm (UK7 – US7) crochet hook and yarn A.
Starting each round with 1ch and ending with 1sl st in first chain work as follows:
round 1 6dc (sc) into MR, sl st to first dc (sc) – 6 sts.
round 2 2dc (sc) in each st around – 12 sts.
round 3 (1dc (sc), inc) around – 18 sts.
round 4 1dc (sc), inc, (2dc (sc), inc) five times, 1dc (sc) – 24 sts.
rounds 5-7 Dc (sc) around.
round 8 1dc (sc), dec, (2dc (sc), dec) five times, 1dc (sc) – 18 sts.
round 9 Dc (sc) around.
Add some stuffing
round 10 (1dc (sc), dec) around.
rounds 11-20 Dc (sc) around.
Join yarn B
round 21 (1dc (sc), 1Bobble) around.
round 22 Dc (sc) around.
Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Add more stuffing.
Make second leg the same.

FINISHING
Sew to body to rounds 1-4 of head.
Sew arms to last round of body.
Sew legs between first and second bobble rounds of body.
Congratulations

More Amigurumi Sheep Ideas:

Abbreviations
Ch– Chain
Sc– Single crochet
Inc– Increase
Dec– Decrease
Hdc– Half double crochet
Sl st– Slip stitch
MR– Magic ring
Dc– Double crochet
Tr– Treble crochet
Bobble– Bobble stitch
BLO– Back loop only
FLO– Front loop only
Rnd– Round
Sts– Stitches
The finished crochet sheep size is about 13 cm.

Legs (Make 2)
Yarn B
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 3. (2sc,inc)*3 (12)
Rnd 4. (3sc,inc)*3 (15)
Break the yarn, make the second leg in the same way, but don’t break the yarn this time.Connect 2 legs together: 15 sc (leg 1)+ 15 sc (leg 2)=30. Move to the body part, change to yarn A, Turn (remember to turn here to crochet the bobble stitch in the body part, so that the bobble can pop out clearly.)

Body
Yarn A
Rnd 1. ch 2 (count as 1 hdc), bobble 1, (hdc 1, bobble 1)*14, slst to the 1st ch (30)
Rnd 2. sc 30, slst to the 1st ch (30)
Rnd 3. ch 2, (count as 1 hdc), bobble 1, (hdc 1, bobble 1)*14, slst to the 1st ch (30)
Rnd 4. (3sc,dec)*6, slst to the 1st sc (24)
Rnd 5. ch 2, (count as 1 hdc), bobble 1, (hdc 1, bobble 1)*11, slst to the 1st ch (24)
Rnd 6. (2sc,dec)*6, slst to the 1st sc (18)
Rnd 7. ch 2, (count as 1 hdc), bobble 1, (hdc 1, bobble 1)*8, slst to the 1st ch (18)
Rnd 8. sc 18 (18)
Break the yarn with a long rest. Stuff.

Arms (Make 2)
Yarn B
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)*3, change to yarn A (9)
Rnd 3-7. sc 9 (5 rows) (9)
Rnd 4. dec 1, sc 7 (8)
Rnd 5. dec 1, sc 6 (7)
Rnd 6. dec 1, sc 5 (6)
Break the yarn with a long rest. Stuff slightly. Sew 2 edges together.

Head
Yarn B
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8. (6sc,inc)*6 (48)
Rnd 9. (7sc,inc)*6 (54)
Rnd 10. 54 sc (54)
Rnd 11. (8sc,inc)*6 (60)
Rnd 12-19. 60 sc (6 rows) (60)
Rnd 20. (8sc,dec)*6 (54)
Rnd 21. 54 sc (54)
Rnd 22. (7sc,dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 23. (6sc,dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 24. (5sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 25. (4sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 26. (3sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 27. (2sc,dec)*6 (18)
Break the yarn with a long rest to sew later. Stuff.

Hat
Yarn A
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (bobble 1, hdc 1)*6 (12)
Rnd 3. 12 inc (24)
Rnd 4. (bobble 1, hdc 1)*12 (24)
Rnd 5. (1sc,inc)*12 (36)
Rnd 6. (hdc 1, bobble 1)*18 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8. (bobble 1, hdc 1)*21 (42)
Rnd 9. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 10. (bobble 1, hdc 1)*21 (42)
Rnd 11. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 12. (bobble 1, hdc 1)*21 (42)
Rnd 13. 42 sc (42)
Rnd 14. (bobble 1, hdc 1)*21 (42)
Rnd 15. 42 sc (42)
Break the yarn with a long rest tow sew later.
• Use brown thread to embroider the eyes and mouth.
• You can make a family sheep like the photo below, it is gonna be really cute.

Ears (Make 2)
Yarn B
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. (1sc,inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 3-10. 9 sc (8 rows) (9)
Break the yarn with a long rest to sew later. Do not stuff. Use the tapestry needle to sew 2 edges together and roll it over and sew to the hat (photo below).

Congratulations, you have successfully completed the cute crochet sheep amigurumi pattern!

Gauge
– Exact gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.

Finished Measurements
Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) sheep stands about 6.5 inches tall (17 cm) and at the widest part around mouth and body is about 18 inches (46 cm) in circumference

Design Notes
– This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I choose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing show through. If a different sized hook works better for you, then by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size, or the type of yarn you are using, that this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
– The majority of this pattern is written in rounds. The face will be created in rows.
– It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
– At the end of each round/row I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used
BLO – back loop only
bo -bobble (described below under special stitches)
ch – Chain
FLO – Front Loop Only
Rnd(s) – Round(s)
Row(s) – Row(s)
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
sl st – Slip stitch
st(s) – Stitch(s)
[ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches
Bobble (bo): I used a 4dc bobble in this pattern. Essentially it’s 4 half finished double crochets all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch. And because that is all sorts of confusing, here are some directions! You create the bobble as follows:
With the original single loop on your hook from your previous stitch(es)

1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
3. Yarn over and pull through two of the loops
4. Stop here! (two loops on your hook). If you were doing a full double crochet you would yarn over again and pull it through the final two loops to finish the dc, but with a bobble you stop half way, leaving the extra loop on the hook. One of the five legs completed.

Ok, now repeat steps 1-4, three more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch that you just worked into. Also remember that each time you repeat the sequence that you should have one more loop added to your hook.
Now, yarn over and pull through all five of the loops on your hook. This closes your bobble stitch. Congratulations, you just made a bobble!
>Design Note: When making bobbles some patterns will have you make a chain after you have made the bobble to secure them even more. I DO NOT have you make this chain in the pattern, simply make your sc in the next stitch followed by a bobble and so on as the pattern directs.

Body
In Color (B)
We will be working from the bottom base of the sheep up to the top.
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2^nd chain from hook (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (24sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (30sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (36sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (42sts)
Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (48sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7st, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (54sts)
Switch to Color (A)
Rnd 10: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 27 times (54sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 6 times (60sts)
Rnd 12: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 30 times (60sts)
Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (60sts)
Rnd 14: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 14 times, sc in the next 14sts, [sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 9 times (60sts)
Rnd 15: Sc in each st around (60sts)
Rnd 16-23: [Repeat Rnd 14 and Rnd 15] 4 times (you will have: 4 rounds with bobbles and sc and 4 rounds with just sc, 60sts each round)
Rnd 24: Repeat Rnd 14 (60sts)
Begin stuffing and shaping at any time and continue to do so until finished.
Rnd 25: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next st] 20 times (40sts)
Rnd 26: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 20 times (40sts)
Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 3st, sc2tog] 8 times (32sts)
Rnd 28: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 16 times (32sts)
Rnd 29: [Sc2tog] 16 times (16sts)
Rnd 30: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 8 times (16sts)
Rnd 31: [Sc2tog] 8 times (8sts)
Rnd 32: Sc in the 1st st, bo in the next st, leave the remaining sts unworked. Sl st, Fasten off. Leave a tail to sew the hole closed, securing the last bobble you created over the hole.

Ears
in Color (B)
Make 2
Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2^nd chain from hook (4sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (8sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 4 times (12sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times (16sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next sc] 4 times (20sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times (24sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times (28sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around (28sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 4 times (32sts)
Rnds 10-19: Sc in each st around (32sts for 10 rows)
Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 4 times (28sts)
Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 4 times (24sts)
Rnd 22: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 4 times (20sts)
Rnd 23: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 4 times (16sts)
Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times (12sts)
Rnd 25: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
Sl st to the 1st st. Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the ears to the head.

Face
In Color (B)
Working in rows
We will be starting at the bottom of the face and working towards the top
Ch 19
Row 1: Sc in the back bar of the 2nd chain from the hook and in each st across (18sts)
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (18sts for 2 rows)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, Sc in the next 4sts, [2sc in the next st] 10 times, sc in the last 4sts (28sts)
Rows 5-7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (28sts for 3 rows)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 16sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (26sts)
Row 9: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 10sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in the next 4sts (22sts)
Row 10: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 4sts (20sts)
Rows 11-12: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (20sts for 2 rows)
Row 13: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 9sts (19sts)
Row 14: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (19sts)
Row 15: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in the next 15ts, sc2tog (17sts)
Sc around the entire edge of your face. When you get to the corner sc2tog taking one stitch from the top edge and one from the top of the corner that you are rounding. Decreasing this way made the face slightly rounder on the corners. I liked it better this way. At the end, sl st to the first st and fasten off. Leave a tail long enough for sewing the face to the body.

Tail
In Color (A)
Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2^nd chain from hook (4sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (8sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 4 times (8sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in the next st] 4 times (12sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in the next st, bo in the next st] 4 times (12sts)
Sl st to the 1st st. Fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing to the body.
Stuff the tail before attaching.

Feet
Make 4
In Color (B)
Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2^nd chain from hook (6sts)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around (12sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
Rnd 5: In BLO sc in each st around (24sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (24sts)
>Design Option: When I made the sheep I switched to Color (A) at this point, and I think that it looks great. However, were I to make this sheep again, I might consider just staying with Color (B) the whole time. You choose!
Rnd 7-8: In FLO sl st around (24sts for 2 rows)
Sl st to the 1st st. Fasten off. Leave a tail for sewing the feet to the body
Stuff before attaching to the body.

Assembly
With the face: Remember to add the safety eyes before attaching. I initially stuffed only the protruding portion of the muzzle. Then, before closing up the hole completely I added additional stuffing to obtain an overall shape that I was most happy with.
I highly recommend pinning all of your pieces together before sewing anything. This will help to ensure that you have a placement that you are happy with. Once you are satisfied with placement attach all the pieces with your tapestry needle.
Using Color (C) Add stitching to the nose portion if desired.

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