Amigurumi Free Crochet Moose Pattern

Materials
Size 4 worsted weight yarn (50g color of choice for shirt and pants; 50g light brown; small amount of dark brown, ivory and color of choice for bow/scarf)
3.5mm crochet hook
5mm crochet hook
12mm safety eyes
Scissors
Crochet or embroidery thread for eyelashes (optional)
Tapestry needle (I love the bent tips!)
Stuffing
Stitch markers (a piece of scrap yarn works great!)

Abbreviations – US Terminology
SC – Single crochet
SC INC – Sing crochet increase
INV DEC – Invisible decrease
HDC – Half double crochet
DC – Double crochet
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Rep – Repeat
For this pattern we will be working in the round, using a stitch marker at the beginning or end of each round will help to keep track of which round you are on. Slowly stuff as you go, you will want your amigurumi to be firm but not stretched.
We will start with the legs, which will then be joined to form the body. We use our 3.5mm crochet hook for each part below with the exception of the scarf.

Legs and Body
Make 2, starting with dark brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 6: SC in the back loops only (30)
Rounds 7-8: SC around (30)
Round 9: SC in the first 9 sts, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 9 sts (24)
Round 10: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 6 sts (18)
Change to pant color
Rounds 11-23: SC around (18)
Fasten off on the first leg only. At the end of round 23 on the 2nd leg complete a SC in each of the next 7 stitches (this will line up our feet to be straight when we join).
Round 24: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC (make sure that both feet are facing the same direction), SC in the remaining stitches around the leg. When you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains again. You will have SC on both sides of the chain now, this completes your join and is where your next round will start. (42)
Joining the legs can be the hardest part of the pattern but once you have it down you’ll fly through this step each time! The chain of 3 acts as a bridge to connect the two legs into one piece.
Rounds 25-30: SC around (42)
Change to shirt color
Round 31: SC around (42)
Round 32: SC in the back loops only (42)
Rounds 33-41: SC around (42)
Round 42: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)
Round 43: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 44: SC around (30)
Change to light brown
Round 45: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)
Rounds 46-48: SC around (24)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Ruffled Edge (For Millie)
Holding Millie with her feet away from you and neck towards you attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 32. (For a cleaner look, attach at the back of the body.)
Round 1: Ch 1, 2DC in the same stitch and in each st around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (84)
Rounds 2-3: Ch 1, DC in each st around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (84)
Fasten off and weave in ends

Nose
With light brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)
Rounds 6-9: SC around (30)
Round 10: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Head
With light brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 6: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)
Round 7: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)
Round 8: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)
Round 9: SC in the first 7 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (54)
Rounds 10-18: SC around (54)
Note: Here is where we will add the eyes and nose before we start closing the head.
Insert the eyes between rounds 15 and 16, 8 stitches apart. Feel free to add eyelashes before securing.
Sew the nose centered between the eyes, stuffing as you go.
Round 19: SC in the first 7 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48)
Round 20: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)
Round 21: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)
Round 22: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)
Round 23: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)
Continue to stuff your head firmly
Round 24: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 25: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)
Round 26: INV DEC around (6)
Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.

Ears
Make 2 with light brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st around (12)
Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)
Rounds 4-5: SC around (18)
Round 6: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)
Rounds 7-8: SC around (12)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Using part of the tail fold the ear in half and sew across the top to create a fold in the ear. Be sure to leave enough tail to use for sewing onto the head.

Antlers
Make 2 with ivory
Note: I did not stuff my antlers, each antler will consist of two pieces joined together. Very similar to the method used to join the legs earlier in the pattern.
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Rounds 3-6: SC around (12)
Fasten off and make one more piece by repeating rounds 1-6, do not fasten off on the 2nd piece.
Round 7: We will join these two pieces and continue the antler. Join with a SC to the first piece and SC around both pieces. (We will not be using a chain to join as we did with the legs.)
Round 8: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)
Round 9: SC around (18)
Round 10: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)
Rounds 11-12: SC around (12)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. This completes one antler, repeat rounds 1-12 for the second antler.

Bow (For Millie)
Working in a magic circle make 4DC, slip stitch, 4DC an slip stitch again. Pull your string tight and wrap it around the middle of the bow 3-4 times. Tie/secure in the back and cut your string leaving a long section to sew with.

Arms
Make 2 lightly stuffing at the bottom
With dark brown
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st around (12)
Round 3: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (15)
Rounds 4-5: SC around (15)
Round 6: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, rep around (10)
Change to shirt color
Rounds 7-20: SC around (10)
At the end of round 20 pinch the arm flat and make 5 SC across the top to close, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Scarf
With color of choice and 5mm hook, chain 60
Row 1: HDC in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain across (59)
Rows 2-3: HDC across (59)
Fasten off and weave in ends

Assembling the Head
1. Sew the antlers onto the head starting at the 5th round and ending at the 9th round on each side.
2. Sew the ears on just below the antlers.
3. If you are making Millie attach your bow onto the desired side.

Final Assembly
1. Sew the head onto the body, making sure to have the facial features centered. Be sure to add stuffing as you go to keep the neck firm.
2. Next, sew the arms onto the body centered with the head at round 44.
3. If you are making Miles fold or tie your scarf around the neck.
Congratulations
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